For the rest of you with a large refrigerator.... I, and my partner in crime have something cooking for you. But, it's going to take a month or so as I want data showing this big refrigerator modification works. As you read meters are whizzing and collecting :)
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Also the reason for letting it sit is not so it doesn't run out of oil, but because if the lines get full of oil (as it's so much thicker then the gas) it could clog the expansion valve, and that could damage the compressor.
The small compressor on a fridge hold abought half a litter of (usually mineral) oil.
r12 and r22 systems use mineral oil, r12 was banned in 1995, but r22 is still used (supposed to be phased out by 2020), but most companies favor r134a and it uses peg oil.
Have you posted anything further in relation to that?
thanks for your great contribution.
Here's what I've learned.... You need a measuring device - like a Kill-a-Watt or similar.
1. Monitor power consumption during normal use - upright. Do this for at least a week to get smoother and potentially more reliable data (longer is better)
2. Reset the measurement and repeat for the same amount of time, but this time empty the fridge and throw in a 1 or 2 gallon jugs of water (to make up for missing volume) and DO NOT open the door.
Compare the consumption for these two tests.
At the end of the day, for this mini fridge - there was no difference :( It always consumed a LOT of power (nearly 1.5KwHrs/day - the same as our main apartment big fridge!)
My reasoning as to why this is the case? Thermal mass. Air doesn't have much mass compared to the rest of the cold objects and as a result doesn't carry much of the "coolness." For example, if there's .25 pounds of air* in the fridge, and 75 pounds of food and cold refrigerator mass, the air in that fridge makes up 0.5% of the chilled mass.... And that doesn't even take into consideration actual thermal mass (which is material dependent).
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To answer your other question
Th condenser is in the skin ;) Should you ever take one apart - and I don't recommend it :p You'll find copper tubing behind the outside metal skin... Super inefficient - but extremely cost effective from an mfr perspective :p
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At the end of the day, these small refrigerators aren't very energy efficient (your measurements may vary) :p
Can this still be done with what I got ?
As it turns out, it really doesn't matter in this modification - just as long as the compressor is upright during operation....
Why?
Looking at the orientation of the evaporator (and condenser) - gravity isn't going to allow anything to get back into the casing...
Oil shouldn't be able to get out of the HP side... and most compressors have a muffler connected to the suction inlet - so I'm not worried :) Even if some does escape via the suction side, it's going to get pulled through fairly quickly :)
This is mind, I didn't wait to fire up this refrigerator - and the compressor worked quite well until I stopped using it due to it being superfluous :)
it only took 5 minutes to change the thermostat over and we didnt have to modify anything just swapped the thermostat as it looked the same as the thermostat we pulled out , we looked at other ways to do a freezer into a fridge conversion and this was by far the easiest way
we bought it off freezer2fridge in Australia
http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Turn-a-Freezer-into-a-Fridge-Thermostat-Kegerator-Solar_W0QQitemZ160372777342QQcmdZViewItemQQptZAU_Home_Appliances?hash=item2556f6617e
Great efficiency for the chest frig!
Cheers, zipperboy
I've considered adding a fan to the compressor area - to blow off some heat as it does get rather toasty.
it recommended keeping the fridge a certain distance from any other objects for this purpose.
I've taken apart refrigerators like this -- and found that the condenser is located on the top and sides of the refrigerator. And what really sucks is that the condenser is just copper tubing - not very efficient from a heat transfer standpoint. BUT, putting these things back together after taking them apart is pretty much impossible - so modification isn't a viable option :/
Here's a nice write up on heat transfer with the introduction of fins - [http://www.tech.plym.ac.uk%2Fsme%2FTHER205-web%2FHeatxs3-fins.PDF&ei=GL_NSLeSGJXmvQWl64DVAw&usg=AFQjCNFgYd7qKSsMrJq0PLBx993l4A-JZQ&sig2=Dlc-7rUPFvXDleahLxqwbg PDF Link].
All that and you should really turn caps lock off ;)
Mini fridge was tested by loading with 18, 500ml bottles of water and running fridge for about 24 hours prior to test. Mini fridge was opened maybe once or twice during test. Full sized fridge contained my food and was opened a reasonable amount of time during the day. No A/C, mean temps for both days was about 76 °F
Although the smaller fridge did not use as much power, it used almost 80% as much as the full-sized one. It's very likely to match the larger one when it is used like a main fridge and opened throughout the day and used to pre-chill room temperature items. It's also worth noting that the mini-fridge is less than a third the size.
The larger fridge (that came with the house) is on the bottom of the energy efficency scale, but I think I calculated that for a new energy efficient fridge would have a break-even point of several decades.
trebuchet03, how's the hacked fridge doing?