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Note : I know many of you will say that's PLUG and not the JACK. Not technical people generally refer it as a jack ! and my videos and Instructables are for everyone so just chill out and enjoy :)
Many of us love music, especially on earphones! but the problem is rough usage and broken headphone jack. Have you ever came across such problem? Then I can show you how to fix it ! so let's get started

Step 1: Watch the Video !

Click Here to watch it

If you are lazy and don't want to read all stuff you can watch my video! And it is much easier.

Step 2: Lets Start

So the very first thing grab the broken pair of earphones and cut the wire just above the broken area. Then use something like a box cutter or xacto knife and remove the rubber on top of jack. After the if you have plastic on the jack remove it using pliers.

Step 3: Check Jack

Ones you have the Jack we need to check if it is still functional we will use multimeter`s continuity function for that. Mine is still fine! If yours is not you need to order new one

1) https://www.amazon.com/Uxcell-10-Pieces-Black-Plas...

2) https://www.amazon.com/3-5mm-Repair-headphone-Sold...

Step 4: Clean Jack and Prepare Wires

Now clean the jack and remove the wires from jack using soldering iron. Now take other end of the cable and remove the outer rubber. You will see 4 Wires

Copper is for GND

Green is for Right

Blue is for Microphone

Red is for Left.

Step 5: Soldering

For Soldering the wires here is the schematic solder it and you are done

Step 6: Check Jack Again!

Now plug the jack and check if it is working mine is working so we can proceed ahead. if yours didn't work check if soldering is done properly if not then you have to open the earbud and check if the manufacturer has changed the wiring!

Step 7: Final

So finally we have fixed it but we can't use it like that it will break in few hours so we can use heat shrinking tube to cover it!

Step 8: Thank You !

Feel free to check out my YouTube channel for more awesome projects:

https://www.youtube.com/c/Nematics_lab

You can also follow me on Facebook, Twitter etc for upcoming projects and behind the scenes information

https://www.facebook.com/NematicsLab/

https://www.instagram.com/nematic_yt/

https://www.snapchat.com/add/nemeen

https://twitter.com/Nematic_YT

<p>Nice instructable. As another commenter noted, &quot;tin&quot; the bare wire ends with solder before trying to attach them to the 4 tiny lugs. And notice Nematic!'s *very* quick and light touch with the soldering iron. He makes this look easy, but try it yourself and you'll appreciate his technique!</p>
<p>I have never (in 50+ years) seen the sleeve of a jack used for anything but ground. In your schematic you identify this as the mic connector. Are you sure this is correct? </p>
different manufacturer change the connections for some odd reason but now a days I have seen this connection being followed
<p>I sometimes use hot glue to bulk up the connector and protect the wires. You can put heat shrink over it. </p>
<p>To protect the wire, I recommend two or three layers of heat shrink in successively shorter lengths and larger diameters to create a rat-tail grommet.</p><p>But slide the smaller heatshrink up the wire BEFORE you solder, or it won't go over the plug.</p>
<p>Yep I did it later coz showing same thing again and again in video will make audience bore </p>
<p>The part you describe is the plug, rather than the jack. The jack is the receptacle that the plug inserts into. Otherwise a useful Instructable.</p>
<p>Yeah I know but non technical people refer it as Jack so some sort of clickbate :P</p>
<p>cut the old plug with broken part of wire.</p><p>solder new plug.</p><p>done.</p><p>plugs are dirt cheap. there is too much effort to mess with old plug. </p>
<p>Yeah but if you can savage one it better in my contry they are bit expensive</p>
<p>Great instructable :-)</p><p>Tip: I secure the cable with sewingthread windings as reinforcement and epoxy, then shrink tube and cap / cover</p>
<p>Next time it breaks it would be difficult to get through the epoxy that's why I used heat shrinking tube </p>
<p>At therestartproject.org we very frequently fix headphones with around 90% success rate but more usually with a replacement plug which you can get quite cheaply. Most replacements are bulkier than the original though, and make sure it's got a cable clamp or it won't last long at all. You need to use the continuity tester to see which colour wire goes to which jack contact as the wire colours in step 4 aren't universal.</p><p>An interesting idea to use heat shrink sleeving, but it may not stop the connections from breaking if the lead is given a yank. I'd prefer to use Sugru (see sugru.com). Sugru is also good for protecting the lead when the outer sheath starts to fail but before the earphones stop working.</p><p>The wire can be a little tricky to solder. First of all, twist the strands together to stop them fraying, then feed the twisted bundle into a blob of molten solder on the tip of your iron. Withdraw and repeat until the wire is tinned. The trouble with using a lighter is that you have little control of the length of wire that is bared of insulation.</p>
<p>Thanks for the advice</p>
<p>Nice 'ible, well done! Nice to see you finding a way to use the original barrel of the plug instead of buying a new one!</p><p>A couple of tips for you, since I have done a few of these.</p><p>Use a spare headphone jack to hold the plug whilst you solder. It's much easier because you can clamp it in a vice or whatever, and it protects the plug.</p><p>If you are careful, you can often save the original outer jacket from these moulded plugs because it's made of rubber and if you slice it open down one side you can peel it back from the plastic which is injection moulded over the plug connections. When you come to re-assemble, fill the space inside the plug with hot glue and use super-glue to stick the edges of the jacket back together. With care, you can hardly tell it's been fixed :)</p>
<p>Thanks for the advice :)</p>
<p>I use SleepPhones every night with an iPod Nano and the plugs got trashed pretty regularly. To make it more rugged I clipped off the plug and about 6&quot; of cord from a headphone to RCA cord. I put heat shrink tubing on each wire, a little electrical tape to hold them together then heat shrink around that. It's held up for 6 months so far.</p>
<p>cool </p>
<p>Nice one Neeman! </p><p>Thumbs up^</p>
<p>Thanks !</p>
<p>Great Job, Neeman.</p><p>I've had the plug go bad just like yours, but if the contact continuity is still good, I just put a small drop of gorilla glue (urethane) on the spot. After drying, it's bulletproof</p>
<p>its better to solder it coz glue wont hold it for long</p>
I have done that many off times, but I have found a different way, instead of cutting the rubber insulation on the 3.5mm jack plug, I use boiling water, for the jack plug, warning ⚠️ very hot, use pliers and a old tea towel, the rubber insulation should come off, clean up the rest of the parts, and solid the wires back on plug, and test it, then put the rubber insulation back on, the end result, it should look like it never been touch,
<p>I didn't know about that, I will definitely try that!</p>
<p>I have try to repair a headset yet. The wires have painted for isolation, like this instructable. I had to burn the paint by a lighter, otherwise I can't solder it. By sandpaper not enough to clean wires.</p>
<p>If you are using a good quality Iron it will burn the paint itself and now a day most of the cheap irons can get to that temperature </p>
<p>That paint will just burn off when you solder the wires. You don't need to clean them!</p>
<p>Many years ago (70's) I worked as a technician for Control Data Aerospace Division. Indoctrination included classroom instructions in soldering. Cleaning the coating off magnet wire by simply melting it when tinning the wire was one of the first things they taught us.</p>
<p>I must. The soldering tin release the wire, if I didn't do it. Maybe the temperature of the soldering iron was too low, or something else, but I could do with fire. :-)</p>
<p>I found it easier to solder the 4 connections on a very small strip of veroboard. I first soldered the wires onto the board and placed the cleaned jack on top of it and quickly touched the connedtion to the blobs of solder. After I cleaned the completed board, I iused a pair of side cutters and a riotary too griner and shaped the board real small and then slipped a couple of layers of heat shrink tube. Voila, neat and reliable connection.</p>
<p>Yeah it works with veroboard</p>
<p>Great video! Thank you.</p>
<p>I would put a really small piece of heat shrink on the negative before soldering. I am actually kind of surprised that the heat shrink you put on didn't press the ground against the mic contact.</p><p>Love the sewing thread windings idea by andreasremen! </p><p>Good ible. Thanks!</p>
Nice. Very informative!
<p>this actually looks easy enough for even me to try. Thanks</p>

About This Instructable

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Bio: Hi, I'm Nemeen !, Electronic and robotics enthusiastic. This is my channel 'Nematic !' I will be uploading on and about awesome Electronics Tutorials, Projects and ... More »
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