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Step 9Programming Switch
The plastic piece that houses the turbo switches and the original PCB nicely fills up the hole in the metal control panel. Without some hefty creative talents, this is almost impossible to replace. We could easily leave it there with non-functional buttons, but I wanted to use at least some of it. The left most 'slow' switch would be perfect to use as the UPCB 'programming' button.
All we need to do is make it so that raising the switch connects the two wires we solder to it. So let's take a peek and see how we can do that.
Turn the plastic piece so the switches face the floor. You'll see two small tabs on one side holding the PCB down, and one large tab on the other side. Push the small tabs gently so you can lift and remove the PCB. Be careful doing this; the switches are not held in by anything, and you do not want to lose any, so keep the plastic piece level. Set the plastic piece with all switches aside for now.
Look at the side of the PCB that faced the sliding switches. It is easy to see which set of pads was for the 'slow' switch, SW1. It's the only one that has no traces going to the square pad in the upper right. That's because it only goes up one click. The middle right pad is the one we're concerned with. The left side pad is entirely connected to ground. Each of those pairs of solder points on the sides is for one of the original buttons, and one of each pair is connected to ground. So, all we need to do is connect the middle right pad to one of the traces normally meant for a button. Confused yet?
Turn the PCB over and take a peek at the real guts of the board. That single chip controls everything when its plugged into a Playstation. It's a shame, but we just don't need it any more. In order to make sure we don't mess up anything, it's best if we remove this chip.
Take some soldering flux, and apply it across all of the pins. Lay down some copper braid over top of the pins, and apply a hot soldering iron. The heat with melt the solder, the flux will help it flow, and the copper braid will suck it up. You may have to go a couple of times over each set of pins, but we're not too concerned with the chip surviving, or most of the PCB surviving for that matter. See the section of pins marked 1-12? Those are the ones we want. All the rest can get torn to hell and it won't matter.
Desolder and remove the capacitor as well.
Now that the IC and capacitor are out of the way. we need to do some trace hunting. Follow the trace from the middle right pad all of the way to the via it uses in the middle. Remember which of those holes was the via we want, flip the board over, and continue to follow it. On mine, it was connected to pin 8. Remember the number yours ends up at.
Now, we need to find a trace of one of the soldering points so we have a strong place to connect the wires. Right next to the pin we found earlier, 8, is 9. Follow the trace to the via and through the other side to see where it ends up. One mine, it ends up at one of the solder points just like we want, at 'CN3'. Perfect.
When the 'slow' switch is pushed up, it connects pin 9 to ground. If we make a connection between pin 8 and pin 9, then the two wires soldered in the 'CN3' spot will be connected when the switch is up, and not connected when the switch is down. That's exactly what we want.
You can try to be careful and use a small piece of wire, but I was lacking in patience and just connected pin 8 and 9 with a blob of solder. Use sparingly though; some of those pins are connected to ground, and if you short pin 8 to ground with solder here, it won't work. I'll act like the button is always pressed.
Before we package it all up, let's make sure the solder blob did its job. Take a multimeter, and check both of the solder points on CN3. They should NOT be connected. Take one end of the probe, and touch it to the big left side pad of SW1. Use the other probe on both of the CN3 solder points. It's should show connection with the right most pad, and no connection with the left most pad. Good. If it shows connection to both, then you're solder blob connected it to a ground pin. Desolder the blob and try again.
Now put one probe on the middle right pad of SW1, and test the connections with the other probe to both pads of CN3. It should show connection with the left, and not the right. If so, you did it. If it doesn't show connection with either, then your solder blob did not connect pin 8 and pin 9. Try again.
Now that the crafted short circuit is in place, take two lengths of wire, about 8" in length, and solder them to the two CN3 solder pads.
Reassemble the PCB back into the plastic piece with the slide switches. Once the PCB is in secure, turn it over and grab your multimeter for a final test. The two wires should show no connection when the 'slow' slide is down, and show connection when it's up. If so, your program switch is ready.
These two wires need to be connected to the UPCB in the RB5 location. You can solder them in directly, or use a header and connector like I did.
All we need to do is make it so that raising the switch connects the two wires we solder to it. So let's take a peek and see how we can do that.
Turn the plastic piece so the switches face the floor. You'll see two small tabs on one side holding the PCB down, and one large tab on the other side. Push the small tabs gently so you can lift and remove the PCB. Be careful doing this; the switches are not held in by anything, and you do not want to lose any, so keep the plastic piece level. Set the plastic piece with all switches aside for now.
Look at the side of the PCB that faced the sliding switches. It is easy to see which set of pads was for the 'slow' switch, SW1. It's the only one that has no traces going to the square pad in the upper right. That's because it only goes up one click. The middle right pad is the one we're concerned with. The left side pad is entirely connected to ground. Each of those pairs of solder points on the sides is for one of the original buttons, and one of each pair is connected to ground. So, all we need to do is connect the middle right pad to one of the traces normally meant for a button. Confused yet?
Turn the PCB over and take a peek at the real guts of the board. That single chip controls everything when its plugged into a Playstation. It's a shame, but we just don't need it any more. In order to make sure we don't mess up anything, it's best if we remove this chip.
Take some soldering flux, and apply it across all of the pins. Lay down some copper braid over top of the pins, and apply a hot soldering iron. The heat with melt the solder, the flux will help it flow, and the copper braid will suck it up. You may have to go a couple of times over each set of pins, but we're not too concerned with the chip surviving, or most of the PCB surviving for that matter. See the section of pins marked 1-12? Those are the ones we want. All the rest can get torn to hell and it won't matter.
Desolder and remove the capacitor as well.
Now that the IC and capacitor are out of the way. we need to do some trace hunting. Follow the trace from the middle right pad all of the way to the via it uses in the middle. Remember which of those holes was the via we want, flip the board over, and continue to follow it. On mine, it was connected to pin 8. Remember the number yours ends up at.
Now, we need to find a trace of one of the soldering points so we have a strong place to connect the wires. Right next to the pin we found earlier, 8, is 9. Follow the trace to the via and through the other side to see where it ends up. One mine, it ends up at one of the solder points just like we want, at 'CN3'. Perfect.
When the 'slow' switch is pushed up, it connects pin 9 to ground. If we make a connection between pin 8 and pin 9, then the two wires soldered in the 'CN3' spot will be connected when the switch is up, and not connected when the switch is down. That's exactly what we want.
You can try to be careful and use a small piece of wire, but I was lacking in patience and just connected pin 8 and 9 with a blob of solder. Use sparingly though; some of those pins are connected to ground, and if you short pin 8 to ground with solder here, it won't work. I'll act like the button is always pressed.
Before we package it all up, let's make sure the solder blob did its job. Take a multimeter, and check both of the solder points on CN3. They should NOT be connected. Take one end of the probe, and touch it to the big left side pad of SW1. Use the other probe on both of the CN3 solder points. It's should show connection with the right most pad, and no connection with the left most pad. Good. If it shows connection to both, then you're solder blob connected it to a ground pin. Desolder the blob and try again.
Now put one probe on the middle right pad of SW1, and test the connections with the other probe to both pads of CN3. It should show connection with the left, and not the right. If so, you did it. If it doesn't show connection with either, then your solder blob did not connect pin 8 and pin 9. Try again.
Now that the crafted short circuit is in place, take two lengths of wire, about 8" in length, and solder them to the two CN3 solder pads.
Reassemble the PCB back into the plastic piece with the slide switches. Once the PCB is in secure, turn it over and grab your multimeter for a final test. The two wires should show no connection when the 'slow' slide is down, and show connection when it's up. If so, your program switch is ready.
These two wires need to be connected to the UPCB in the RB5 location. You can solder them in directly, or use a header and connector like I did.
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