Step 4: Starting Off

The best place to try this is in an empty parking lot with very flat and level ground and plenty of room around the car. You should have somebody who knows how to drive the car bring you to a location like this. When you first sit in the driver's seat the engine should be off with the shift knob in neutral and the handbrake engaged. It's now time....

With your left foot, press the clutch pedal in all the way. Turn the ignition key clockwise all the way to "start" and hold for about one second until the the engine turns over. Release the key. If the shift knob is still in neutral you may release the clutch pedal at this time.

Have a look at the tachometer and take note of the RPM readout. It should be holding steady at around 700 to 1000 RPM, depending on the car.

Use your right foot to press and hold the brake pedal. Grasp the handbrake and pull up slightly while pressing the button with your thumb. When the button goes in, push the handbrake all the way down. Release the brake pedal and check to see if the car rolls. If the car stays put you can leave the pedal alone. If the car rolls you should find another spot.

Use your left foot to press and hold the clutch pedal all the way in.

Use your right hand to move the shift knob from neutral to first gear.

Slowly start to release the clutch pedal. At a certain point you will feel a vibration in the pedal and will see the RPM decrease slightly. This is the friction point where the clutch disc and the flywheel make first contact. The car may also start to creep forward. When you come to this point, don't release the clutch pedal any more.

Press the clutch pedal all the way in again and press the brake pedal to stop the car if necessary. Practice the previous step until you can quickly release the clutch pedal up to the friction point and hold it there. If you stall the engine, you must press the clutch pedal in all the way and turn the key.

Now lets get down to business. It's time to get the car moving up to a significant speed. To get the car moving, you're going to have to give it a little shot of gas. You should aim for an engine speed of about 1500 RPM when you reach the friction point. That means you'll have to press down on the gas pedal while releasing the clutch pedal at the same time.

Press the gas pedal in a TINY BIT while releasing the clutch to the friction point at the same time. This time the car will start moving forward when the friction point is reached. Hold the gas pedal where it is while you slowly release the clutch pedal out all the way.

Once the clutch pedal is out all the way and the car is moving you have just made a mockery of the hardest part of driving a standard shift... Starting off from a dead stop.

Now feel free to drive the car around a little bit. Accelerate a bit until the engine starts to make a lot of noise. As long as your speed stays between 10 and 30 KPH it should be just like driving an automatic (by that I mean you do not have to operate the clutch or change gears).

To come to a complete stop, use the brake pedal to slow down until your speed reaches zero. Before the car stops, you must press and hold the clutch pedal all the way. Repeat the previous two steps until you can confidently start off from a complete stop.

To park the car, move the shift knob into the neutral position and engage the handbrake by pulling it up all the way.

I actually lied a bit about the hardest part about driving a standard. The hardest part is to start off from a dead stop while rolling backwards down a hill. You have to find the friction point quickly because the whole time you're looking for it you'll be rolling backwards...possibly into the car behind you. Also, a bigger shot of gas is needed while you are releasing the clutch pedal past the friction point. Practice makes perfect...you should probably try this in a safe spot before you attempt it in traffic.

I have owned a few motorbikes and driven many different types of tractors and off-road vehicles, however I've only had 2 or 3 manual vehicles on the road for maybe not more than 100 trips on the road( I'm far from an expert- ex is a has been a spert is something that ran down your daddies leg) I would be interested in reading someone talk about how using the brake is important for the vehicles driving behind you and by keeping the vehicle in the appropriate gear you should be able to brake the vehicle without stalling it in any situation. Also I believe most new vehicles since about 1995 or so have some sort of signal telling you what gear to be in and will override your bad shifting and keep the vehicle running. I would also add that no more than one out of 10000 drivers know how to properly drive a manual trans in winter stop and go traffic or on dark highway speed roads so the people behind you know what you are doing. You down shift so that you are driving in a safe manner NOT to slow down the vehicle, that's what the break is for. One more thing a 20 year old trained race car driver might be able to take off faster than an auto at a light . But your average fat old driver..... Forget about it no matter what your driving. Cheers.
<p>hey guys i need help , got my license 5mnths ago bt since then havnt driven a car , Im nw finding t difficult to upshift from 2 to 3 and 80% of the time i end up putting it in gear 5 and the car makes an uncomfortable noise.</p>
<p>Don't try to force it from 2 to 3. The knob will generally find its way to the center when you shift from 2. Then you can simply just shift forward to 3.</p>
<p>If the engine is off, the car is supposed to be parked in gear (any gear will do, but preferably 1st or reverse since they have the most resistance) with the handbrake up. You can't always trust just the handbrake.</p>
<p>Love the opening paragraph , lol.</p><p>But i disagree with the point that one should know how to drive an automatic transmission car before manual transmission car .</p><p>I personally trained myself on a manual transmission car and then i moved to automatic transmission and i felt it very easy to learn automated transmission car driving.</p><br> <a href="http://ae.citibann.com/p/light-vehicle-driver-86959" rel="nofollow">http://ae.citibann.com/p/light-vehicle-driver-8695...</a><br>Light<br> Vehicle Driver - Citibann.com
<em>&quot;I guess the first thing you should do when learning a manual transmission is to learn how to drive an automatic transmission. &quot;</em><br><br>Nope.<br><br>In the UK, if you learn on an automatic, you are not allowed to drive a manual until you have taken another test.<br><br>Learning on a manual gives you a much better feel for the way a car responds in different conditions. Learning an automatic first creates a whole set of reflexes and responses that simply do not work in a manual car. Even things as simple as braking a manual car with automatic-car reflexes are far harder.<br><br>(British breakdown companies around airports are constantly having to deal with US visitors who have hired a manual car and and simply cannot cope because there are too many controls to think about at once - burned-out clutches and gear-boxes, over-heated engines, the works.)
Thank you for your comment but I have to strongly disagree. Regardless of the rules in the UK, you are much better off learning how to drive a manual when you're already framiliar with driving in general. Being able to change your &quot;automatic habits&quot; while in a standard is just part of learning. All cars are different anyways and the ability to get used to changes is required of all drivers.<br>Can you imagine not being able to cope with all of the controls at once while at the same time driving through a large busy intersection for the first time and not knowing where to go or whether to take or to yield? It's an accident waiting to happen whereas a person who is already framiliar with driving in an automatic can at least navigate the intersection safely; the burned out clutch is another story.
I agree with Kiteman, why start learning on an automatic first, and then forget what you learned to learn everything again on a manual? Managing the gearbox is by far the most complicated thing when learning. Adding a steering wheel and two pedals won't change much. So dont lose time learning on an automatic, start immediatly with a manual. Almost everything has to be done differently on a manual, being perfectly comfortable with the gearbox while being able to manage all the other commands, and the trafic, takes lot's of practice.<br>Of course the learning curve is not the same, and you must avoid trafic at the beginning.<br>In France (and probably in whole Europe), everybody learns on a manual, and everybody manage to get its driving licence at age 18, so its feasable :-)
I don't see what there is to forget about when you go from automatic to manual. I own two cars, one automatic and one manual and both of them I drive on a daily basis. I have no problems driving either. It's more or less the same thing but you're adding a new task of operating the transmission while driving. It's almost as if by going from automatic to manual you're learning to walk before you run. I'm not saying it's beyond human ability to learn how to drive on a manual first but I think an automatic first makes learning a manual easier because you only have to focus on one new skill at a time, first how to navigate busy streets and intersections and second, how to operate the transmission. Here in North America, the vast majority of cars are automatics, so most young drivers who have to learn on their parent's cars have no choice but to drive an automatic first anyways. Finally, an ideal driver would know how to drive both an automatic and manual, but using your logic it would also be wrong to learn on a manual first and then on an automatic second. Thanks for your comment.
Yakeru says:<br>What you say makes sense. But I'm afraid that somebody who is used to an automatic car, in case of emergency, will press on the brakes as hard as he can, and simply forget to shift the gears down or press on the clutch ... and wont stop at all...<br>When you are used to something and learning something new, it takes lots of time to change your habits. Moreover, old reflexes often comes back when facing unusual circmstances.<br>If ou are used to a manual car and you are loocking for the clutch pedal, during one second before you realize that ther is no pedal, while braking, it is not really dangerous.<br>But when you are used to an automatic, and you forget to change gear while breaking on a manual car, that can be dramatic...<br>Nothing that you learned on a manual could be dangerous on an automatic, the contrary is not necessarily true...<br>Thats why I believe that begining with a manual car, to acquire the more complex reflexes immediatly, is ideal, when you have the choice :-)
When you slam on the brakes in a manual without pressing the clutch pedal or changing gears the engine will stall out but the car will come to a stop just as fast as when you remember press the clutch. It has to be that way; the one and only control needed to stop a car is the brake pedal or else the car wouldn't be legal on the road. Having to restarting motor is another story.<br>I'm sorry but I just can't see the danger caused by these automatic &quot;habits&quot; that you can &quot;carry over&quot; to a manual. Maybe it's because nether I nor anybody I know that can drive a manual has ever experienced them.<br>The difference between an automatic and a manual is really small, I mean it really is. It's the same thing as borrowing your friends car and the brakes or the gas pedal might be a bit more touchy or a bit more soft than yours. Or maybe it handles a bit differently... but you get used to it. And no matter what the car is like, the gas pedal makes you go, the brakes make you stop and the steering wheel makes you turn. Your driving instincts will do the rest.<br>Thanks for commenting.
Mashing on <em>just</em> the brake pedal in a manual car gives you a stopping distance FAR longer than brake+clutch.<br><br>British garages around airports are full of cars trashed by American tourists who cannot cope with that extra pedal and the peculiar stick thing poking up through the floor.<br><br>(I don't know anybody who died in a plane wreck - does that mean it never happens?)
&quot;Mashing on just the brake pedal in a manual car gives you a stopping distance FAR longer than brake+clutch.&quot;<br> <br> Not true and contradicts the UK's own DSA advice on the matter. In an emergency brake as hard as you can and only clutch at the end to prevent stalling unless your cars manufacturer specifically advises otherwise because of a poor ABS algorythm.<br> <br> De-clutching means the loss of engine braking, delayed response time, potential destability from the differential disengaging and prevents engine inertia (different force to engine braking) assisting in preventing rear lockup and further destability.&nbsp;<br> <br> Lack of experience on any form of machinery is of course dangerous, whether ramping up a skill set via less complicated machines is a safer approach than being trained from the outset on the more complicated device is open to debate, the greater issue is more the practice of UK hire companies agreeing to lease manual cars to people who don't hold manual licenses.<br> <br> Regardless of that, whilst the internet is a great place for expanding theories, when it comes to something like emergency braking procedures in an instructable aimed at learner drivers, I'd suggest presenting unproven personal opinions on the matter as opinions not facts.
<p>My UK built manual car (MG ZS180) has an Engine Control Unit (ECU) that does its best to prevent stalling. So if you brake without declutching it will turn up the power (regardless of your accelerator position) as it gets down to low rpm. This will undoubtedly increase your braking distance (for a given brake pressure) if you don't declutch fairly early.<br><br>The idea that declutching somehow disables the differential is sheer nonsense. And the idea that engine braking is a desirable thing in a quick stop is ridiculous - the brake balance between front and rear is carefully optimised, and adding a variable extra element to the driven wheels just upsets that balance and risks a lock up, losing direction control as well.<br><br>One final point - it may be useful to drive away immediately after the emergency stop, to clear the lane, or drive round an obstruction before being hit from behind. A stalled engine is not at all helpful. </p>
Unproven, except by over a quarter of a century of driving experience, taught to drive by a rally driver, no &quot;proper&quot; accident since my first year driving.
I'm sure the DSA will be very glad to hear from you then. Those multimillion dollar studies they're currently using to prove the best methods are an uneccessary burden on their budget if they could just use 25 years of general driving experience and a rally course as the basis for their emergency driving publications.<br> <br> I've pointed out that your contradicting official govenment safety advice from your area and described four effects that have been internationally proven and documented, but even better than me repeating myself, seeing as you've been on a rally course what did the instructor say about clutching whilst at threshold grip? If it went anything along the lines of what I used to teach my students (I was a circuit instructor not rally, but there's quite a lot of crossover) it would have gone something like unless your deliberately trying to destabilise your car... dont. That is also the reason why you dont see the BTCC and F1 drivers holding the clutch in whilst downshifting in their braking zone, believe me if just riding the clutch through the braking zone was faster and safer we'd do it.<br> <br> I'm not interested in turning this into yet another debate on the internet, and I believe I've written enough and provided enough reputable sources for someone reading these comments to make an informed decision or investigate further for themselves, so I'm gonna finish up by saying as a widely respected employee and contributor of Instructables, commenting on emergency braking techniques in an instructable aimed at learner drivers, to an audience the majority of whom will be at some point in charge of a car on a public motorway, think very very hard about whether the information your presenting should be worded as your personal opinion or as a proven fact coming from an employee of this website.
I'm not an employee, and that &quot;official advice&quot; does not appear to have reached the people who administer the driving test - if you do not hit the clutch before the brake during the emergency stop test, you can fail your test.<br><br>(Are you aware that much of your advice only counts for rear-wheel drive cars? And that most manual cars are front-wheel drive? I didn't think so.)
One more thing is, you don't know the real reason why those cars crashed because you weren't there, you can only speculate. Just because you assume that they couldn't handle the transmission doesen't make it true. I would guess that some bad local drivers and the sudden change to driving on the &quot;wrong&quot; side of the road and &quot;wrong&quot; side of the car had something to do with at least some of the crashes.
I didn't say crashed, I said <em>trashed</em>, and I do know because I've spoken to the men who make their living fixing the mess - cars driven for a full day in first gear, burning out the gear-box and over-heating the engine are typical.
Alright I apoligize I misunderstood you. However, what you're speaking of is a matter of learning on an automatic and then attempting to drive a standard without ever learning on one in the first place.<br>It's a different situation when you learn on an automatic first and then learn on a manual second eventually becoming skilled at operating both types of cars. If every American did that before coming to the UK you would never see another burned out clutch from one of them again.<br>I'm a Canadian by the way, just in case you thought I was American.<br>
That may be true but once you've learned how to drive the manual you would indeed remember to press in on the clutch like it was second nature, even if you learned on an automatic first. Thats the beauty of learning, it changes your behaviour and allows you to do things you couldn't have before.
I do agree that learning to drive, and becoming familiar with the rules of the road, the flow of traffic, etc. allows you to focus on driving the car specifically, thus somewhat simplifying the learning process. However, if one learns to drive with a standard transmission in an area where traffic rules aren't as likely to become a problem (i.e. a parking lot), then learning the rules of the road is simplified because you aren't trying to learn how to use the car... I think ultimately it's one of those &quot;6 of one, half-dozen (not baker's dozen) of the other&quot;.
<p>Another good thing with a manual transmission: If you ever end up stopped on a railroad crossing and can't start your engine, just pop the gear to first or reverse (whichever side of the railroad is closer) and run the starter engine. It has enough power to move the car the necessary critical meters. I don't think you can do that with an automatic either.</p>
<p>It's very misleading to say that manual transmissions don't need maintenance. Although it's true that they need it much less often than automatics, oil change is still an important regular maintenance for prolonging the service life of your gearbox. Also don't neglect your rear differential, if you have one. The only moving part in your car that doesn't need oil is the clutch. And if it's got oil, it wants fresh one at some point.</p>
<p>good one...</p>
okay so my friend also have echo and the gearshifting need to be quick in 1st 2nd 3th... and he try driving on his dad (Holden Commodore) the 1st gear go up to 60kph with 2500RPM and 2nd up to 70,80kph with no problem so changing gear with the speedometer is not my option but I prefer changing when the engine is in 2000rpm but if in the hill area might be about 3000rpm but as a car you got..... cheer...
this comment is more about driving experience than driving skills. say when waiting for a gap to turn left, this does not require any drag racing clutch technique. instead, it is 90 percent planning. I generally do a gentle launch going straight before a gap opens up. when after the first car passes by, and only if my foot is completely off of the clutch pedal, I turn the wheel and lay on the gas to go between the gap. in no circumstance would I turn the wheel while still releasing the clutch as there is a good chance to stall in the path of a bus.
This is a great technique whenever the opportunity presents itself but unfortunately it rarely does in moderate to heavy traffic. Even in light traffic whenever one finds oneself in the downtown area or during the winter, the view down the street is impeded by buildings or snow banks, respectively. You really have to edge up into the intersection to see and that leaves very little space for a slow takeoff. <br>Regardless of how often a fast takeoff is necessary if someone is driving a manual through public streets they better know how to do it or they might eventually end up in a heap of twisted metal. It's best to learn right from the first time ever sitting in a manual car by getting on that gas pedal as they release the clutch. Afterwards experience will allow them to drive more gently and economically. At least, that's how it was for me. <br>Thanks again for your comments.
I agree with adding gas while bringing out the clutch from the friction point, but your instructable said to add gas as the clutch goes the friction point. Those are two different techniques. Also, keeping the rev low is not the same as a slow start. there were many times when I had the clutch at the friction point, wheels rolling, while the car next to me just sat there with its engine revving. besides, keeping your rev low doesn't mean treading lightly on the gas. it means adding as much gas as appropriate while letting out the clutch to keep the engine from revving too high from idle. it is a delicate balance between letting your rev get too high (&gt; 1.2k rpm) and stalling
Well then we agree on most points. While I was driving today I was taking note of what I was doing and indeed the tachometer readout was much less than 1500 rpm. It's a lot different actually driving the car than it is to sit on the computer typing out instructions. In fact a good, quick and smooth start requires only about 100-200 rpm over idle. Nevertheless, getting going in a reasonable amount of time does require SOME use of the gas pedal, the specific conditions dictate exactly how much. My Volkswagen Golf is only a couple of months old and has a diesel engine that can produce more than 250 ft-lbs of torque. Even that car takes forever to get going with the clutch only. If I were turning out into a busy expressway from a side street with the clutch only I'd be asking for someone to smack into me.<br> As this instructable is aimed at beginners I figured I would write about a good beginner's technique for bringing the clutch through the friction point. Having a little extra rpm's while the clutch is being engaged would be helpful in preventing a stallout. As they get better at clutch control they can ease back on the throttle. Perhaps I shouldn't have assigned a numerical value since it's different for every vehicle.<br> The car I learned on, and drove for the first two years after I got my license didn't even have a tachometer. I had no idea what the engine speed was I went by the noise of the engine and the feel of the car.
this is the reason why I don't let any one drive my car except for my wife. you don't need to add gas before the clutch is at the friction point. even then, you need to release the clutch to keep the rev low, close to idle. for a car such as the echo, 1k was enough. anything more than that just unnecessarily wear on the clutch. there were times when I had to use 1.5k of rev to start-when starting on the steepest hill in San Francisco. after 150k miles, I sold my xB, essentially a box shape echo, with the factory' s clutch.
I didn't say anything about applying the gas pedal before reaching the friction point. What I did recomend was feathering the throttle slightly while bringing the clutch out from the friction point. I know you don't HAVE to do this but it gets you going quick enough for heavy city traffic. If you don't do this then good for you but I'm glad I'll never be stuck behind you waiting for you to get going on a green light. My Echo has 175 000 hard driven kilometers. Most of it's use over the last three years was hauling heavy building materials for my house across a city well known for it's treacherous driving conditions.The factory clutch is still fine. Thank you for your comments. <br>
Check out my intractable!!!
Thank you for your quick answer <br/> Always appreciated <br/>I am now following u
Very cool thank you for this<br/>Do u know if it is basically the same thing on a 4 wheeler? :) thank you
Hi, I don't have much experience on 4 wheelers but I think the general idea is the same. The main difference is that you select gears with a foot operated lever. The gears are in a sequential pattern rather than a &quot;H&quot; pattern. The clutch, if any is disengaged by squeezing the lever on the left handlebar. I'm not completely sure about this but I think that's how it goes. Thanks for your question.
Thanks for this very informative article. It was very much appreciated by this reader who has never driven a manual in her life!
now i just need to drop in a new engine and i can practice driving my mustang :D<br>my first time driving manual i had no clue on starting from a dead stop. that was about the only place i ever stalled the car too, was starting from a dead stop.<br><br>to be honest each time that happened it was a &quot;holy s*** what did i just do&quot; moment, since ive always driven an automatic before. seeing as how ive ony driven manual once, im not going to give up on it though. and since manual cars get better fuel economy, itd probably be better for me to drive anyways :P
America is one of very few countries left, were a driving license for an auto allows you to drive a manual. Other inaccuracies in this article are numerous.<br>Of the majority of vehicles built in the last three years, autos accelerate faster, are more efficient and give better economy. No matter what your opinion is, it is a fact that computers running your gear box have more ability than you do to judge the best gear to be in. Please base your articles on facts not just your clouded opinions. You are correct that autos are generally more expensive than manuals when purchased, although the hold their value better too.
So even if you are correct about autos in the last three years being quicker and more efficient... does that make every car made between 1908 and 2009 not count anymore? If thats the case, I wonder why sports cars are always manual and minivans are always auto? I wonder why the EPA fuel consumption estimates are always better for manuals than for autos? Please base your comments from an objective point of view and not from the inside of your ass, which is where your head seems to be stuck, in my opinion. Thans for commenting.
Nicely written &quot;ible&quot;. Personally, if I have to give a &quot;little&quot; gas when starting out then the vehicle must be on an incline, if the vehicle is tuned properly then simply releasing the clutch will allow it to begin moving. I seldom use the clutch for anything besides starting and stopping unless it's to speed shift under hard acceleration and even then it's not always necessary but then I was taught to drive on soft beach sand when I was strong enough to depress the clutch on a 5ton truck and have driven everything from a 3spd to a 21 spd
I agree that releasing the clutch pedal without giving the car some gas will allow it to creep forward. However while in traffic you need to get moving a lot quicker than an idling engine will allow and this is why I say that you need to give the car some gas. Thanks for commenting.
Manual transmissions are OK unless you've a large motor, or drive in traffic, or bracket race. Then you're much better off with an automatic.
Apparently you've never driven an<em> </em>auto<em> </em>with <em>&quot;a large motor, or drive in traffic, or bracket race&quot;.</em> I have owned auto and I personally have had nothing but bad luck with them. I think it's ether the car you owned or your driving style that makes you suggest such a thing. I have owned 3 manual cars with over 200k on them (hard city miles) and never once did they have a trans repair. On the other hand I have had two autos with less mileage and blown trans. Oh and both cars were the same make and model.&nbsp;
Hi. This is sinyami. Can anybody instruct me on tiptronic cars? How do you shift down if you brake suddenly in an emergency? I just press clutch and shift into neutral to stop a manual from jerking or stalling. What if you are in tiptronic mode in an auto car?
I've never driven a tiptronic car before but I'm pretty sure most cars have a computer that will override the driver's control and automaticly shift up if the engine revs too high or shift down if the engine starts to lug. Or maybe the computer selects the shift points based on speed; I'm not sure. At any rate, I guess you can still operate the button to shift down while hard braking. Nevertheless, in an emergency the main thing is to bring the car to a stop as quickly as possible, if the engine stalls that's the least of your concerns.
Thanks lancepenney. Already sounds like it lacks the finnesse of a manual. Guess you are right anyway.
This is a great instructable! I am a new driver and am trying to familiarize myself with many different vehicles. This is a very helpful guide and i appreciate you posting it.
I was raised on a farm. Our tractor used a clutch and manual transmission. I became familiar with using a tractor's clutch at about seven years of age. The use of a clutch in an automobile has a few similarities with using a clutch on a farm tractor, but also some stark differences. My parents always felt my brothers and I (we had no sisters) needed to know how to drive a manual shift transmission in case an accident occurred and one of us was the only person who could drive an injured person to a hospital. It seems that would be a good rationale for everyone knowing how to drive a manual transmission. <br><br>In regard to a clutch and manual transmission requiring less maintenance, I would say that depends on the type of springs used in the clutch. Finger springs eventually break off and the clutch needs replacement. In my experience that seems to happen around 75,000 miles, give or take. I had an older car with coil springs in the clutch and the clutch was still fine at 130,000 miles. Most newer cars use the finger springs.<br><br>Thank you for your Instructable. It is possible for someone to teach himself how to drive a manual shift transmission. I think it would be a little easier to have someone experienced teach a new driver, though.
I bought a manual car, jumped in it, and drove it home. Sure I stalled out at one light but I got the hang of it.<br><br>I've broken just about everything that can be broken in manual transmissions at one time or another. Synchros, shifter forks, layshafts, pressure plate assemblies, hydraulic lines, clutch cables, gear shift lever bushings. I don't count clutch discs, they're a wear item. They're like brakes, you have to bed them in if you want to get good life out of them.

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