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Step 25Build the Controller
What you need:
Perfboard
Eight 47k Resistors
Eight Tact switches (See 2nd and 4th paragraphs)
4 NES controller A/B buttons
NES controller D-Pad
4021 Shift Register
16-pin DIP Socket
IDE cable (or other suitable wire)
Hot glue gun
Soldering Iron
Desoldering Iron
NES Controller Plug (From NES case)
Small Screw
NES Controller Cable
HOW YOU SHOULD BUILD THE CONTROLLER
Once you have everything working, you need to build the controller for the NES. There are two ways you could go with this; building your own or using the original controller boards. There are pros and cons for both:
Building your own is fun and helps you learn more about electronics. If you build your own, it is easier to mount in the case. The only problem is that if you use "clicky" tact switches, then the controller does not feel like the real thing.
You can use the original controller board. This is a great option because it feels like an original controller, and it is a lot easier to put together than the first option. These are often difficult to mount in a case. If you want to do this, check the next step for a bit of information.
OR, you can meet at the middle and combine method 1 and method 2. Make your own controller (easy to mount) and use these "mushy" tact switches from Mouser (feels like the original controller). This is the best option, in my opinion. Unfortunately, I did not find these switches until after I completed my portable, so that's too bad. Next time...
For my first portable I went with option 1. I wanted to be able to really feel that the switches are actually being pressed. If you want to do option 2, check the next step. For 3, just use option 1 but with the squishy switches.
HOW THE CONTROLLER WORKS
It's nice to understand a bit how the controller works. If you don't think so, just skip this paragraph.
The NES controller uses something called a shift register. This basically takes your button presses and converts them into signals. Once they reach the NES, the NES looks at them and figures out which buttons are being pressed, then changes the game accordingly. That's how the NES controller can have 8 buttons and only use 5 pins.
You also need to know that the shift register in the NES controller uses "pull-up resistors". These are resistors that connect each of the data pins to a small voltage, so that each pin is in a "high" state. To send the signal, the register pulls the pin "low".
Now, aren't you glad you understand that? Building the controller will be so much more fun now. :)
Since it would be ridiculous for me to write out every single wire that you need to connect, I will have to give you a schematic instead. It is the second-to-last picture in this step. I can still give you the general steps and some tips, though:
GENERAL STEPS
Take apart the NES controller. Hopefully you can do this on your own.
Desolder the 4021 shift register chip from the controller. Be careful not to overheat it!
Cut a piece of perfboard using an X-Acto knife and pliers. Score the perfboard many times where you want the board to come apart. Take your pliers and grab right next to the score line, then bend the perfboard to snap it off.
Lay out all your pieces on the perfboard and find a configuration that is functional. Try to make it so that the resistors are close to the tact switches, something I failed to do on the d-pad half.
Solder all your pieces in. Make sure you use the 8-pin DIP connector. Don't directly solder the chip in, or you risk burning it out.
Start building the circuit shown in the schematic. One side of the tact switch is connected to ground, the other side is connected to the correct pin on the 4021. Each of those lines has a resistor connected to it, the other end going to +5v.
TESTING THE CONTROLLER
Once you get the d-pad half done, you might want to test it out. The Red, Orange, Yellow, White, and Brown are referring to the colors inside the NES controller's cable. Just strip and solder the wires to the correct points, as shown on the schematic. One important thing to note is that BOTH pins labeled BROWN on the schematic must be connected. You cannot connect only one, or it will not work. Trust me, I made that mistake. It was very frustrating figuring out why my controller did not work.
Pop in the chip, making sure it is facing the right way. For me, it was the notch facing the tact switches. Plug it in to your NES system, and test it out. Once you confirm that it works, continue on and build the A/B and Start/Select board.
BUILD THE OTHER HALF
Use the same procedure for the A/B Start/Select buttons with another piece of perfboard. Connect the two boards with a piece of perfboard. Again, one side of the tacts must go to ground, and the other side must go to the pins on the 4021, each with a pull-up resistor. The last picture shows the pinout of the 4021, and where to connect the button wires.
ATTACHING THE CONTROLLER PLUG
Once you finish the controller, take one of the sets of wires that connected the controller ports inside the NES and cut it off from the connector port. Solder it to the controller. Again, the colors match those shown in the schematic. You now have finished the controller!
Perfboard
Eight 47k Resistors
Eight Tact switches (See 2nd and 4th paragraphs)
4 NES controller A/B buttons
NES controller D-Pad
4021 Shift Register
16-pin DIP Socket
IDE cable (or other suitable wire)
Hot glue gun
Soldering Iron
Desoldering Iron
NES Controller Plug (From NES case)
Small Screw
NES Controller Cable
HOW YOU SHOULD BUILD THE CONTROLLER
Once you have everything working, you need to build the controller for the NES. There are two ways you could go with this; building your own or using the original controller boards. There are pros and cons for both:
Building your own is fun and helps you learn more about electronics. If you build your own, it is easier to mount in the case. The only problem is that if you use "clicky" tact switches, then the controller does not feel like the real thing.
You can use the original controller board. This is a great option because it feels like an original controller, and it is a lot easier to put together than the first option. These are often difficult to mount in a case. If you want to do this, check the next step for a bit of information.
OR, you can meet at the middle and combine method 1 and method 2. Make your own controller (easy to mount) and use these "mushy" tact switches from Mouser (feels like the original controller). This is the best option, in my opinion. Unfortunately, I did not find these switches until after I completed my portable, so that's too bad. Next time...
For my first portable I went with option 1. I wanted to be able to really feel that the switches are actually being pressed. If you want to do option 2, check the next step. For 3, just use option 1 but with the squishy switches.
HOW THE CONTROLLER WORKS
It's nice to understand a bit how the controller works. If you don't think so, just skip this paragraph.
The NES controller uses something called a shift register. This basically takes your button presses and converts them into signals. Once they reach the NES, the NES looks at them and figures out which buttons are being pressed, then changes the game accordingly. That's how the NES controller can have 8 buttons and only use 5 pins.
You also need to know that the shift register in the NES controller uses "pull-up resistors". These are resistors that connect each of the data pins to a small voltage, so that each pin is in a "high" state. To send the signal, the register pulls the pin "low".
Now, aren't you glad you understand that? Building the controller will be so much more fun now. :)
Since it would be ridiculous for me to write out every single wire that you need to connect, I will have to give you a schematic instead. It is the second-to-last picture in this step. I can still give you the general steps and some tips, though:
GENERAL STEPS
Take apart the NES controller. Hopefully you can do this on your own.
Desolder the 4021 shift register chip from the controller. Be careful not to overheat it!
Cut a piece of perfboard using an X-Acto knife and pliers. Score the perfboard many times where you want the board to come apart. Take your pliers and grab right next to the score line, then bend the perfboard to snap it off.
Lay out all your pieces on the perfboard and find a configuration that is functional. Try to make it so that the resistors are close to the tact switches, something I failed to do on the d-pad half.
Solder all your pieces in. Make sure you use the 8-pin DIP connector. Don't directly solder the chip in, or you risk burning it out.
Start building the circuit shown in the schematic. One side of the tact switch is connected to ground, the other side is connected to the correct pin on the 4021. Each of those lines has a resistor connected to it, the other end going to +5v.
TESTING THE CONTROLLER
Once you get the d-pad half done, you might want to test it out. The Red, Orange, Yellow, White, and Brown are referring to the colors inside the NES controller's cable. Just strip and solder the wires to the correct points, as shown on the schematic. One important thing to note is that BOTH pins labeled BROWN on the schematic must be connected. You cannot connect only one, or it will not work. Trust me, I made that mistake. It was very frustrating figuring out why my controller did not work.
Pop in the chip, making sure it is facing the right way. For me, it was the notch facing the tact switches. Plug it in to your NES system, and test it out. Once you confirm that it works, continue on and build the A/B and Start/Select board.
BUILD THE OTHER HALF
Use the same procedure for the A/B Start/Select buttons with another piece of perfboard. Connect the two boards with a piece of perfboard. Again, one side of the tacts must go to ground, and the other side must go to the pins on the 4021, each with a pull-up resistor. The last picture shows the pinout of the 4021, and where to connect the button wires.
ATTACHING THE CONTROLLER PLUG
Once you finish the controller, take one of the sets of wires that connected the controller ports inside the NES and cut it off from the connector port. Solder it to the controller. Again, the colors match those shown in the schematic. You now have finished the controller!
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And because of the voltage regulator, would it be a waste to use say 11 volts. Because i am interpreting it as anything more than 7.5v is given off as heat.
P.S. Disregard my former question, it was stupid.
http://showcase.benheck.com/mario_retro64_68.html
When I posted it in a thread in Instructables, it was featured on the main page. :)
http://www.instructables.com/community/Handhend_Nintendo_64_Nicknamed_the_Retro64/
http://revision3.com/systm/n64/?autoplay=true