Step 6: The Flipping

Now that the top is on we need to flip it right side out. To do this we first need to undo the back seam. I untied the knot I had tied it off with so I could reuse the same thread.

After you've undone the back submerge the entire thing in water for about five or ten minutes. The water turns a nice tea color so don't do this in a nice bowl or something. It may stain it.

Once it's all nice and floppy carefully turn it inside out. If you put too much strain on the leather it can leave wrinkle marks that don't come out so it's best to go slow.

After you've flipped it right side out try to form it to how you want it to look because once it dries it will retain the shape you left it in.  I made sure to give it a nice inverse dome on the top and then I tried to straighten it out as much as possible so it didn't dry crooked.

No instructable, I don't want to steal your glory! I was going for more of a Indiana jones look.
Awesome man!That is a sweet looking hat. I love the finish on it too. And thanks for the compliment, but I wouldn't consider it stealing my &quot;glory&quot; haha. I'm sure you improved on my instructions where they needed it and figured out different ways that worked better for you. Sometimes I'm just interested in seeing other people's methods and what they've thought of that I haven't. That way next time I make something I can do it even better!
<p>So here is my first attempt at a leather top hat. thanks for your advice - it helped a lot. I messed up on the inner diameter of the brim. I made that too small, with the result that the hat fits my wife perfectly, but not me. So its back to the drawing board for round 2 and my hat. :-)</p>
<p>Wow, that is seriously a cool hat. I love the overall shape you went with, and the reddish stain and x-stitching on the sides look awesome.</p><p>But, I think you meant to say &quot;I surprised my wife by telling her I was making myself a hat but really making her one instead&quot;. ;)</p>
<p>Wow great job on the hats! Incredible!</p>
<p>Thanks! It was a lot of fun. I've made a hat kit now and I plan on making another hat as well. Leatherworking isn't addicting, no, not at all. ;)</p>
<p>Thanks a lot for your comments. It was really great fun to make it. And you are right about &quot;what I meant to say&quot; - diplomacy is simply not my strong point :-)</p>
<p>i made two. Not leather tho' fun to make! Going for a third soon!</p>
<p>Awsome job! Leather isn't required to make some great fashionable headware.</p>
<p>Great instructable , loosely followed the pattern and and just finishing off the top hat, its going to be a steampunk time travelers top hat . thanks . </p>
<p>Fantastic! You should share pictures!</p>
<p>I've never tried leather work but would attempt it with your tutorial. You make it look effortless. Was wondering if naturally tanned deer or moosehide would work or would it be to soft a material? If I try it, I love the steam punk themed-hats. I would have to include a pair of stylish goggles, &amp; gears, cogs etc... </p>
<p>Hi, sorry for the delayed reply, and thanks for the compliment! The deer hide I have seen is much too flimsy to make a hat by itself and if moosehide is anything like it I wouldn't use it either. That said, traditional silk tophats use an internal structure made of buckram to make them sturdy. I've never used buckram but it might be possible to use it in the same way but cover it in deer hide rather than silk.</p>
<p>Hello, What size hole punch did you use?</p>
<p>I got the Mini Leather Punch Set from Tandy (<a href="http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/3003-00.aspx" rel="nofollow">http://www.tandyleather.com/en-usd/home/department/tools/punches/3003-00.aspx</a>) and I think I used the smallest punch in the set.</p>
<p>Great thanks! And nice hat btw. Just finishing up my first leather project, a belt. Now moving on to try a top hat. </p>
<p>Awesome! Don't forget to post pictures when you're done!</p>
<p>I love your hat.</p>
<p>Thanks I do too!</p>
<p>Nice hat. I've wanted to make a hat ever since I saw some absolutely gorgeous ones for over $300 at a store in Santa Fe. As soon as I have time, I'll give yours a try. </p>
<p>Thanks! It was really fun to make so you should save at least like $200 and have fun while you're at it. Whenever you finish it post pictures!</p>
<p>Hi Rambler, thank you for your instructable. </p><p>It inspired me a lot. And I mean it - as you can see here:<br><a href="https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u8f3c60ef-d708-4d3b-bd87-dec88a05396a" rel="nofollow">https://3dwarehouse.sketchup.com/model.html?id=u8f...</a><br>Thank you for inspiration - and maybe some folks will use it as free pattern choice.<br>Salieri</p>
<p>That's awesome! Great work!</p>
<p>Great lesson! </p>
Great looking piece of headgear &amp; excellent instructable! One question, when you attach the brim to the crown I notice that the brim overlaps the crown thus leaving the seam open to any water running down the hat. Since the joint is always going to be the weak link it would seem preferable to have the crown overlapping the brim &amp; allowing rainwater to run straight off. Is this more difficult to sew &amp; would it affect the shape of the hat? Also does this edge need finishing a la brim? (I cheated, that's three questions).
Haha, whenever I have &quot;one question&quot; it always seems to have tag along questions as well. <br> <br>To be honest I hadn't given rain a lot of thought. Probably because I think of this more as costume piece than everyday wear. In fact, I would hesitate to wear this in the rain anyway simply because water and leather don't seem to mix well. That being said almost every leather top hat I've seen has been made like this so I'm guessing either rain doesn't cause that much of an issue for that seam or there really isn't a better way of doing it. I have seen the brim done with only a single layer and the crown as the outer layer. It doesn't affect the shape and it's actually easier to sew but it does weaken that joint because it just has two layers sewn up against each other instead of sandwiching one layer in between the others. I think the best bet to avoid any water damage in that area would be to seal it really well with a water proof leather sealer after it's been sewn together and add a band around the crown that either overlaps that seam or at least bumps right up against it to direct the water over it. If you did decide to have the crown overlap the brim you would need to finish it just like the edge of the brim, otherwise you don't have to worry about since on my hat you can't see the bottom edge of the crown. <br> <br>Whew, a wordy answer but I hope it helps.
<p>Excellent hat! Need to make one of these!!<br><br>As for the rain issue, that is also addressed in this excellent leather hat 'Ible as well:</p><p><a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Leather-Bushcraft-Hat/" rel="nofollow">http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-A-Leat...</a></p><p>Just thought you might be interested.</p>
<p>Thank you! And thanks for pointing that instructable out. I have seen it since but have to admit to being slightly confused by his description of the two methods. He seems to suggest one method is best but all of his pictures seem to suggest he uses the other. Either that or I'm misunderstanding his description. Regardless, his hats are fantastic. Good luck on your own!</p>
Thanks very much for your helpful answer Rambler, I think you deserve a nice cup of tea &amp; sit down after all that typing!
Why thank you, I love some good tea and a nice sit down! :)
<p>Nice hat! Apparently, looking at your instructables, we're into some similar stuff!</p>
<p>Thanks! Well, it's good stuff to be into (though I might be biased). I have another instructable in the works to be added to the leather contest that you might enjoy so keep an eye out.</p>
Managed to get the leather to day! Got 1.45 m2 which is about 15.6 ft2 , so that is enough to kit out the whole family :-). Will get a pattern printed out next week and then see what I can put together.<br><br>Thanks a lot for the help.
<p>That's the best and worst thing about buying leather. You have to buy so much of it that it's almost an investment but once you do you can MAKE ALL THE THINGS! Or at least that's what it feels like.</p>
<p>Excellent hat! Found it in my search for a pattern to use for a Steampunk party. Could you tell me what thickness leather you use? I see references to the weight in ounces, but have no idea how to relate this too the thickness. </p>
Why thank you! I referenced the weight because that was how they sold it at Tandy Leather. I just measured the leather I used though and it looks to be about 1/8&quot; thick.<br><br>A steampunk party sounds great! I'd love to see pictures of your outfit or at least your hat.
Thanks a stack for the quick reply. So that works out to about 3mm thick ( I am in South Africa and we use SI units here :-)<br><br>Did you use thinner leather for the double layer brim?<br><br>I will definitely post some picks when I get it done.
<p>No problem, I get excited when people can use my instructables. It's especially cool when people from all over the world are referencing it.</p><p>I used the same thickness of leather for everything. It was thick enough to be stiff for the crown but thin enough to not be too chunky for the brim, and since the brim is the only part that you can actually see the thickness you can't tell there's any difference.</p>
<p>nice hat if you use a stitching groover you can level your stitches so they are protected </p>
<p>Very true. Thanks for the input.</p>
This is pretty awesome. How long did it take you (hours)?
Thank you! Oh wow, I wish I knew. It's always hard for me to gauge because I do most of my projects on my lunch hour at work, which means that it's done in 30-45 minute increments (I've got to eat too!), and that some of that time is spent getting everything out and putting everything away each time I work on it. Let's see though, based on my blog entries it took me about 20 days which means that it could have taken me anywhere between 10-25 actual work hours, maybe? I know there's a huge margin in there but I'm just not sure. That time could probably be pared down a bit if you have a work station where you can leave everything set up.
Sigh, leather is expensive i bet. Id love to have a real top hat instead of the cheap Party City one :( Do you know where i could look for leather anyways?
I got my leather at Tandy Leather. It can get a little expensive since you usually have to buy it in large pieces instead of being able to cut it down to just the size you need. Of course that also means you usually have left over leather that you can use for other projects. If you have a Tandy store in your area check them out. You might find a piece that's a good size and not too expensive. Also, they often have sales on the website. I'd say you're probably looking at spending $30-60 depending.
Nope, I never heard of Tandy. Do you think pleather would work?
Hmm, possibly? Pleather tends to not be as stiff as leather so it might be a little floppy. I'm not really sure though. You could always try it and do some sort of inner support frame to help it retain it's shape. Or use heavy buckram like you would use to make a standard cloth top hat.
Hello! Thanks for taking the time! <br> <br>I have a question.. does not brim stretch around the crown a bit? If so, do regularly-spaced holes that you punch still line up pretty good? Or is the trick here to make sure there isn't *that* much stretching?
The trick for me was to make sure there was pretty much *no* stretching. I mean, I can't really claim it didn't stretch at all but the sizes were so similar that I didn't really notice any. There was definitely flexing (because of the curve of the brim) and that made it more difficult than just sewing two flat things together. Also, I'll be honest and say that the holes did not always line up perfectly but I think that was because of my imperfect hole punching.

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