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Step 10Installing Output Connector
The output D-Sub 15 connector will be the most visible portion of this installation, and also the piece that will be under the most strain with the UPCB cables being plugged and unplugged frequently. For these reasons, it is extremely important that this installation be both visibly clean and structurally strong. It takes care and craftsmanship, so take your time and get it right the first time.
In the pictures below, I am using a IDC style D-Sub connector. This is not the only way. Using a regular solder cup style D-Sub connector would be much easier and less error prone. You can cut a hole for the connector, mount it on the outside covering up any imperfections, and attach the connector securely with the normal mounting hardware and a #4 size nut.
Due to the thickness of the screw portion of the connector, and the thickness of the HRAP walls, we have to mount the IDC D-Sub connector on the outside of the case, with the IDC rear end poking through to the inside. Because the IDC end is exactly as tall as the connector itself, this leaves us no room for error when cutting the needed hole. Take measurements of the height and width of the rear of the connector. Mark the area to be cut with a pencil, whip out the Dremel, and prepare to start cutting.
The majority of the plastic should be removed by the Dremel, but the edges should be finalized with a strong, sharp knife. Take your time and constantly compare with the connector to make sure you are cutting where needed and nowhere else. The connector should fit very tight and very snug.
Run the ribbon cable through the hole (you may have to twist the end so you can put the smaller IDC connector, the one that plugs into the UPCB, through the hole) and seat the connector as best you can. We want the plue plastic on the 'wings' resting against the white plastic walls.
Using a very fine drill bit in your Dremel, you want to drill a hole through the HRAP wall where the screws will go; through the two holes in the metal. You can screw the two hex bolts into the connector easily, but it will take some patient and effort to have it screw itself through the holes you just drilled.
The snugness of the fit, and the two hex screws you just screwed into the plastic, are securing the connector in place, but it won't be enough by itself. Since the thickness of the D-Sub connector and the thickness of the HRAP wall are too much to allow you to use a nut on the inside of the hex bolts, we need something else to secure it. I decided on epoxy.
Epoxy is nasty smelling stuff that comes in two containers. To use it, you want to mix equal quantities of each liquid together, and then apply like glue. Unlike glue, the epoxy cures to a plastic like substance that is extremely strong and VERY permanent. Again, a step you need to get right the first time, or at least correct before the epoxy sets. After that, it's too late.
Epoxy around the rear end of the connector sticking inside the stick. We don't need much, just enough to fill the imperfections of the cuts and the gap between the connector and stick wall. You do not need to gob it on like some people do with hot glue. This stuff is 100x stronger and far more permanent. Also apply it LIGHTLY around the connector outside the stick, and only where the blue connector plastic meets the white HRAP wall. Set the stick so it is resting on the front lip, with the outside portion of the connector pointing straight up (I used a small clamp to secure it upright). Do a final check for stray epoxy to clean up, and then let it set, at least overnight.
In the pictures below, I am using a IDC style D-Sub connector. This is not the only way. Using a regular solder cup style D-Sub connector would be much easier and less error prone. You can cut a hole for the connector, mount it on the outside covering up any imperfections, and attach the connector securely with the normal mounting hardware and a #4 size nut.
Due to the thickness of the screw portion of the connector, and the thickness of the HRAP walls, we have to mount the IDC D-Sub connector on the outside of the case, with the IDC rear end poking through to the inside. Because the IDC end is exactly as tall as the connector itself, this leaves us no room for error when cutting the needed hole. Take measurements of the height and width of the rear of the connector. Mark the area to be cut with a pencil, whip out the Dremel, and prepare to start cutting.
The majority of the plastic should be removed by the Dremel, but the edges should be finalized with a strong, sharp knife. Take your time and constantly compare with the connector to make sure you are cutting where needed and nowhere else. The connector should fit very tight and very snug.
Run the ribbon cable through the hole (you may have to twist the end so you can put the smaller IDC connector, the one that plugs into the UPCB, through the hole) and seat the connector as best you can. We want the plue plastic on the 'wings' resting against the white plastic walls.
Using a very fine drill bit in your Dremel, you want to drill a hole through the HRAP wall where the screws will go; through the two holes in the metal. You can screw the two hex bolts into the connector easily, but it will take some patient and effort to have it screw itself through the holes you just drilled.
The snugness of the fit, and the two hex screws you just screwed into the plastic, are securing the connector in place, but it won't be enough by itself. Since the thickness of the D-Sub connector and the thickness of the HRAP wall are too much to allow you to use a nut on the inside of the hex bolts, we need something else to secure it. I decided on epoxy.
Epoxy is nasty smelling stuff that comes in two containers. To use it, you want to mix equal quantities of each liquid together, and then apply like glue. Unlike glue, the epoxy cures to a plastic like substance that is extremely strong and VERY permanent. Again, a step you need to get right the first time, or at least correct before the epoxy sets. After that, it's too late.
Epoxy around the rear end of the connector sticking inside the stick. We don't need much, just enough to fill the imperfections of the cuts and the gap between the connector and stick wall. You do not need to gob it on like some people do with hot glue. This stuff is 100x stronger and far more permanent. Also apply it LIGHTLY around the connector outside the stick, and only where the blue connector plastic meets the white HRAP wall. Set the stick so it is resting on the front lip, with the outside portion of the connector pointing straight up (I used a small clamp to secure it upright). Do a final check for stray epoxy to clean up, and then let it set, at least overnight.
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