If you like this project you can check our blog, www.karapaslaydesigns.blogspot.com, for more DIY Design Ideas and more!
-2X10 wood boards
-turnbuckles (the number depends on how many shelves you want). You'll need 2 for every shelf
- steel cable
- ferrules and stops (the pieces you crip on the cable)
-a swaging tool (the tool that crimps the ferrules and stops)
- thimbles (the metal loop things)
-(2) 1 1/2 eye hooks
You'll also need a drill and possibly some wall anchors.
Step 1: Cut your boards to length and return the ends... or not.
Second, I didn't want the end grain to show, so I returned the ends to the wall. This is the same technique you will see carpenters use when they want/need to stop moulding in the middle of a wall. To me it is these details that make the difference in a project, but is certainly not a necessity if you don't have the tools (a large miter saw and nail guns) or time to worry about it. (In hindsight, I think I would probably skip this step. I don't think it makes a big enough difference to enough people to justify the extra time and complication, but if your a perfectionist have at it)
I cut the very ends of my board at a 45 degree angle.
Then I flipped the triangles I created so the end grain would now face the back of my shelf.
I glued the joint.
Then shot them together with 16 gauge 2 1/2" nails.
Step 2: Stain and Seal the Shelves
Of course all the cutting, staining, ect went on outside in our driveway. You can see from this picture why we need a shop space so badly. Our poor neighbors always have to see our projects sitting half done, junking up our carport. Sorry, we're working on that neighbor friends.
Step 3: Drill the Holes in Your Shelves
Now, in order to prevent the shelves from sliding up and down the cable I used a metal stop (pictured, but more on that later). I didn't want these stops to be visible when looking at the piece, so I used a spade bit to drill a slightly larger hole on the bottom side of each shelf. This way the stop would sit up inside the wood and be concealed.
Of course you want to be careful that you don't drill too far and you want both sides to be drilled evenly. To do this, simply place a piece of tape on your spade bit and when the tape nears the top of the wood, you know to stop.
As long as you can still see your drill bit below your tape you keep going.
But when the tape meets the wood, STOP!
And here's what it should look like when you're finished.
Step 4: Use your swag tool to create the loops by crimping the ferrule
Measuring is very important in this DIY because you want to make sure your shelves don't hang crooked. Luckily, the turnbuckles give a little bit of play and should cover most minor discrepancies.
You will need two pieces of cable for each shelf. The finished length of your cable plus the length of your turnbuckle will equal the space between your shelves, so figure out your spacing before you start cutting your cable.
You can go ahead and make the loop on one end of each cable. I decided to use a thimble to give the loops some shape and to prevent them from creasing under a heavy load, but for most units they probably aren't necessary. You will need to use a ferrule to create your loops. You will slide the ferrule on the cable and loop the end around the thimble and place the end back in the other side of the ferrule. Once everything is in place you will use the swaging tool to crimp the ferrule in two places.
I have included a close up picture of the ferrule and then also a close up of the cable wrapping around the thimble and being secured by the crimped thimble.
Step 5: Add the Stops and Finish the Loops
Next you will need to slide the cable into place in the shelf. Be sure to put it with the stop on the bottom of the shelf so it is concealed. Now you can crimp the other end just like the first loop.
You will follow these steps for all of your shelves except the bottom one. It will just need one loop and a stop. (You won't need a loop on the bottom since you won't be hanging another shelf underneath it.)
Step 6: Hang the Shelves
**We are lucky enough to have 1x6's behind all of our drywall so I didn't have to worry about hitting a stud or adding anchors, but most likely you will, so think about this before you start drilling the holes in the back of each shelf and plan accordingly**
At the very top of the shelves I attached the large eye bolts to carry most of the weight of the shelves. Please make sure you find a secure spot to place these. At the very top of most walls there are two 2x4's stacked that run horizontally. This is great spot to test and can help you avoid having your layout determined by the spacing of your studs.
You will start installing the shelves at the top and work your way down. Be sure to adjust each turnbuckle to make sure your shelves stay level before adding the next shelf. Whenever you adjust the turnbuckle it will adjust everything below it so it is best to have them set before you move on to the next one.
Step 7: Put Things on Your Shelves
There's also a lot going on in this corner of the room with our media console, so keeping things minimal was the best choice.
There it is. I know the instructions might be a bit hard to follow, but I have faith with a little tinkering you will be able to create something similar yourself.