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Step 7Using the Laundry Water Recycler
At this step, you should have everything put together and ready to go. There are two positions of the ball valves that I call Positions 1 and 2. Position 1 has the drain valve open and the tank valve closed. This is how the valves should be when you start a load.
After putting your clothes and detergent in, if there is no water in the tank, then just let your machine fill up as it normally does. If there is water in the tank, then then fill up the washer with that water. I tried putting a faucet on the end of the hose, but this slowed the flow down way too much. With the 1-1/4" corrugated hose, the water flows out VERY quickly. Here's how you do it: Take a small piece of clothing, like a t-shirt or underwear and place it tightly over the mouth of the hose (we keep a step stool by the washer so we can reach up there easily). Slowly, bring the end of the hose down into the washer basin. When you have the end of the hose in position, remove the piece of clothing and the water will come gushing out.
If you need to stop the flow of water before the tank is empty (because, say, you are doing a small load of laundry), SLOWLY place the piece of clothing back over the hose, gradually cutting off the flow (If you do it quickly, you'll probably get sprayed with water). When the flow has stopped completely, keep pressure on the end of the hose and lift it up slowly. As soon as it is above the level of the tank water, the pressure will release and you can then put the end of the hose back on its hook. If you have introduced enough water for your load setting (small, medium, large etc), then the sensor in your machine will know not to add any more water and it will automatically start washing (mine starts as soon as I close the door).
**
One reader has suggested that you could avoid all this trouble by installing a ball valve on the hose itself. That would probably work just fine, except that these valves take so much force to turn on and off. I think, if one could either get a ball valve that doesn't turn with such difficulty, or add a permanent lever to the handle, this would be a good addition to the project.
**
You will want to time how long it takes for your washer to complete the washing portion of the cycle, pump the dirty water out, spin, and then start filling up with the rinse water. In my case, as soon as the washing starts, we start a kitchen timer set at 18-20 minutes.
When the timer rings, it's time to change the valves to position 2, so water will be pumped into the tank at the end of the rinse.
At the end of the load, return the valves back to position 1, so they are ready for the next load. If you forget, and the person doing the next load also forgets to check for position 1, then the tank will overflow. Since you have put in the safety overflow :) you will not flood your house, but you will mix in dirtier, soapier water with the rinse water.
After putting your clothes and detergent in, if there is no water in the tank, then just let your machine fill up as it normally does. If there is water in the tank, then then fill up the washer with that water. I tried putting a faucet on the end of the hose, but this slowed the flow down way too much. With the 1-1/4" corrugated hose, the water flows out VERY quickly. Here's how you do it: Take a small piece of clothing, like a t-shirt or underwear and place it tightly over the mouth of the hose (we keep a step stool by the washer so we can reach up there easily). Slowly, bring the end of the hose down into the washer basin. When you have the end of the hose in position, remove the piece of clothing and the water will come gushing out.
If you need to stop the flow of water before the tank is empty (because, say, you are doing a small load of laundry), SLOWLY place the piece of clothing back over the hose, gradually cutting off the flow (If you do it quickly, you'll probably get sprayed with water). When the flow has stopped completely, keep pressure on the end of the hose and lift it up slowly. As soon as it is above the level of the tank water, the pressure will release and you can then put the end of the hose back on its hook. If you have introduced enough water for your load setting (small, medium, large etc), then the sensor in your machine will know not to add any more water and it will automatically start washing (mine starts as soon as I close the door).
**
One reader has suggested that you could avoid all this trouble by installing a ball valve on the hose itself. That would probably work just fine, except that these valves take so much force to turn on and off. I think, if one could either get a ball valve that doesn't turn with such difficulty, or add a permanent lever to the handle, this would be a good addition to the project.
**
You will want to time how long it takes for your washer to complete the washing portion of the cycle, pump the dirty water out, spin, and then start filling up with the rinse water. In my case, as soon as the washing starts, we start a kitchen timer set at 18-20 minutes.
When the timer rings, it's time to change the valves to position 2, so water will be pumped into the tank at the end of the rinse.
At the end of the load, return the valves back to position 1, so they are ready for the next load. If you forget, and the person doing the next load also forgets to check for position 1, then the tank will overflow. Since you have put in the safety overflow :) you will not flood your house, but you will mix in dirtier, soapier water with the rinse water.
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Sep 21, 2009. 4:42 AMRoyalPayne
says:
Not to mention all the exercise you are getting running up and down the basement stairs.
Reply
Sep 12, 2009. 5:09 PMarlen
says:
How does the rinse water in a normal system flow? Is it triggered by relays and solenoids? I'd think that you could some how tap into or scab onto the washing machine's existing electronics to make this automagic. Will try and remember to take a look at my washing machine when I get home in a few months.
Reply
6
Sep 15, 2009. 12:03 PMdlginstructables (author)
says:
I think it could be done, but you'd have to add some logic that would have one valve position for the wash and another for the rinse.
Reply
Sep 11, 2009. 5:38 AMtexasclodhopper
says:
(removed by author or community request)
6
Sep 11, 2009. 8:43 AMdlginstructables (author)
says:
It does take work to be green - at least that's my philosophy - but for me it's a "labor of love". We are motivated here because we've had three straight years of drought in California. But, I agree that many households would not tolerate something like this. I have never opened up a washing machine to look at the innards, but I like your idea about tapping into the machine's own relays. I'll put it on my list of potential projects.
Reply
Sep 11, 2009. 6:51 AMdimitrii
says:
I would use another ball valve to control the water into the washer. I am sure that even if I talked my wife into this she would quit the first time she was dowsed trying to fill the washer. The fully automatic system would be nice and not at all impossible to build. But there are many people that would be comfortable enough with their skills to build this, but won't go past plugging it in and turning it on when it comes to electricity.
Reply
6
Sep 11, 2009. 8:37 AMdlginstructables (author)
says:
I originally put a plastic faucet on the outlet pipe, but it was so slow it took over 15 minutes to fill the tank. A ball valve would be almost as fast as the bare hose. The valves I have are very stiff - difficult to open and close, which is why I made a wrench for them. About your other point. At first, I think we all felt somewhat inconvenienced by having to use a timer and switch the valves in the middle of each cycle. By now, we're all very used to it and for me, I love the fact that we are saving so much water.
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