Introduction: How to Install a New Toilet in 1 Hour or Less

Picture of How to Install a New Toilet in 1 Hour or Less

Today we’re going to share how to install a new toilet on a tile floor.

Specifically American Standard’s one-piece Cadet 3…which is an awesome toilet for small bathrooms.

Why should you learn to do this project?

Well, for one it’ll save you a ton of money.

Second, it’s good to know how a toilet works.

When there’s a leak you’ll have the ability to fix it and save even more money!!!

Let’s dive in and see how to replace a toilet on a tiled bathroom floor, we have a ton of great tips.

Step 1: Addressing the Toilet Flange

Picture of Addressing the Toilet Flange

At the beginning of the our video Steve discusses the toilet flange.

This is by far one of the most important parts to the a new toilet installation. Here’s the deal: If the toilet flange sits below the finished floor, the toilet will leak.

Why?

It’s simple, the watertight seal between the toilet bowl and wax ring will eventually fail. In order for this not to happen the toilet flange must sit above the finished floor by at least 1/4″. Steve used an Oatey 4″ replacement toilet flange for cast iron pipes.

This flange uses a rubber compression gasket which enables the flange to be used on many types of cast-iron piping.


The 3 stainless-steel bolts are tightened to compress the rubber gasket to secure the flange to the existing pipe.

In addition, the compression joint allows up to 3″ of adjustment. This replacement flange is for broken flanges or flanges that sit below the finished tile floor. They’re super easy to install. Once the flange is fixed the next step is to replace the toilet. Does the wax ring on the flange or bottom of the toilet bowl??

Step 2: Add the Wax Ring

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Let’s answer the wax ring question:

Always place the wax ring on the closet flange.

This helps eliminate the possibility of the ring falling off the bottom of the toilet bowl.

Step 3: Get the Rough-In

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Before you buy a new toilet, get the rough-in measurement.

Why does this matter?

First, the rough-in is the distance between the closet flange bolts and finished wall.

In our case that distances was 12″.

That’s why you see the closet flange bolts positioned at that 12″ mark. We secured them to the closet flange using nuts and washers.

Step 4: Set the Toilet

Picture of Set the Toilet

That’s why you see the closet flange bolts positioned at that 12″ mark.

We secured them to the closet flange using nuts and washers.

Align the holes in the toilet with the closet flange bolts and slowly lower it until the bowl meets the wax ring.
Then compress the toilet against the wax ring to make a good watertight seal.

Step 5: Add Washers and Nuts

Picture of Add Washers and Nuts

Add the plastic washers first, then metal washers, and finally the nuts to the closet flange bolts.

Tighten the nuts with a wrench.

This is super important: Do not over-tighten the nuts because this could crack the bowl. Tighten the nuts just enough to keep the toilet from moving. If the tile floor isn’t flat, the toilet bowl might have to be shimmed.

We cover this in a different toilet installation tutorial…just in case you’re interested. The next step is to get the water hooked up to the toilet. What kind of water supply should be used?

Step 6: Attach the Supply Line

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Let’s answer the last question:

steel braided supply lines are the best. They don’t leak (if installed right) and don’t look cheesy like those nasty plastic ones. Choose a supply line that will fit the shut-off valve.

Typically this is 3/8″. Hand tighten the supply line to the toilet tank’s fill valve.

And do the same for the shut-off valve connection. Then tighten that nut 1/4 to 1/2 turn using either a crescent wrench or pliers.

Here’s a PRO TIP:

The crescent wrench won’t scratch the nut’s finish.

I forgot to add this tip to the video, oops. Turn the shut-off valve to the on position and watch the water fill up the tank. Check for any leaks at the plumbing connections and ensure the toilet tank water level is roughly 3/4″ to 1″ below the overflow pipe.

The nice thing about one-piece toilets is there are no leak points at the tank to bowl connection.
That said, we have a great tutorial on how to install a two-piece American Standard toilet. Trim closet flange bolts using linesman pliers.

Step 7: Secure the Self-Closing Seat

Picture of Secure the Self-Closing Seat

Then add the self-closing toilet seat…which is super easy.

Place the rubber gaskets on the seat’s hinges, then the metal washers (Steve explains which ones to use in the video), and secure the seat to the bowl with the plastic nuts & washers.

This new toilet took about 1 hour to install. And it looks pretty darn good with the bathroom’s tiled walls and floor.

Step 8: Watch the Video

Watch our video to see all the steps to installing a new toilet in 1 hour or less.

Thanks as always for reading, watching, and being part of our awesome community.

Ask your questions below and we’d be happy to help.

Talk to you soon,

Jeff

Comments

Kafukai (author)2017-07-30

Nice to see how different toilets looks around the world, but they all work on the same principle :)

Why didn't you put some silicone sealant around the buttom of the toilet? that should prevent water to come in and create mold.

SteelLegJ (author)Kafukai2017-07-30

Good question, I asked that too. one reason not to seal it is to be able to detect leaks. so you can see the water come under the toilet instead of finding it on a ceiling or basement under the toilet.

Atremise (author)SteelLegJ2017-07-31

Also, if you do seal the toilet, don't seal the back of it so that if there is a leak the water has somewhere to go still.

Kafukai (author)SteelLegJ2017-07-30

That sounds logical :) Our toilets have the hose in the back of the toilet, and it is conttected to the wall.

BeachsideHank (author)2017-07-30

This has been the year of the toilet in my family, I helped my son replace 2 cracked ones at his home, and I had to replace a floor flange at mine. It wasn't too bad a job to replace the PVC flange, just saw down one side with a drywall hand saw then bust out the fitting. Don't prime the fittings when gluing in the replacement, it makes it too good a joint, just clean and go to glue according to the pros- expect to have to replace it again some day. ☺

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