Step 6: Prime+Paint+Clear Coat

All you have to do is fallow the instructions on the paint container.
First prime, I think I did 2 or 3 coats of primer.
Second paint, I think I did 3 or 4 coats of paint. Make sure you get a paint that matches the vehicle's color. You should be able to find that out on the internet.
Third clear coat, I did 2 coats of clear coat.

*Make sure no one walks by them while drying and touches them.
**Make sure you allow adequate drying time between each step and each coat based on what the paint containers tell you.
Right before I went to paint or prime, i opened the garage a little to allow some of the fumes to escape and get oxygen in there.
I have a similar Toyota with the same color. The color is the most difficult one to match since it has been fading in the sun since 1997 and the "exact" color match is really the un-faded original mix. Any ideas on how to get a better match to the existing color? I could repaint the whole car, but that would be more than the car is worth.
tape off the area with the new paint on it and hit it with uv light for a few hours. (high intensity) should fade it closer if not exact match
if you could mix the paints, you could add a really small amount of gray, that would make it match better, or after you painted it, leave the tape on it and put a uv light on it over night.
<p>You missed some really important steps and it shows. You never rubbed out and polished the paint. Those are critical steps and it really shows that you didn't do those steps. Also, you didn't glaze although sometimes you don't have to. You can see the bad matching clearly even from a distance. I mean no disrespect but there are too many people telling others how to do things when it's obvious they don't know how to do the very things they are instructing others about. </p>
Oh this is something I've become very familiar with over the years particularly rear arches.<br>It is possible to do a good as seamless job with filler and rattle cans but it so much work involved.I'm fine with the rust removal and the repainting but the endless sanding the filler back to match as the original curves as flawlessly as possible is trying beyond despair at times lol.Personally I prefer cutting out and welding new wheel arches in but that's not what this article is about lol.<br>The only things I'd add is if you're going to leave pitted metal behind,I much prefer removing back to rust free new metal but if you do then thoroughly treat the area with rust killer/eater first
<p>I switched from Bondo which cracked over time to fiberglass in a can which never cracks and sticks like a mother. Also, prefer to blow the dust outdoors with a big fan open all windows, the dust &amp; fumes will kill. Prefer fresh air to a mask.</p>
<p>Thanks for the info. Car and especially body work is not part of my skill set but my truck definitely needs this sort of attention before I loose the fenders!</p>
Thanks for posting. That's a lot of effort. Will try that this coming spring on my camry
Great job!
i think you did a pretty decent job. The most interesting part is that you actually took the courage of learning on the job. Many of us would not have. However, make sure to update, I'll be thrilled to work on my own car in the coming months.
Doing bodywork there is no right and wrong. Only what looks good, and holds up. I've gone through all kinds of trouble, only to have rust come back up, and I've done lousy jobs that have held up. There is no figuring it.
Thanks, and that is all true, all for appeal <br>
Some of it is for safety. I knew a guy that took a car to vehicle inspection, and the inspector ripped his pants on a bit of rust, well, then the inspector broke out a book about a foot thick and proceeded to fail that car for everything he could!
Wow, that's crazy! that inspector either had a really expensive pair of pants on, or was having a really really bad day.
Some who view this may wonder why and how a car ever rusts. We have lived in places where rust was a real problem and where very old cars are on the road with no rust. If you live in a snow belt, chances are quite a bit of salt is used to make the roads safe in the winter. Salt spray gets into cracks and recesses. When you actually see signs of rust, it is not just on the surface; but, is eating through from the other side. Many people in those places who want to keep their cars up may use pop rivets and roof flashing that they cover with body putty as you did. Sometimes the structure of the car body is affected by large amounts of rust, so that the driver's seat moves when someone sits in it, or you can see the road while driving. One of the best things in a snow belt is to have a new car treated with a rust preventative process before the car leaves the dealership. People buying a used car in those places usually carry a magnet to see how much body putty has been used on a car.

About This Instructable




Bio: A high school kid who likes to do a lot. I like to build, invent, blow things up, and fire. If you need help on ... More »
More by zipzapper859:Welding/Metals Projects How to Fix Rust Around Your Wheel Wells Belt Buckle Stereo System 
Add instructable to: