Check out new video of the Plasanator on utube.com


This Ebook is designed for Guys and Gals who like to create tools and machinery.

I hope my Ebook gives you hope that no matter how hard a project may seem, keep plugging away until you finish and you will succeed.

I spent 3 years putting this together and now finally all my hard work and research has paid off.

I studied diagrams from commercial venders, but to no luck. They tend to leave a lot out – on purpose - so it’s hard to reproduce their design. I’ve see different attempts at people making their own on You Tube and other sites, but what a death trap. Messy water resistors and wiring like a darn Christmas tree.

So I began reading books and articles on their workings and took my home schooled-knowledge of electronics to build my own plasma cutter. I was determined; failure was not an option.

I started by collecting parts from old microwaves, stoves, water heaters, air conditioners, car parts and more in the hopes of creating a low budget way to create a plasma cutter for myself. I mounted it all on a simple piece of scrap wood; well it’s scrap wood now. We, didn’t need that table anyway (shhhhhhh don’t tell the wife).

Then one day it all came together. I hit the power switch, placed the head to the metal, started the arc, felt the air kick and then a second hard kick (the current being drawn into play). Then BAM, it was slicing through quarter inch steel like a hot knife through butter.

How sweet it sounded! I felt the amazement of completing a project that I just couldn’t let go of.

So, take your time, enjoy and be safe.

The Plasaman

Step 1: Assembly

When I started assembling my cutter, I began with taking a good look at my parts. As shown in Section 5 and Section 6, my parts are laid out so I can begin checking off from my parts list. Once this was accomplished, I would study each the parts pictorial to get familiar with each part/component and they would be placed.

The next step was to study my schematic and create a layout diagram. My board layout diagram is the most valuable piece in the building, repairing, and modifying process of my cutter.

As I began mounting my parts, I organized my board into four sections. Those sections are Power Control, High Current DC, Low Voltage DC and High Voltage Arc Start.

Power Control
3KVA step down transformer and contactor. The transformer is mounted off board because it is big and heavy, as you can see in Section 13. The contactor became my first part on the board. I wired it so when the head trigger is pressed, it turns the contactor on and allows my DC components to come on line. Then I began with my next system, High Current DC.

High Current DC
Bridge Rectifier
Large Capacitors
Reed Switch (which I used as a current sensor), what it does is allow the high voltage arc system to fire and as soon as high current starts to travel to the head and cutting starts it shuts down the high voltage arc system while cutting since it’s not needed at this point.
If you lose your fire it restarts the arc and gets you going again automatically.
My next system was placed on board.

Low Voltage DC
The low voltage DC components are mixed with power switch and 120 volt terminals.
Power Switch
120-volt terminal blocks
12 volt transformer
Low voltage bridge rectifier
Auto relays
Terminal strip, 4 position is all I needed but 5 position was what I had in my toy box.

High Voltage Arc Start
Microwave capacitor or run capacitor, a household dimmer switch rated for 15 amps. A Ford or Chevy ignition coil. I used the Chevy on this cutter. As you can see, I have terminals to all parts that get an external connection outside of their system so all I have to do is run a piece of wire in-between. Now look at the pictorial of board mounted parts in Section 11. It shows all the wires on the board, but here you can see all terminals and parts mounted, as I wanted. When wiring all my components, I used my Chevy board layout diagram to run my wires.

I checked and re checked all wires before mounting external parts. If you go to the final wiring section, you will also find pictures of my rigging of these parts. I could have done it many different ways, but this is what I chose at this time.

It took me about 3 hours of procrastination to finally assemble it all. You know how it is on a project, once you are ready with all your parts, your mind starts giving you a million ways of doing something. And, at last you just pick a way and go with it.

Once I got it all together, I connected my air tank hose and put the pressure setting at 28 for a safe point to start. I fired it up and BAM - that baby didn’t need any more adjusting. It was cutting!

You can imagine all the relief and pride I felt when the Plasanator started kicking ass. Yea, I said it Kicking Ass Baby. Oops Wife just told me I need to stop, hee hee and for all you creators – ah ah ah ahhhhhh.

I hope you enjoyed riding along with me in my journey.

Take care and be safe.

The Plasmaman


Forgive me if this questions has been asked before, but I am in ths uk and we have 13amp at 230 volt, so do i need that 110v 3kva transformer?
no you do not
<p>thanks for your wonderful work。</p><p>but there is a QUESTION!</p><p>what&lsquo;s the heater element for ?in this design。</p><p>hope anyone could help me with that question, thanks!</p><p>sorry , i am not good at electric thing 。</p>
<p>it adds resistance to the circuit.</p>
<p>Works great!</p><p>With a higher pressure and a HV capacitor (1,5 nF) in the output of flyback finally my the plasma cutter is working perfectly. I will not publish a picture of my creature because it's only a lot of wires on the floor. Soon as assemble it properly i will post some photos.<br>Thank you Plasanator!<br><br>Plasma cutter video!<br><iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="281" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/F1l72neIPyQ" width="500"></iframe></p>
<p>Congratulations!!! Super great don't it feel good?</p><p>Would you mind if I put your video on my site?</p>
<p>Yes. I'm feeling like a boy with brand new toy.<br>Feel free to use any of my videos on your site.</p>
<p>My plasma cutter (almost) works! Unfortunately the plasma do not start when i press the button. My arc starter is made of a TV FLYBACK with the positive HV wire is connected in external tip of the torch and the negative HV connected with the (-) high current in the interior of the torch.<br>I have to scratch the torch several times to iniciate the plasma and finally cut something.<br>Please any help or suggestion will be welcome!<br>I WILL NEVER GIVE UP UNTIL MY PLASMA CUTTER BE WORKING 100%.</p><p>Tks All!</p>
make sure electrode has negative and work clamp is positive like dc welder on reverse<br><br>adjust air to 70 psi.<br><br>Let me know how it goes and what voltage are you using 120 or 220?
<p>Hi Joe Eichholz,<br>Yes the work clamp is positive and the electrode is negative.<br>I will try with 70 psi of pressure i was using 40 psi or less. I have small air compressor!<br>I builded with 120V AC inlet and the voltage doubler. I measured +/- 320V DC.<br>I'm using 6&Omega; resistor and 10.000uf capacitors.<br>I need high power hv to start the plasma? The flyback system have only 24W.<br><br>Thanks for helping. I will post the results soon.</p>
<p>Hi I wish to work on the modification of the work you have done. So I get the opportunity to work on it. I wish to get the documents or any material regarding the project. If yes I wish to get your e-mail. Thank you</p>
<p>thanks </p>
<p>thanks </p>
<p>very nice,what are the specs of the bridge rectifier the you used</p>
<p>According to the parts list, it's 700V, 50A or higher.</p>
Thanks<br>I didn't get parts list a few other pages first time i download. But have it now.now trying to find plans for a good 240-240 isolation transformer
<p>you can just make a plasma cutter out of 200 9v batteries but i think yours is better</p>
very cool I am thinking of building a external add on for the on board welder I will be installing in my truck and it could also be used on my shop set that way just set the welder for tig and hook up a line from the air compressor. plasma cutting sure beats using a Sawzall
I believe in you<br>
<p>Will this work as I had imagined it? When the first capacitor charging, the triac is opened on the second capacitor and sends electricity to the torch. When it comes second peroid of ac line then the triac is closed and the capacitor starts charging, then triac opens on the other capacicator and sends electricity to the torch, and so constantly in the circle. When the capacitor discharges he has no contact with the AC source because the triac is closed. Then the capacitor acts like a battery and is isolated from the source, at least that's what I imagined in my head. </p>
<p>hello can u tell my what thickness can u cut whit it</p><p>yhx</p>
<p>Good morning. Could you please help me with a question. In this moment I can't get a big transformer as 3kva. My question is, it is possible to work without the transformer, because I have the two voltage in my home. 110v and 220v. Thanks</p>
<p>240 is highest you want to go because the caps would be very expensive.</p><p>There is no book that I know of to help.</p>
Yes but use a 50 amp breaker to fuse it.
<p>Thank you. Excuse me. Is there any book that you can recommend me to investigate in a deeper way. For example. I have 120, 220, and 440v in my home, so i would like to build a machine to cut 1 inch. Obviously, I don't have a transformer, but I have many voltaje options. Could you please give any advice in order to make a very powerful machine. Greetings from Ecuador.</p>
<p>The heater element is your load resister that draws the current needed to cut with.</p>
<p>excuse my ignorance, that serves the water heater element</p>
<p>i want to know that too!</p>
<p>Nice project. Have you ever measured the current drawn by the arc? Or measured the arc current over time? I would be rather interested in that infomation. Thanks :)<br><br>AN observation. Page 22 of your ebook High Current side wiring. <br><br>Disconnect the wire from the contactor to the C on the bridge rectifier at point C. Then connect it to the center of the two reservoir capacitors.</p><p>Remove the wire from the center of the capacitors to C.</p><p>This modification takes the circuit to a classic voltage doubler.</p>
<p>google the ESAB HANDY PLASMA 125 manual it has more of the ignition arc circuit diagram on it than others that I have seen. I love the brilliant simplicity of your solutions. From a safety point of view a bleeder resistor on the two capacitors to bleed the High Voltage capacitors. Say 5K 15 watt</p>
<p>Sorry you have a great instructable but I still have a few questions. For example why do you have a large heating resistor, what purpose does it serve? Also whats the voltage for starting the arc, and what voltage are you using to sustain it? Also why do you have capacitors what is it they help with? I'm sorry if these are basic questions I just don't understand all the theory for how to design a cutter.</p>
<p>Why do you put arc tip to the torch on outside and not to + work clamp?</p>
<p>I have one side to tip and other is connected to clamp inside</p>
<p>any thoughts on modifying a stock DC inverter welder like a cheap Harbor freight to function as a plasma cutter?</p><p>Nice instructable</p>
<p>If the voltages are the same as regular welder it wont work, need higher voltages.</p><p>If they are at least 300 coming out it will.</p>
<p>No reason go for it.</p><p>The idea is to use what you can afford and find,</p>
<p>any reason not to use a simple furnace oil burner module for the arc start? I think it would be more reliable and cheaper </p>
This is so helpful, Sir, thank you for sharing your hard earned knowledge. My buddy and I are in the collecting parts phase, and this is already very helpful. Thanks again! <br><br>PS: I'm sure I'll be back with questions at some point, hope you don't mind!
<p>Hello,</p><p>please, have you some plans of Plasanator (5)? I need something with little more cutting power. </p>
<p>im working on but soon.</p>
<p>Is it possible to use two 6kW heating elements with 230V?</p>
<p>should work fine.</p>
<p>Still working on them want them to be perfect for this will be my last version.</p>
<p>this is awesome, im a little hung on the ins n outs as of right now but i will research as you did , i reckon i will need a different circuit as we use a higher voltage in england. good work for pioneering for us all and sharing that :D </p>
<p>what voltage do you use? if its 220or 240 it will work great.</p>
<p>YOU ROCK! (Or cut )with style! This is great, gotta a extra one of you? Anyway thanks for this inspiration, I'm not smart enough to create this, but I love that other hard working people are!</p>
<p>Correct me if I am wrong, but wouldn't something like this work? T1-3 are microwave oven transformers. If we wind these for 200v each, the rectification should push the voltage to almost 300v to charge the caps. C2 dumps through T4 to ignite plasma and C1 can then discharge through the plasma. I would imagine with 3000uf, it should maintain continuos discharge with 15 amps even if only 60hz. I used 3 ac mains so that no breakers blow. The air flow and fan could be easily incorporated into the schematic I just didn't find any symbols for them.</p><p>What do you guys think?</p>
<p>Sorry I mean to say the total voltage output is 200v from the transformers not 200v each. I'm really tired right now :O</p>

About This Instructable




Bio: Hi I'm Joe and welcome. I love to make Homemade Tools & More. I will have many things to put on the instructables for you ... More »
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