Step 1: Source Parts
The first scooter has rusted away and is completely un-ridable. It is a 36V machine.
The second is a 24V model, with heavily sulfated battery packs. Ridable, if you can get it power
Charger: I picked up a battery charger from harbor freight for other projects -- it cost me $10
That's all that's really needed -- lets get to it.
Step 2: Gut Scooters
Important things to mark on the motor controller
- Power Switch
- Brake Switch (to kill motor while braking)
- Hall effect sensor (throttle) -- this has three wires B-R-Gr
- Any other accessories (such as a horn or running lights)
Step 3: Charge Batteries
Step 4: Wire Up Good Scooter
If Not - check the other side of the connector on the other scooter. Then remove the pins from the connector and do a Frankenstein swap. The pins usually have a small tap inside - push it to the side with a small screw driver, then pull the wire/pin out.
Sometimes, there's no remedying it. In cases like these -- you can jam the pin on the wire into the connector, then secure with tape. Be sure they won't short inside the tape as these motor controllers are rather sensitive :/
You absolutely need to connect the following items
1. Hall Effect Throttle
For safety you should also connect the brake switch.
Step 5: The Power Switch
The power switch is open while off, and closed when on. My solution was to stick a metal screwdriver inside, short the pins and tape it on. Not elegant at all - but utility is the idea.
Step 6: Motor
The 36V motor did in fact mate with the motor mount on the scooter. However, the shaft offset is different throwing the chain out of alignment.
Solution -- make an adapter plate....
Dirty Solution -- use the 24V spec'd motor
The big question was weather or not the 24V motor would handle the new voltage and amperage....
Step 7: Power on and Fly!
When you wire everything together -- connect the battery second to last, and the power switch last. It's also probably a good idea to do a "dry run"-- without the motor connected to the rear wheel (VIA chain).
Before powering on, make sure all connections are tight -- and insulated. The last thing you want is to accidentally short something.
Once your dry run is successful -- load everything into the scooter. I taped on my ammeter so I could monitor current flow
It's faster -- but it was a little slow to accelerate. My front tire has a leak, that keeps getting bigger. So that didn't help. But truly, much faster than the 24V variant I was running before :D
Proof of concept:
1. 24V motor appear to take the extra strain - likely shortening their expected lifetime
2. Gel Cells aren't too sensitive to Charging at 1.5A (just make sure the temps stay low)
3. This can be done within a few hours (except charge time - you'll want a bit longer)
Yes, I've been bit by eFever... I've always liked it, it's just reaching critical mass methinks.