Print PDF
Favorite
Email
Step 36Installing the Components - Back Panel
What you need:
Back plastic piece
Drill and bits
Hot glue
Long screws and nuts
File
After all this hard work, now you get to finish it all up! You must be bursting with excitement! You probably don't even need these instructions. If you don't, good for you! Go finish your portable! If you do need these instructions, read on.
Hot glue is your friend. But in a transparent case, you don't want to use too much. Only use what you need. Keep that in mind.
GLUING EVERYTHING DOWN
Put simply, in this step you glue everything else (The batteries, charge circuit, A/V board) to the bottom piece of the case. Glue the batteries in the center, because they are the heaviest. You want your portable to be balanced. I used six small blobs of hot glue to hold the battery in. I glued the battery short protection board down, and the charge protection circuit. I glued the A/V board to the bottom, right at the edge. See picture one for the gluing setup, and see 2 for a close-up with all the wires attached. You also need to glue down the NES's regulator. I found that the most convenient place to put it was on the corner of the NES board. First I glued down a piece of cardboard, then the board. Check out picture 3.
In picture three you can see a close-up of the battery protection board. I took out the old battery connector and replaced it with my own. Picture four is the cable for it.
THE CHARGE AND A/V OUT PORTS
Picture 6 shows the A/V out and charge ports. In between them is the charge indicator. When the battery is not fully charged, the light is yellow. When the battery is done, the LED turns green. Some of you may recognize this LED from step 2 of my salvaging PCB parts Instructable. It pays to keep this stuff, man!
MAKE HOLES FOR THE JACKS
With everything glued in place, you need to make the holes for the A/V and charge ports. You need to set the back panel on top of the case, and see where the ports are. Using a file (or your Dremel), cut away a square hole big enough for the charge port. Then you have to drill a hole for the A/V out port. It's a little difficult to do this accurately, but do the best you can. Take a look at pictures seven and eight.
HOLES FOR THE SCREWS
Now, flip your case over and drill holes in the corners, big enough for your long screws. You want the holes to be as much in the corners as possible. Turn your case back over (so it's upside down) and put the back panel on. Mark spots for the screws in the back. Take the panel off and drill the holes.
INSTALL THE SCREWS
Take your screws and put them through the holes in the top and through the bottom. Screw on the nuts, nice and tight. The screws I used weren't really screws, but like a hollow, threaded tube. It's hard to describe in words. Check the last picture to see what I am talking about. These just happened to be long enough for my case.
This is it. The moment of truth. Pop in a cartridge, and flick the power switch. Bask in the glow of the screen. You have made light. And see that it is indeed good.
Back plastic piece
Drill and bits
Hot glue
Long screws and nuts
File
After all this hard work, now you get to finish it all up! You must be bursting with excitement! You probably don't even need these instructions. If you don't, good for you! Go finish your portable! If you do need these instructions, read on.
Hot glue is your friend. But in a transparent case, you don't want to use too much. Only use what you need. Keep that in mind.
GLUING EVERYTHING DOWN
Put simply, in this step you glue everything else (The batteries, charge circuit, A/V board) to the bottom piece of the case. Glue the batteries in the center, because they are the heaviest. You want your portable to be balanced. I used six small blobs of hot glue to hold the battery in. I glued the battery short protection board down, and the charge protection circuit. I glued the A/V board to the bottom, right at the edge. See picture one for the gluing setup, and see 2 for a close-up with all the wires attached. You also need to glue down the NES's regulator. I found that the most convenient place to put it was on the corner of the NES board. First I glued down a piece of cardboard, then the board. Check out picture 3.
In picture three you can see a close-up of the battery protection board. I took out the old battery connector and replaced it with my own. Picture four is the cable for it.
THE CHARGE AND A/V OUT PORTS
Picture 6 shows the A/V out and charge ports. In between them is the charge indicator. When the battery is not fully charged, the light is yellow. When the battery is done, the LED turns green. Some of you may recognize this LED from step 2 of my salvaging PCB parts Instructable. It pays to keep this stuff, man!
MAKE HOLES FOR THE JACKS
With everything glued in place, you need to make the holes for the A/V and charge ports. You need to set the back panel on top of the case, and see where the ports are. Using a file (or your Dremel), cut away a square hole big enough for the charge port. Then you have to drill a hole for the A/V out port. It's a little difficult to do this accurately, but do the best you can. Take a look at pictures seven and eight.
HOLES FOR THE SCREWS
Now, flip your case over and drill holes in the corners, big enough for your long screws. You want the holes to be as much in the corners as possible. Turn your case back over (so it's upside down) and put the back panel on. Mark spots for the screws in the back. Take the panel off and drill the holes.
INSTALL THE SCREWS
Take your screws and put them through the holes in the top and through the bottom. Screw on the nuts, nice and tight. The screws I used weren't really screws, but like a hollow, threaded tube. It's hard to describe in words. Check the last picture to see what I am talking about. These just happened to be long enough for my case.
This is it. The moment of truth. Pop in a cartridge, and flick the power switch. Bask in the glow of the screen. You have made light. And see that it is indeed good.
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |
3
comments
|
Add Comment
|
Jul 18, 2009. 7:27 AMsea34567
says:
do you need the li ion protection board if you have rf box on
Reply
Jun 9, 2010. 5:31 PMredsoup
says:
You need it in general
Reply
9
Jul 18, 2009. 11:01 AM1up (author)
says:
Yes.
Reply
 |
Add Comment
|
