Introduction: How to Make a Longboard With Pallets With Simple Tools
Today we are going to create a Long board from just 4 pallet wood planks that looks soo great and even better if it is free. Also it is made with with basic tools which every dad or anyone should have, or are easy to afford but remember there is always a different way to do something. Also i wanted to make the Long board in such a way that it looked like it was made from reclaimed wood because i really like that look , just by leaving the nails in it.also there will be great tips here even if your not building a long board
Step 1: Materials
I wanted to make this project so that any one can do this in their room (not recommended) or in their garden with little tools or just general diy tools for example.
1. A pallet.
2. An adhesive, i used gorrila glue but other wood glues would be just as good.
3. Jigsaw (but you could use any type of saw).
4. Sander or sanding block.
5. Clamps or Duct tape.
7. Drill bits.
8. Any printer or pen.
9. Reciprocating saw or hammer and crow bar.
10. adhesive spray.
Step 2: Taking Apart the Pallet
- I think the best way to get those precious planks off is to use a reciprocating saw to easily saw off all the planks because doing this will eliminate any risk of you splitting the planks and we all don't want that do we? Best to use a saw blade designed for nails in wood for best results,or you can just use a metal blade that is what i have done. Or if you dont have a recip saw that is perfectly understandable because they can be expensive.
- you can just use a crow bar and hammer but i am using a recip saw because i wanted to leave the nails in it for a rustic reclaimed look.
- To use a recip saw you just put the recip saw against the pallet and saw down so you cut the nails off which i think is the best way.
Step 3: Sanding
Now you have taken off all the planks you should sand down 4 of them to get off all the rough bits that give's you horrible splinters, and just to smooth them down you can use any sander to sand it even a sanding block. Also you may have to plane the edges down so it fit's smoothly together for glueing.
Step 4: Glueing
To glue all the 4 planks together i used Gorrila glue but you can use regular wood glue. If using Gorilla glue wet the surface first then apply the glue, then clamp the boards together or tape them, that is what i done because I did not have any suitable clamps. This is where bar clamp's would of been handy. Gorilla glue cures 80% in 1 hour and 100% in 24 hours so leaving it for 1 hour for the next step would be fine.
Step 5: Sanding
If you'r using Gorilla glue this step definately applies to you because Gorrilla glue expands when it dry by 3 times as much. so you may need to sand it down to make a nice smooth surface to stick the template on to it, and to level it out slighty so it looks nicer.
Step 6: Template
Now you want to make or download a great template for your free and reclaimed wood long board deck.
I printed my template because i wanted a great looking deck so i found a pdf pintail template by churchill ( https://www.silverfishlongboarding.com/forum/churchill-manufacturing/176915-churchill-mfg-lost-longboard-templates-found-uncut-pressed-blanks.html ) i thought this template uses way too much ink but i really liked it and i wanted it to be as cheap as possible for you makers and save your dads ink so i edited it on a free version of Photoshop to make it black and White, perfect for printing a large long board template.
To print the template out to scale and size for your deck you want to open the pdf document that is at the bottom of this page and press "print" and go to "page sizing and handleing" and press "poster" so it prints it in mutiple pages then press "print".
Step 7: Putting Template Together
To make the template you will want do aligne all the pages and tape them together then carefully cut it out with some scissors and theirs your template.
Step 8: Glueing Template
- Now you have cut out your template you have 2 options you could spray the template to the board by spraying "stay tacky adhesive spray" to the template then place on the deck then because it is much easier to take off than any other adhesive spray.
- Or you could just glue the template to some cardboard and cut it out and draw around the template and mark the screw holes which are for the trucks.
Step 9: Drilling
- First you want to make sure the holes are all alligned by putting your trucks other holes on the template just to make sure that the black dots allign with the holes on the trucks.
- Next you want to create a small indentation with a centre punch or a nail in the middle of the screw hole, this will help stop the drill bit slipping when you drill the pilot hole and make sure its accurate and straight (important drill straight).
- Next you want to drill a pilot hole with a small drill bit so your drilling is more accurate and you eliminate any risk of splitting the wood and helps you drilling straight. Also use a smaller bit than ther size of thescrew you are going to use for your trucks.
- Next you want to get a 5.5 drill bit and drill down the pilot hole you have just made, this will be the size for your hardware.
- Next you want to use a counter sink drill bit so your hardware (Screw head) fits flush on the deck better and looks much neater. You don't have to counter sink the holes, you can screw the bolts in and sink it in yourself with a screw driver because it is only a soft wood and the screw heads will sink in with little effort but this may result in splitting the deck. And you don't want to do this at this stage.
Step 10: Cutting Out
Now you want to cut out the deck. This is the first time i have used a jigsaw so my explernation will not be that great but but i will try my best. To cut out your deck properly the best way if you have not got a workshop and a useful scroll saw would be to use a jigsaw becase they are really cheap and do the job well . You just aline the jigsaw with the template then cut around it. I left about half a mm so you can make it the edge of the board flat with a file and a sander if you have too. you don't have to do this but i think that it gives a better finnish.
If you don't have a jigsaw you could use a recip saw or a hand saw but there would be a lot of tidying up but luckily it is a soft wood, also it is quicker with power tools.
Step 11: Sand Again
Now you have carefully cut out your "reclaimed" wood deck you will want to sand the whole deck, the side ,top and back and reconnmend sanding the corners to create a curved edge because it helps to stop splinters and splits and looks much tidier and sharper. Just to mention that sanding blocks work just the same just a little slower.
Step 12: Varnishing
This step is optional but i highly recommend it because a few coats of varnish helps protect your well crafted deck from the elements and getting stained from all sorts of crap on the roads. It also makes the grain and knots stand out really nice.
- First step is to wipe any dust off from the deck with a tack cloth or a lint free cloth to get all the dust off so the varnish sticks better
- Next you will want to varnish the deck with a Polyurethane varnish and you should paint the varnish genorously to the deck and spread the varnish in all directions to spread it evenly on the deck then brush it following the grain of the wood to get a better finish.
- Let dry and sand with 200 grit or above sandpaper so the next coat of varnish sticks better. I used 1200 grit to get a super smooth result.
- You want to do 4 coats of varnish or more to make it ultra durable and waterproof but the more coats you give it the deeper the look will be.
- The varnish you use is down to you and the finish you desire. You could use a matt finish varnish if a flat look is what you are after, or a gloss look if you want a shiney finish. I chose a satin finish because i wanted an in between look.
- Also when the varnish is wet you can throw some sand on it and let dry and then paint over and there you go you have some free grip tape
Step 13: Adding Hard Ware
Now you have finished your deck you will want to install the trucks and hard ware so you can skate on it and bomb down those steep hills with pride with the deck that you have made. (Please be careful and remember to use your safety equipment at all times) ?
- First you want to insert the nuts in the deck. You may have to use a screw driver because of the varnish filling the hole.
- Next insert your riser pads in a outward direction. You will probably need a riser pad to stop wheel bite on the bottom of the deck.
- Now put the trucks in the same direction as the riser pads and the kingpin should face outwards like in the picture. That is the the best oriontation i think for a Pintail Longboard
- now add the nuts and tighten with a wrench or skate tool
Step 14: Finnish and Ride
Now you have finished your reclaimed deck you can have greate fun cruising down the streets or bombing down the hills at 30mph but please be safe and thanks for reading. Please send me pictures of ones that you have made. i wuold love to see them.