I had the idea for these shelves rolling around in my head for a while. My wife asked me to build some storage in our living room and I told her about my idea. She wasn't jazzed about it, because she said she was having a tough time envisioning it. I told her to trust me and built them anyway. Thankfully she ended up loving them.
If you like this project you can check our blog, www.karapaslaydesigns.blogspot.com, for more DIY Design Ideas and more!
-2X10 wood boards
-turnbuckles (the number depends on how many shelves you want). You'll need 2 for every shelf
- steel cable
- ferrules and stops (the pieces you crip on the cable)
-a swaging tool (the tool that crimps the ferrules and stops)
- thimbles (the metal loop things)
-(2) 1 1/2 eye hooks
You'll also need a drill and possibly some wall anchors.
If you like this project you can check our blog, www.karapaslaydesigns.blogspot.com, for more DIY Design Ideas and more!
-2X10 wood boards
-turnbuckles (the number depends on how many shelves you want). You'll need 2 for every shelf
- steel cable
- ferrules and stops (the pieces you crip on the cable)
-a swaging tool (the tool that crimps the ferrules and stops)
- thimbles (the metal loop things)
-(2) 1 1/2 eye hooks
You'll also need a drill and possibly some wall anchors.
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Signing UpStep 1: Cut your boards to length and return the ends... or not.
First, I started off with some 2X10 Douglas fir boards. I cut them down to our desired length, which happened to be 30 inches in our case.
Second, I didn't want the end grain to show, so I returned the ends to the wall. This is the same technique you will see carpenters use when they want/need to stop moulding in the middle of a wall. To me it is these details that make the difference in a project, but is certainly not a necessity if you don't have the tools (a large miter saw and nail guns) or time to worry about it. (In hindsight, I think I would probably skip this step. I don't think it makes a big enough difference to enough people to justify the extra time and complication, but if your a perfectionist have at it)
I cut the very ends of my board at a 45 degree angle.
Then I flipped the triangles I created so the end grain would now face the back of my shelf.
I glued the joint.
Then shot them together with 16 gauge 2 1/2" nails.
Second, I didn't want the end grain to show, so I returned the ends to the wall. This is the same technique you will see carpenters use when they want/need to stop moulding in the middle of a wall. To me it is these details that make the difference in a project, but is certainly not a necessity if you don't have the tools (a large miter saw and nail guns) or time to worry about it. (In hindsight, I think I would probably skip this step. I don't think it makes a big enough difference to enough people to justify the extra time and complication, but if your a perfectionist have at it)
I cut the very ends of my board at a 45 degree angle.
Then I flipped the triangles I created so the end grain would now face the back of my shelf.
I glued the joint.
Then shot them together with 16 gauge 2 1/2" nails.
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I don't suppose you have an instructable for that chest of drawers just to the left?
Maybe?
Would you make another one for the lamp piece in the picture? that looks nice too!
My 2 cents. Of course, it's, like, my opinion, man.
How about a screw into each end or up from below, angled to hold the wood to the wall? Rebate the head so its not visible.
Good thing is this shelf couldn't fall on you, and doesn't use any floor space.
It is surprising how much pressure towards the wall the design provides. It takes quite a pull to get any movement away from the wall. It definitely wouldn't hurt to add pockets screws into the wall, but I am not worried enough to bother with it. I won't be storing antique china or crystal on it though.
In step 3, I'd be reluctant to drill the hole exactly on the joint, or I would use dowels to make a stronger joint. Also, I'd add a washer on each stopper to prevent it from sinking into the wood.
I actually purchased washers to place on top of the stops, but when I put them in place the difference in surface area between the two was negligible so I didn't bother adding them. You could certainly chose an even larger washer if necessary.
As for looks, well thats 1/2 the project.
With this design almost all of the weight is carried by the eye bolts, so the whole thing is only as strong as this anchor point. If you were to pull on the shelf away from the wall it would be a problem, but without any little ones running around our house I feel confident with them.
We like the industrial look of the unit, but also understand that is a personal preference. Thanks checking this out.