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There's no shortage of fidget spinners on the internet, but here's an instructable to show you how to design your own in Fusion 360.

I'll be leading 3 new webinar classes related to this, and two new projects that I'll be posting soon. In these webinars, you will learn more Fusion 360 features like advanced mechanical assemblies (meaning two or more joints interacting) and rendering. Can't wait until lesson 1? Check out the recordings of the previous webinars: learn to design a wax stamp and bottle lock.

Lesson 1: Fidget Spinner This is a simple project that uses three 3D-printed parts and a bearing from McMaster-Carr. You'll learn how to use the McMaster-Carr part browser, basic 3D modeling, and how to make mechanical joints.

March 15th , 9 - 10 p.m. EST - Register

Step 1: Modeling Demo + Files

If you're new to Fusion 360, please sign up for my 3D Printing Class to get crash course in using the program. Fusion is free with an educational or hobbyist license, and get details for installing and getting a free license in Lesson 2 of the class linked above.

This video is step-by step demo (with no audio) of me modeling the spinner. The rest of the instructable has text and images explaining what I'm doing in each step.

If you just want to print your own or modify the one I made, I've attached STL files (ready to print) and an F3D archive file that you can import into Fusion.

<p>I am THRILLED that I was able to finish this! I followed the webinar video instructions, one small moment at a time, then tried it on Fusion 360, then looked at the instructions again, then... I restarted after deciding to buy a bearing first, here where we don't have inches. The hardest part was the arc, for some reason. Thanks for the helpful instructions, Jonathan! I can't wait to design more things.</p><p> I printed it with PVA water soluble supports. I hammered the bearing in with a piece of wood over it, but got a few little cracks. Did I have incorrect dimensions? I imported my bearing from the McMaster-Carr component page, using its number &quot;6001Z&quot;. With the top and bottom off, it rotates a little bit with each flick. Adding the top and bottom slows it more. Should I put some sort of grease or oil into the bearing? The cap on the top also falls off, but if I put that cap on the bottom, the spinning is even less. Any helpful hints from folks for me? :-)</p>
<p>Looks like you're getting the hang of it! More expensive bearings have lubricant encased in them already, so that's one way to solve it. The vice is definitely a good idea, but if you take my <a href="https://www.instructables.com/class/3D-Printing-Class/" target="_blank">3D Printing Class</a>, you'll learn about tolerances- a concept that helps you ensure that parts fit together properly.</p>
<p>Got it! First, use a vise instead of a hammer to insert the bearing. That gets the bearing in all the way, so the cap doesn't fall off. Second, my sewing machine oil made it spin freely. It's so much fun to just sit there fidgeting!</p>
<p>Question (raising hand): In your experience is it possible to embed and item in the 3D print while it's printing? I was thinking of designing a void into the file which I could add a ball bearing but during the printing process. I would like avoid having to make two halves or pockets which will have to be capped after the fact.</p><p>Question aside and praises coming forward; minimal design ornamentation, tri-symmetric profile, and the filleted edges make it almost hypnotic to look at while spinning at lower speeds. A simple and timeless design... that's what's up.</p>
<p>I've done that quite a bit adding nuts to make threaded holes. The part your adding must slip in easily so you don't disturb the print. Ideally you program a pause at the appropriate layer height and have it move the extruder out of your way. It is easy to do this with a gcode machine, not so easy with a lot of Makerbots which run on x3g. After the insert is properly seated you manually take the machine out of pause and it picks up where it left off. </p>
<p>Thanks for the suggestion, I did have a concern with fitting something in the void accurately also. So if i'm processing this right, generally plastic filament should not have any issue adhering to already printed objects made of the same material? I could make two different files and as long as the &quot;base&quot; doesn't move and I can get it to start at the coorect elevation, the second file would start and still look as if it was a single job. </p>
<p>It would be possible to make two objects and start the second one at the z-height where the first one ends. This is pretty easy to do in Simplify3d and is a common practice when you want to change print settings (shells/infill/etc) for different parts of the model. The problem is that the printer doesn't, by default, pause between the prints. You could slice and run them as separate jobs, stopping the printer between them so you could insert the bearing at your leisure and then start the second print but you would have to hack the second print's gcode so it didn't home the z-axis when it started or else you might crash into your existing print. Inserting a pause in the gcode is easier. For Makerbots and other machines which don't take gcode you can manually pause the machine from control panel. The extruder is sometimes in the way but you can probably make it work.</p>
<p>The filament shouldn't have a problem adhering to cooled filament- it's effectively cooled as soon as it's laid down, so it's already happening. I don't know the details about how to <em>pause <a href="http://" target="_blank"></a><a href="http://" target="_blank"></a></em>a print and resume once a part is inserted. This forum post might be helpful: <a href="https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2588" target="_blank">https://forum.simplify3d.com/viewtopic.php?f=8&t=2588</a></p>
<p><a href="https://www.instructables.com/member/shapespeare">shapespeare</a> is right on, listen to him. Thanks for the compliments!</p>
<p>This looks cool. Nice take on the spinner.</p>
<p>love it</p>

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Bio: I'm a full-time Designer at the Instructables Design Studio (best job ever). My background is in residential architecture, film set design, film animatronics, media ... More »
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