DISCLAIMER:
I AM NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ANY ACCIDENTS CAUSED OR RELATED TO THIS INSTRUCTABLE.
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Signing UpStep 1: Materials
1 Bolt 4'' x 1/2''
1 Hex cap 3/8''
1 O-Ring 1/2'' x 5/16'' x 3/32''
1 Steel pipe nipple 3/8'' x 3''
Some J-B Weld
Vaseline
Tools needed:
Grinder
Circular shaped files
Drill and drill bits (range of sizes from small to LARGE)
Oil
Awl and small hammer (optional, but helpful)
Large clamp
Q-tips
Dowel
Water and soap














































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I found that by holding the top of the carriage bolt to the ground with two fingers and holding on to the cylinder part I can get a 90% success rate with most tinder materials. holding it in this fashion it is just alot easier to get a fast down stroke, hold for a second, and quickly remove the cylinder to expose the ember. This also keeps the ember from falling out if it's small and allows you to slowly blow it into an intense ember without having to move the piston around. So if you're working with crummy tinder you'll have a greater chance of blowing on it before it goes out.
I tried some copier fuser roller silicone oil and it works GREAT! :D It's really thick and slick. I'm not sure if there is a lot of difference between plumbers' silicone grease and this stuff, but they are both silicone, so it should work, I would think. :)
The other question concerns the composition of your O-ring. If it is a common rubber O-ring, then petroleum jelly will cause it to breakdown prematurely. If it is a silicon rubber O-ring then you are OK. If it IS a common rubber O-ring I would suggest a silicon grease instead of the Vaseline.
I'm definitely going to try this when I can get back into my shop. I know I have all the parts there - it will just be a matter of finding them since the move.
Thanks again!
That is some good information!
Your welcome! :D
Thanks for the fine Instructable! I'll have to try this one out....it helps that I have access to a lathe but you make it very do-able with common tools!
Question: is the purpose of the epoxy just to seal the cap to the pipe or is it to provide a solid base for the stroke?
It is mostly for keeping it air tight.
I would venture a guess that the more expensive "seamless" type of steel pipe (contrast "welded") would be less likely to have the ridge down the inside that needs to be removed. That looked like a lot of work from over here.