How to Lubricate a Lock Using Graphite From a Pencil

How to Lubricate a Lock Using Graphite From a Pencil
Powdered graphite is the traditional material for lubricating pin tumbler locks. You can even buy powdered graphite that comes in a little tube with a thin nozzle specially designed for squirting the graphite powder into the keyway. Also you can buy powdered graphite in an aerosol spray, again a product intended specifically for lubricating locks. You just stick the plastic hose in the keyway and press the squirt button. What could be easier than that?

Well, this instructable assumes for some reason you don't have access to any of these modern conveniences like graphite-in-a-spray-can, and the only graphite you happen to have with you is in pencil-form.

Items needed for this instructable:
a lock that you own, or have permission to use
a key that opens that lock
a pencil (containing graphite)
 
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Step 1Separate the graphite from the pencil somehow.

Separate the graphite from the pencil somehow.
If the pencil you've got is one of the mechanical variety, getting the graphite, also called "lead", out of it will be easy. Maybe too easy.

If the pencil is one of the old fashioned wooden types, then removing the graphite takes a little more work.

I recommend using a sharp knife. Use the knife to whittle away the wood surrounding the graphite. I realize I didn't explicitly mention a knife in the "stuff you will need" section, but then I just naturally assumed you'd have some kind of cutting tool with you. Most civilized people do. What happened? Did those goons at the airport "confiscate" it? Well, uh, if you don't have a knife, I suppose you can use your teeth or a sharp rock, or something.

Anyway, keep whittling until you have a good sized chunk of graphite. How much? I dunno. You want a good-sized chunk? Maybe an inch, maybe 2 cm? That's l. r = 1 mm. Volume of the chunk is pi*r2*l = approximately 60 microliters.

Those of you using the little sticks for a 0.5 mm mechanical pencil will have to adjust the recipe a little to get the same volume of graphite. You know, use your algebra skills: find the new l based on a new r. I'll leave that as an exercise for the reader.

Of course, all you really need is a good-sized chunk.

Also try to make sure this chunk of graphite is free of little pieces of wood sticking to it. You want to put graphite in the lock, not wood.

Now at this point you might be worried because the graphite is in chunk form, not powdered, but I assure you there is no need to be worried. The powdering action happens in the next few steps.
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20 comments
Aug 7, 2011. 1:57 PMeelco_g says:
Would toner from a laser printer work? I think that's graphite too.
Oct 23, 2011. 1:28 PMdll932 says:
Toner has some kind of polyester in it and it isn't good to breath. It's also even messier than graphite and more expensive per pound.
May 16, 2008. 12:34 PMbhunter736 says:
Good instructable. : ) Im a locksmith and I can say that this will work for a lot of locks. If you do not have success, you should use a spray lubricant like Tri-Flo. Nothing with silicone, it will eventually gum up the lock, so no WD-40. Keep in mind, if your pieces are too big to start, it will be hard to force the key to break them up. By the way, just because I am a locksmith and understand that this will work doesnt mean I offer any warranty to anyone who tries this. Level of success will depend on the person performing the task to some degree.
Aug 7, 2011. 12:24 PMdeathsmileyinc says:
i use WD-40 for my bike locks because they alway stay outside and as i recall wd-40 also prevents rust. does it really prevents rust and if not does graphite?
Oct 20, 2009. 11:09 AMsharlston says:
read the side of a wd40 can it says no silicone since wd40 was first made in 1940
Oct 20, 2009. 12:45 PMbhunter736 says:
Good to know - thanks.  I don't think that label used to be there, although I have not read the ingredients on WD40 in many years.  However, it is still not preferred for locks by many locksmiths including myself.  In a totally dry environment, I will use graphite and everywhere else I prefer Tri-Flo.
Oct 23, 2011. 1:26 PMdll932 says:
Believe it or not the active ingredient in WD 40 is fish oil. WD stands for Water Displacement, so that's why it helps prevent rust. It will also dissolve gummed-up oil. I happen to like Tri-Flo and Corrosion-X as well.

The thing about graphite is it was first used when locks had large sliding parts with lots of clearance-unlike lock cylinders, which are fairly tightly miked. It would be OK if you only used it ONCE, but I've seen cylinders so packed with graphite the pins wouldn't move (I've been a locksmith for about 30 years).

What I like about the ultra lightweight spray oils (NOT silicone or PBlaster penetrant-though they do make a lubricant as well) is they tend to prevent freezing in low temperatures and will loosen up gummy locks. Finally, WD40 is available nearly everwhere and you can't overuse it...although you'll pull out graphite on the key if there's some already in the lock, so watch your hands and clothes.

Some high-security locks like Medeco are so tightly miked you can ONLY use something like WD40, or they'll jam up quick!
May 16, 2008. 12:35 PMbhunter736 says:
One more thing, dont lock yourself out. Always do something like this with the door open, not just unlocked, open. If you goof it up you can still get in and out.
Aug 7, 2011. 8:21 AMallen says:
Hmmm, interesting idea. Less messy then liquid graphite and quick.

One thought though. I think mechanical pencil lead might be even easier since it comes in such thin sticks. Slide three or four .2 millimeter bits of mechanical pencil lead in the lock should be easy and it'll certainly break up easily enough.
Aug 7, 2011. 1:03 AMaristide202 says:
easier results with a soft pencil , best a 2B if you have one , graphite looks e little darker an greasy . Check easily drawing something on paper.
Oct 20, 2009. 11:08 AMsharlston says:
i spray a bit of wd40 into the lock but i might use this method aswell csn it be used on pdlocks?
Jul 18, 2008. 9:00 AMPhocian says:
Use the softer leads. The hard-lead pencils are hardened with ground quartz, that is, sand. I would think the sand would eat the innards of the lock after a while.
May 24, 2008. 2:18 PMpharmer1 says:
Awesome instructable. It worked like a charm on my old stubborn locks, they now glide like new. Thanks for sharing.
May 17, 2008. 4:56 PMGorillazMiko says:
Nicely done Instructable, I'll hopefully remember to show this to my dad if needed. Hope to see more Instructables!
May 15, 2008. 12:07 PMCornflower says:
What about penciling in the key? rub the graphite on the key, a lot, into the grooves and along the enges. It might be a bit slower, but avoids any problem of a piece getting stuck in there...
May 15, 2008. 9:11 AMbustedit says:
Ingenius! Working the key in the hole is enough to grind the lead? Is there any way that a piece could migrate somewhere the key doesnt go and stop the lock from working properly?
May 14, 2008. 4:02 PMLinuxH4x0r says:
Cool! I'll try this on some old locks and then maybe my house and car
May 14, 2008. 9:27 AMlamedust says:
(removed by author or community request)

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Author:Jack A Lopez
I've built some weird stuff over the years, but most of that stuff has remained unseen by the world outside of me and a few friends. But then one day, one of these friends, he says to me, "Hey Jack, ...
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