How to Debeep Things

Step 5: Finding and Disabling the Buzzer

Lucky for us, Electrolux has good schematics online, and we mark the document with our own red arrows to show the culprit.  Archer was able to identify PART #14, the "Buzzer", and then he knew where to look in the device.  

He removed the buzzer by pulling off the electrical lead from the component.  These devices are made to slip on and off.  

Comments

[wbsbadboy]

A word of caution here.
I work on line as an appliance repair consultant and have had my share of people asking how they can disable their appliances buzzer. For the most part they are easy to kill, but there are some models that if you disable the buzzer you disable the control board(s). The manufacturer in its infinite wisdom includes the buzzers into the safety circuitry. If removed the resistance of the circuit changes and the system reads it as a fault in the safety features. Of course the makers don't want any law suits because of failed safety features so it disables the whole unit with an error code flashing on one of the indicator lights, or showing on the readout. As the makers don't think that someone would deliberately disable the buzzer the error code isn't listed in the tech manuals, and I have no way of telling the customer what it means. That in turn makes me look pretty 5to0piD.
Please folks, don't make me, or my fellow appliance techs look stupid. Check with the manufacturer before you disable the buzzers on your appliance.
Thank you!!

[pastorboy0]

You could always figure out the impedance of the buzzer and replace it with an equivalent resistor, too, so as not to disrupt anything.

[lifeisformakingthings]

I was really curious about that, wbsbadboy. Thanks! I was hoping someone with a deeper understanding would weigh in. It makes sense that some circuits would notice when a voltage is applied to the buzzer but no load results. So some generate an error code. Interesting.

With my computer UPS, I saved the buzzer just in case I had accidentally bricked the product and had to solder it back in. But it's been fine.

People could always try it with an appliance, and if you get a malfunction, reverse course to get things back in order. If all else fails, I think the electrical tape solution applied on top of the buzzer might be the next best thing.

[wbsbadboy]

The problems are mostly with the newer style peizos. They are flat and are cold soldered to the board. Removing and replaceing them without affecting the ohms value is tricky to say the least. The boards with the speakers that look like an electret mic can be a problem but for the most part arn't. The ones I have seen that have problems are the higher end units, Bosch, Meile, Thermador, LG, and a smattering of the popular brands like Maytag, Frigidair, Whirlpool, etc.
One concern that should be mentioned here also is that Sears appliances are all made by someone else. So if someone says that Kenmores are ok to remove the speaker they need to determine who made their unit before the remove anything.
As for the tape trick, I prefer a drop of molten glue stick right in the lil hole myself. Two if it is still loud.
Best, Smitty

[redcore4]

presumably you could measure the resistance of the buzzer and solder in an equivalent resistor, maybe with an LED to make a visual safety aid, that would (silently) fulfil the same purpose as the buzzer but not disrupt the safety circuit?

[Michael_oz]

Or you could leave the buzzer but pot it in epoxy, you would probably get a dim beep which could be useful.

The stronger the epoxy the less sound it would conduct (I think...ridged to stop the vibrations? or would it conduct the vibrations? or soft to absorb them?) Hell I don't know...