Soldering is generally pretty straight forward. You actually don't need any solder for the motherboard end, as the holes all have solder in them. So you just need need to heat it up and slide the wire through. I suggest using at least a 30w iron as a 15w will have trouble getting the lead free solder hot enough. All resistors on the connector are optional, it's just to prevent damage as some ports are 5v and the motherboard is 3.3v.
Here are some bigger pictures
Xenon
All others
Recently there has been a new way to wire Xenons that is supposed to be better, I have never tried it but I have included the diagram on how to wire it.
New Xenon
look me up in facey.. username xboxsc
http://forums.xbox-scene.com/index.php?showtopic=719652
You need, in total,
5x 100 ohm resistors (for LPT)
2x 10 000 ohm resistors
2x 2n3904 transistors
a db-25 male connector (for LPT)
1x 1n4148 diode (for LPT)
acording from my link below and my LPT port, when looking from the FRONT pin 1 is on the top right...
ever JTAG picture i've seen, including the one above, pin 1 is on the top right when looking from the BACK... why is this? I'm wondering if that's why it is failing for me...
http://www.doc.ic.ac.uk/~ih/doc/par/pinout.gif
Most pin-outs show the rear pin-out as that is the side where the wires need to be soldered (so pin 1 is UR). The front will be the mirror image of the rear.
Here is another JTAG with some pics of the actual connector:
http://mod360s.com/jtag.html?start=1
Also- most D-shell connectors should have (very tiny) pin numbers printed (at least for pin #s 1, 13, 14 and 25) on the backplate that holds the pins.
I've got it to flash, but it wont boot, i can flash the original nand back to the xbox and it boots, i've tried flashing the modified one several times like suggested and it still wont boot...