I made this copier recently, based on a digital camera and a stand. I dig it. I also made a few modifications, one of which I show in this instructable.
The digital camera I use runs on 2,000 AA batteries, though it uses only 2 at the time. But it eats through these things. It laughed at rechargeables. It cleared 8 batteries in its first day of service. I’ve read that sadly, that’s not abnormal. It’s a good camera, but the cost of batteries was going to render this project prohibitively expensive to operate.
There is no DC input adapter to use an AC power source with it, and my search for how to add one left me frustrated — the few walkthroughs I could find were good, but would require MASSIVE modification to the camera given its size.
So, I had this idea, put it together quickly, and it worked. The goal is simply to run the wire ends from an AC adapter to the contact points in the camera. Almost no modification to the camera [just enough to let the wires through], very inexpensive, and quick to make, simple, and effective.
I didn’t find any instructable or even blog written about this concept. I independently discovered and engineered the solution I will show you. There are likely better ways. Please tell me of your improvements in the comments. If this is your idea, let me know so I can credit you.
*** Obviously this will likely void your warranty. It is intended for devices WITHOUT an AC adapter socket. If your device has one, by all means use that.
The digital camera I use runs on 2,000 AA batteries, though it uses only 2 at the time. But it eats through these things. It laughed at rechargeables. It cleared 8 batteries in its first day of service. I’ve read that sadly, that’s not abnormal. It’s a good camera, but the cost of batteries was going to render this project prohibitively expensive to operate.
There is no DC input adapter to use an AC power source with it, and my search for how to add one left me frustrated — the few walkthroughs I could find were good, but would require MASSIVE modification to the camera given its size.
So, I had this idea, put it together quickly, and it worked. The goal is simply to run the wire ends from an AC adapter to the contact points in the camera. Almost no modification to the camera [just enough to let the wires through], very inexpensive, and quick to make, simple, and effective.
I didn’t find any instructable or even blog written about this concept. I independently discovered and engineered the solution I will show you. There are likely better ways. Please tell me of your improvements in the comments. If this is your idea, let me know so I can credit you.
*** Obviously this will likely void your warranty. It is intended for devices WITHOUT an AC adapter socket. If your device has one, by all means use that.
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Signing UpStep 1: Tools Needed
What you’ll need:
AC Adapter (I used the universal kind. This turned out to be REALLY useful for me as I’ll explain later). An old one lying around that’s of the right voltage and amperage would be fine.
Batteries for the device you’re wanting to power. In my case, that’s 2 x AA batteries.
The device you’re wanting to power. In my case, a little digital camera.
A pair of small, short screws. Just about anything you have in your tool box will work.
A screwdriver
A saw (apartment = handsaw, even though I want my circular saw).
Sandpaper/sanding block
Wire cutters / strippers
Dowel of proper diameter (this is on you. Also, it’s ok if it’s a little too small. It’ll work. Too big and you have to shave it or it won’t work).
Drill
Vice (or drill/drill press)
Marker/Pen/Something
***** CAUTION ***** You’re not an idiot. You are dealing with electricity, sharp things, heavy things, and heavy sharp things that use electricity. Be careful. I didn’t hurt myself, and that’s saying something.
AC Adapter (I used the universal kind. This turned out to be REALLY useful for me as I’ll explain later). An old one lying around that’s of the right voltage and amperage would be fine.
Batteries for the device you’re wanting to power. In my case, that’s 2 x AA batteries.
The device you’re wanting to power. In my case, a little digital camera.
A pair of small, short screws. Just about anything you have in your tool box will work.
A screwdriver
A saw (apartment = handsaw, even though I want my circular saw).
Sandpaper/sanding block
Wire cutters / strippers
Dowel of proper diameter (this is on you. Also, it’s ok if it’s a little too small. It’ll work. Too big and you have to shave it or it won’t work).
Drill
Vice (or drill/drill press)
Marker/Pen/Something
***** CAUTION ***** You’re not an idiot. You are dealing with electricity, sharp things, heavy things, and heavy sharp things that use electricity. Be careful. I didn’t hurt myself, and that’s saying something.
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I have a variation of the AC powered "battery." One piece supplies power and the other pieces are conductors. Even though the voltage is underestimated, it's not an issue when my LED lamp is current regulated but the regulator does get very hot dropping 3 or 4 volts at 0.7 A.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Using-a-DC-Adapter-as-a-Battery/
Thanks for the help, here's a photo of my completed project:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/exolucere/4756272919/
I am SO happy with this, I could give you a big smooch!
I found a variable voltage switching regulated supply for $10 http://www.allelectronics.com/make-a-store/item/PS-10/1-AMP-SWITCHING-POWER-SUPPLY-w/SELECTABLE-OUTPUT//1.html
A switching supply will draw negligible power when there is no load. Non-switching will always draw power, regardless of whether the device is connected.
I was going to write this EXACT instructable in just a couple of days when I finished MY camera scanner. Bravo on beating me to the punch. :D
If you don't mind, I'd like to add a couple of tips and differences from my build to hopefully enhance the overall project, which really is a great one.
1) 1/2" dowels = AA batteries, 3/8" dowels = AAA batteries.
2) I used brass round headed machine screws on mine since brass screws are often used to clamp down wires. I don't know if this makes any difference at all, but it seemed like a good idea and won't have any corrosion issues.
3) I made mine exactly the length of AA batteries. I cut the dowel slightly shorter to include the screw head in that length. I just tape the battery door of my camera closed while letting the wires protrude.
4) I didn't drill holes through mine for the wire. I just wrapped the wire under the head of the screw, tightened it down, and let the wire stay on the outside. That way I could install these in different positions in various devices if I want. I was going to cut slits in the sides of the dowels to better accommodate the wires, though, that will have to be for the next time I build one.
5) I didn't wire my adapters directly into the AC adapter, because I didn't want to cut the wires. So I did this (requires easy soldering):
a) I bought a DC power jack from Radio Shack for a couple of bucks. They have them back in their drawers of little electronic components. I wasn't too picky about which one I got, because I knew my would AC adapter would have some tip to fit it.
b) I located the terminals on the back of the jack that I wanted to use. There should be a diagram on the back of the DC jack container. For mine, the furthest peg from the center connected to the center pin, which I planned to use as my positive.
My jack was one the types that has three terminals, so that it can switch between onboard power and external power for a device depending on whether the DC plug is inserted or not. You don't need that capability here, but it made finding the proper negative pin harder. What I did was to insert the proper sized plug into my AC adapter so that it was oriented with the center positive. Then I plugged the DC plug into my jack and the adapter into the wall. Then I took a voltmeter and tested between my positive jack pin and the other two to see which one registered a voltage when the plug was inserted. That determined my negative pin.
c) Then I just soldered the wires from the positive and negative "batteries" to their proper pins on the jack. You can find soldering advice all of the net and all the necessary tools and materials also at Radio Shack.
There we go, you've got an adapter with which you can plug and unplug your AC adapter without having to destroy anything. And it does work swimmingly.
Great Instructable! I'm glad this little helpful little project is available to everyone now. Good job!
Oh, one more thing.
This device isn't limited to 2 battery, 3V devices.
You can use it to replace any number of batteries as long as you adjust your voltage on the ac adapter. You don't need to make additional "batteries" either.
For instance, a device that takes 4 AAs, AAAs, Cs, or Ds would need to have the adapter set to 6 Volts (4 batteries x 1.5 volts a piece).
The caveat with replacing more than two batteries, though, is that you must determine which terminals in the device's battery holder actually connect back to the device itself. Many of them will wire directly to the next battery to chain them in series. This may require opening up the device to look at the wiring connections.
Trial and error may work also. The circuit shouldn't be completed and actually work until the wooden "batteries" are both connected to the proper in and out terminals of the battery holder. Just make sure you don't connect any positives to negatives or vice versa!
Haven't tried this, yet, but it should be fine according the site I once found that described how to make these things that I've never been able to find again. :D
I was impressed many years ago when a furnace repairman replaced the 24 volt transformer on a household furnace's thermostat control circuit. He included an in-line fuse that would blow if there were any shorts that might damage the transformer. I always like to double-check the output of a power supply with a voltmeter before connecting it to a circuit so I do not damage the circuit.