How to Make a Hidden Tang Knife





Introduction: How to Make a Hidden Tang Knife

This instructable will teach you how to make a Hidden Tang knife on your own. It will walk you the process from start to finish. When completed, you will have a One of Kind, Hand Crafted Creation that you designed and made yourself.

With a hidden tang knife the tang goes through the center of the handle not to be seen. Opposed to a full tang knife whose tang is the actual size of the handle and you can see it all the way around the outside of the handle.

Step 1: Step 1

Get your plan organized.

You will have to decide on the type of knife that you would like to fit your needs. Do you want this knife to be collectible or functional? After deciding that, you will need to chose the size of the blade that you want and the type of handle that will be used. How many parts do you want to make your knife out of? Do you want to use spacers? You also want to keep in mind what price range you would like to stay in while making these decisions.

After your plan is put together and organized, you will want to sketch out a design of the handle that you want to make.

*Just a Reminder. Make sure all of your parts are finished and polished to your desire before assembly. This will save you much grief when your blade is attached*

Step 2: Step 2

Building your dream knife is now about to begin...

You will begin with taking a threaded rod (I prefer 1/2" round) and cutting it down to your desired length. Depending on the size and shape of the knife tang, you will need to drill out the threaded rod.. In order to do this, you will need to drill a hole down the center of the length approximately 5/16" - 3/8" round and 2 1/2" - 3" deep. If dealing with a squared tang, it will have to be cut to the length size and sanded down to the thickness for a round hole.

Step 3: Step 3

Making the Handle

Now that your threaded rod is cut and drilled, you will have to shape your material for the handle. Once you have your material lathed or sanded down to desired shape and size, you will have to drill and tap the material to fit the rod. If your material is in sections, spacers will be needed. The spacers can act as added length, weight, or appearance for a knife.

Step 4: Step 4

Making and Inserting Spacers

Spacers can be made out of most materials. After picking the desired material for your spacer, you will need to drill and tap the spacer to fit your threaded rod. Always remember that your spacer, must match the same diameter of the handle.

Spacers should be screwed on in between material. On one end of the material you will have a pomel, and one you will have a guard.

Step 5: Step 5

Making A Pomel (the end piece of your knife)

Pomels, just like spacers, can be created from most materials. You will need to partially cut, drill, and tap the Pomel. Very similar to what was done with the spacers, but not going through the material 100%. (Try to get atleast 2 threads in a Pomel.)

Once the Pomel is to your liking, screw on your Pomel to the end of the rod.

*I have found it is easier, to take all the pieces off, put a small amount of apoxy on the last 2 threads of the rod, and work form from the Pomel forward (towards the guard). *

Step 6: Step 6

Making and Assembling your Guard (MUST BE PUT ON BEFORE HANDLE)

Guard must be cut to fit the tang securely you want to have the slot cut as small as possible to eliminate gaps showing. Place on tang next to the blade. Fill up the the hole of the threaded rod with apoxy (carefully) and then put the tang in. Make sure to fit the guard on tightly.

Now you can put your handle on.

Step 7: Step 7

Your Knife is Just About Done.

Allow the apoxy time to dry (depending on what time it calls for).

Once dry. Your knife is FINISHED.

I have been asked many times if I sell the knives I make.
The answer is yes I do, I have a store on eBay called Dragon's Venture.
All my knives are one of a kind, serial number listed, also photo recorded.
I also make custom order knives, stands, display cases.
My knives are 100% gaurateed, I also sell custom made parts for knives.



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I think the threaded rod is called rebar

no, threaded rod is just that, threaded rod. Rebar is for reinforcing concrete its scrap metal thats been melted its scrap bar of varying hardness. It looks like a round cylinder with little outcroppings.

Sold in stores as "all-thread"

oh, I think I found that out a couple months ago.
after posted the comment

It is actually sold in parts stores as all-thread and comes in all popular sizes and tpi

These are a few I just finished up, They are stocking up now that every ones out of work, But whwn things pick back up, I'll be rady,

this is beautiful. It should be featured.

You may be right, But I am hoping a customer I have picks them up.
He doesn't like feathers.

Nicely done 'ible This technique would work wonderfully for a display knife. and that brass sure does shine up pretty :-) Can also be done(but with more work) by grinding down a full-tang blade, and using a die to thread the end. I have an old k-bar knife that was made that way. Wierd to see javascript in a pdf file but... virus scanner checked it out as clean, so Whatever floats :-)

I have done a few like you said, but found that it was not as strong as the ones I make now. Yes most of the dagger are pretty displays, but daggers don't have to much use other than a boot knife. You can buy blades with the end of the tang threaded and squeeze all the parts together and hope they stay lined up after you drop it on the ground. The one part I left out was a damage test I did to one of my bowies. It started as trying to get one of my earlier handles off the blade so I could redo it. Well after a few smacks with a 18 oz. hammer I found myself aggravated and really pounded on the knife only to find that I messed up the wood parts fairly well. But pommel to guard stayed intact and was usable for any job given to a knife. My custom knives weight 2 to 3 times your average store bought knife, unless it's designed for another purpose, like throwing. Even then, some of them were quite heavy. That's why I put my own guarantee on my knives because I know that they will hold up to any task given. Sure my collector knives may have sensitive handles, such as marble, mother of pearl, turquoise. etc: Those are said to be collector items and not work knives. my bowies will still slash and do a lot of harm, and all will go through a 1" thick rope with one pull with the right person cutting the rope.