Instructables
Picture of How to Eye Splice Paracord
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An eye splice creates a permanent loop in a single strand without any knots. This method is more appropriately called Long Bury Splicing. You can read more about it here. Since paracord is braided, the tighter you pull on the loop the tighter the cord grips the splice.You only need a few common tools to do it.

Step 1: Prepare your "needle"

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Cut a section of wire (I’m using 16 gage) and bend a small loop on one side. Tightly crimp the loop shut. Snip off the majority of the crimped tail and file down any sharp edges. See the pictures.

Next use a steep angle while cutting the other end. You should end up with a needle looking piece of wire. Again file off any sharp edges.

Step 2: Melt on the paracord

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Gut the paracord and use a razor blade to make a clean cut at one end. Slip the crimped end of the wire into the braided core. Use a torch or lighter to melt the paracord so it beads into a ring.

Now that the paracord is melted you can pull the wire crimp back to the end without it slipping out.

Step 3: Feed it through

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How large a loop you want and how long you want the tail inside the hollow braid will determine where you pierce the paracord. Pierce the cord going away from the loop. Thread the needle through the appropriate length and pierce it back out of the hollow braid.

This next step is the tricky part. Thread the melted paracord ring into the hollow braid. To make it easier you’ll want to expand hole. I used my round nose pliers but you could get away with using a nail or something the like. It may also help to put a couple drops of water in the area. That way when you remove your hole expander the braids stay apart.

Scrunch up the paracord allowing the cord on the inside to move through. Once you pull it out of the braid cut it at an angle so the tail has a taper. Adjust the loop pulling the excess back into the hollow braid.
 
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You may be better off securing it towards the other end. An eyesplice gains it's strength by the constriction of the outer sheath on the inner. By securing it where the loop enters the sheath, you are completely losing this benefit, and only have that drop of nylon holding the whole thing together. I'd recommend sewing a couple strands through both the outer and inner, down the length to hold them both together..
Rhodach2 years ago
I am new here so be patient

Thanks for posting this, I am just starting out on projects using paracord and making dog leads/show sets is amongst my plans so this will help.

A couple of questions

What type of wire should I be looking for?

I didn't see mention of removing the inner strands just a pic of them out, won't this leave the loop rather flimsy or is there some way of making the handle of a lead more substantial by maybe doing some "knotting" over the top?

Thanks in advance
Mrballeng (author)  Rhodach2 years ago
I'm using 16 gage wire here. You can make the handle more substantial by only removing a portion of the inner strands. You would do this by threading through the gutted section of cord until the full section meets the entrance of where you started the threading. The only thing is it may be difficult to thread the cord with a wire. You may have to use a large needle. There are videos on the web for larger size rope on this. It may be helpful to check out. Goods luck.
azlatina332 years ago
Man I Love you! I have been searching for this information all over the web and nobody wil explain how to do this splicing. I am trying to make a beaded show lead to show my dogs and people will not give up anything on how this was done!!
Jobar0072 years ago
A good rule to follow is 8" of cord overlap for strength reasons. I've found that it helps to keep everything secure in the splices. As a result, I would recommend making the needle listed above longer than that, probably 12" or so.

I've done this before, but I used stiff fishing line taped to the end of the paracord. I like the idea of the needle.
21 - 24 rope diameters is what most splicing pros call a "fid length". Two "fid lengths" should be secure enough, in this case, to break the rope in the length, not at the splice.
mackamitsu2 years ago
Also makes a nice start when building Ranger pace beads,a carabiner holder on your climbing harness, keychain (as noted above) , a flashlight lanyard, a lanyard of any sort for light stuff. If you have a need to use whipping, get UV protected fishing line.
discowhale2 years ago
Playing Devil's Advocate here.

Dong this means your eye loop ONLY has the strength of the cover, and not a clue what that is, if you've gutted the stranding. So if / when you use this technique, REMEMBER the eye is no longer 550 cord!
Thanks
This is very similar to splicing an eye on double braid line. For full strength you need to part a hole in the side of the line and pull out the center cording. (don't gut the rest)

Fasten some sort of needle to the ends of the pulled out center cording. Feed that backwards through the hollow braid.

Then feed both the hollow braid and the center core inside of the main line on past the parted hole.

You should think in terms of thirds. If your finished loop is 1 inch long (2 inches folded over) then you should have one inch of both the braid and core back through inside the main line. Start your parted hole at 3 inches. Doing it this way you should not have to glue or whip the junction.

(Maybe I should do and 'ible?) :-)
ilpug2 years ago
I saw this a few days ago somewhere and have been trying to do it ever since... I had no idea it was that easy! Thanks.
Mr.Sanchez2 years ago
Nice "needle" !
Interesting...now I got to figure out what I'm gonna use this for. Maybe use it for some ready made traps for the ol' BOB.

Mrballeng (author)  RedneckEngineer2 years ago
This came about because a friend of mine wanted a lanyard for his keys that would not get caught up while pulling them in and out of his pocket. So there's one use at least.
rimar20002 years ago
This is a very useful skill!