Instructables

How to Fix Rust Spots On a Car

Featured

Step 6: Wash and Wax

After the paint had cured a good 48 hours, I washed and waxed the car to bring back the shine. It ended up looking fairly good. It cost me less than $15 and 4-6 hours of labor. I spent an additional 4 hours washing and waxing. If I had taken it to a body shop, it could have cost me $200. So I saved a lot of money and got the satisfaction of doing it myself, which is the best part.
 
Remove these adsRemove these ads by Signing Up
i wish things were this easy for me, but i have 6 cancer spots were i had to cut metal out and tack in some new metal and bondo over it, i have a few spots of bubbling rust and of course nothing is in an easy spot
i have a 96 golf that has a few rust spots, im thinking of doing this! it turned out really well.
Awesome job on the the fender.

I'm curious, how many miles per gallon do you get on your VW Golf? I'm thinking about buying a diesel. Somebody told me they burn cleaner than gasoline and the engines(if well-maintained) can last a million miles.
spinach_dip7 years ago
looks pretty good. I no longer care too much about appearance, because I drive beaters, but whenever I would grind out rust and prime and paint, the rust would return in that same spot within a year. I think the grinding removes all the galvnizing. Although I haven't done any cosmetic bodywork with it, I've had good luck on other things with primer that says it containes zinc. They are also known as cold galvnizing compounds.
Did you try magic oil.
I read on another site mercedessource .com and found out that there is magic paint that can stop the rusting right away. Can you try?
Galvafroid for instance
leandrop74 years ago
paint the whole fender so there will be differences in painting!
hellZEN6 years ago
Kudos on your resourcefulness!!! I did AutoBody work back in the day... When things were slow, we did rust/rot work. BTW, they don't galvanize body metal, at least back then - the paint doesn't stick to it. Regarding rerusting .... If you can TOTALLY get to bare metal, you should be ok. If pits remain, you need to treat with a dab of rust treatment. There are two kinds that come to mind 1) a coating that has phosphoric acid and possibly tannic acid like the rustoleum rust reformer stuff or similar product that chemically transforms the rust (iron oxide) into stable Iron phosphate with a coating to seal it (don't sand before priming). 2) products that use oxalic acid and possibly tannic acid, again with some kind of coating left behind. Finally, the old man always told me to "metal prep' the bare metal to remove any residual flakes from grinding and lightly etch the metal, leaving behind a light coating containing zinc. Before priming, we would generally pull the tape back and "feather" the edges on the original paint, so that the new primer comes up level with the old paint. For the color coat, you can lightly scuff the area to allow a fade of the new color into the old. It just takes some 400 or 600 grit paper and a couple of extra minutes.
pfred17 years ago
Hmm never thought about the zinc angle. Whenever I paint I never know if the rust is going to come up or not. Sometimes it doesn't seem to matter what sort of prep I do, crap job it holds up, good job and it pops go figure? If anyone really wants to see what it takes to paint these guys here pretty much did it up:

http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Body/Painting101/index.htm

BTW that spot you had there that wasn't rust this is rust!

http://home.comcast.net/~pcf1/115.jpg

You can tell I don't just jump right out there and do bodywork anymore can't you?