Step 6: Assembly of the Carcass

You'll need a helper for this first assembly step.  Most of the other ones can be done solo.   Reference the top view drawing.

 Before you start assembling the carcass, make sure that you will have enough room and a plan to get it to it's final location.  It is 26" wide which should fit through any doors BUT it is 87" long so it may be tough to get around corners.


- Lay the Bottom piece "G" on a flat work surface.  I use an old door on adjustable saw horses.  Set it up so the back and right side are hanging over the edge of the work table.  You will be shooting nails up into this area.

- Put Glue on the bottom of the back piece "Back" and get your helper to hold it in place. 

- Put Glue on the right side of the "Back"  where piece "E" will connect to it..

- Put Glue on the bottom of the right side piece "E"  and get your helper to hold it in place against the back piece.

- Shoot 3" framer nails to secure the right piece "E" to the "Back" piece.  Shoot nails from underneath into the bottom to secure the Back and piece "E" to the bottom.  Your helper is done!

- On the Back of the carcass, mark 42.75" from the right edge and draw a vertical nailing line on the back.  Drill a few small holes through this line to carry through your vertical nailing line to the inside. 

- Put glue on the back and bottom of "C2" and center it on these nailing holes you just drilled.    Check with a square that "C2" is 90 degrees square to the back and to the bottom.  Nail through the back to secure "C2".

- Put Glue on the front of "C2" and on the bottom of "C1".    Center "C1" on the front of "C2" and nail through "C1" into C2".

<p>This is great and exactly what I was looking for. What is the thickness/depth of the TV? I just want to make sure my TV would fit with your specs. </p>
<p>I used a 1.5&quot; thick 60&quot; TV in my cabinet. It all still works great. If yours is significantly thicker, you may have to modify the design. See the detailed word doc. This is a side view picture of mine.</p>
<p>It took a little bit of time and a good amount of tweaking (mostly because of the size of my TV &amp; wanted a different aesthetic), but here's my finished product. Thanks again for the ideas and for sharing your plans! Your plans helped me get started and all I did was just made some minor changes to fit my needs.</p>
<p>Wow! That looks great. It's nice to not have a big black screen on your wall when it's not being used. I hope you enjoy it for many years.</p>
How do i get it in nigeria<br>
Hello ihart! Loving this project. My husband and I are very quickly about to finish our master bedroom and designated a spot to do a tv lift cabinet and planner plenty of electrical. I want to get our lift, or perhaps get it on the Christmas list! My plan was to order a kitchen cabinet as I can get a very good discount, and tweak it. Why did you choose this brand for lift? Do you think we could tweak a cabinet and make this work? We built our home and are quite handy. I was thinking we would just have cabinet maker not attach the top of cabinet as a few lifts have the lid attached to the top of the lift so when closed it is the cap. This lift wants a hinged lid? Thoughts for me? Thanks!
Hi,<br>I chose the lift because it was the only quality lift available with IR control at the time. Not sure if they have competitors now.<br><br>Yes, you can use a cabinet. You'll need to make sure it's wide enough for the TV. You probably need to go custom and not tweak a standard base cab. The top needs to have a piano hinged lid as I did. You want to buy a universal remote that can learn the IR code for the lift so you can do the raising and lowering with one remote as I did.<br><br>Post a pic if you build something. Good luck!
Very nice. How long did it take you to build the cabinet and (please don't be modest as there is to much money at stake) what do you consider you level of carpentry expertise? I haven't read the entire write-up, but how much of the $1,200 is the cost of the lift itself?
<p>I want to have a go at making one of these but I'm hoping to try pick up a linear actuator and attach a TV bracket onto it to save on $$$. The trouble I'm having is working out what size actuator I will need. I have a 32&quot; TV that is 450mm high, so I'm assuming I will need one that lifts up to 500mm(ish). Is this correct in your opinion? And will there be any other measurements I will have to take into account?</p>
Hi Max,<br>It sounds like what you are describing might work. I bought the Firgelli lift to avoid that part of the design because I'm not good at it. The purchased lift has the top and bottom senors and IR control built in. The top sensor which is the TV height has a programmable stop which is important unless you make yours go to an exact height or can move the limit switch.<br>Let us know how it works out or make an instructable to share if you have good luck with this!
<p>Congrats for the project, can you please tell me how does the TV turns on on the way up?</p><p>Cheers,</p><p>Filipe M&uuml;aze Guimar&atilde;es</p>
Thanks. It uses a programmable remote control. I have a Philips Pronto Pro. Logitech Harmony remotes are also good.
<p>Hello , what is the name of the telecomande used ?</p>
<p>Thanks for sharing. I believe you made a calculation error there.. $(760+225+30+22+28+8+30+45+38+13+45+6+3+5+5)=$1263</p>
Thanks. I updated the cost info.
<p>These are great instructions! What do you think would be the minimum depth needed to install a lift like this. I'm hoping it could fit into a 9&quot; deep wall. With a 1.2&quot; Tv. </p>
<p>I think you will need a cabinet depth of at least 12&quot;. See pics:</p>
<p>Its awesome but your couch is facing the wrong direction:(</p>
Can this lift be used upside down? I want to put a tv in my bedroom and make it disappear into the ceiling when not in use
Yes it can! Check this drop down lift out from Firgelli:<br>https://www.firgelliauto.com/products/drop-down-tv-lift<br>
<p>This is totally awesome :) Just what I'm looking albeit for a slightly different purpose. Perhaps I could include a TV into the design. </p><p>Do you happen to know if you can attach two LCD monitors to one of the lifts or would this need to separate mechanisms </p><p>Cheers :)</p>
Hi David,<br>It looks like you could mount 2 LCD monitors to a TV lift. I'm not sure what your application would be. They make brackets that hold 2 LCDs for example:<br>https://www.google.com/search?q=2+lcd+monitor+bracket&amp;tbm=isch&amp;tbo=u&amp;source=univ&amp;sa=X&amp;ei=O4L0VKqkMsWigwSVlYGwDw&amp;ved=0CFoQsAQ&amp;biw=2261&amp;bih=1113#imgdii=_
Hi, Thanks for your reply.<br>I was looking using Openbuilds to build a vertical linear actuator and possibly attach a couple of wall brackets to a cross bar to enable monitor movement once they're been deployed above the desk. Any ideas how much load stepper motors can handle?
<p>Well... in answer to your question, a stepper motor can lift an infinite load with infinite gear reduction.. ;-) You are trading off speed vs. power. It depends how long you are willing to wait for your LCD monitors to rise up. </p><p>The Firgelli lift I used takes about 20 seconds. The lift has some huge motor in it and is made of steel. It feels like it weighs over 50 (imperial) pounds. </p><p>FYI, there are some other linear actuators out there that may work for you as well. For example, these cost ~$150, move at 2&quot;/sec., max load = 35lbs, and max height= 20&quot;</p><p>http://www.robotshop.com/en/track-actuators.html</p><p>Good luck with your project. Let me know if you make your own custom lift.</p>
<p>I first saw this a few months ago and review it now and then. Really great Instructable.</p><p>I am thinking of building something similar but it will be freestanding behind a couch in the middle of a room. I don't need it so deep and am wondering if you think your cabinet would be stable if it were not next to a wall? It doesn't look like you attached the cabinet to the wall or the floor. I would likely make a cabinet for a 60&quot; or 65&quot; TV and don't need the storage on either end. I'm a little worried about stability when the TV is raised and what the best depth is to be stable but not take up too much width behind the couch.</p><p>Thanks!</p>
<p>hi, and can know where you purchased the lift tv ? i'm italian sorry for my english</p>
<p>The Link is in the first item in Step2. For translation to Italian, try using:</p><p>https://translate.google.com/</p>
<p>This is fantastic - I've gone pro with instructables.com so that I can use your instructions. I'm in the UK, the nights are getting longer so it's time to fettle in the garage. I just hope my skills are as good as yours and I can do it justice! However, I am trying to download the tv_lift_cabinet_drawings.doc but the website is blocking it. Can you help, please?</p><p>I'm thinking that I might make a hinged door on the front left to expose the &quot;boxes of tricks&quot; instead of having the IR repeater. Push to open closure device required. Do you think that would work?</p><p>Thanks,</p><p>Matt</p>
<p>Hi Matt,</p><p>Thanks for the note. I'm not sure what you mean by a &quot;make hinged door on the front left.&quot; There is a hinged door there with a soft close hinge. I think you can see it in the demo video. The IR repeater sensor sits up high and repeats the remote control signals to the hidden components, lift and TV.</p>
<p>Hi again,</p><p>Thanks for your reply. I'm convinced to go for the IR repeater; you're right. it will just make things easier in the long term. What I meant by the doors was to have one on the left and one on the right on the front; your one on the left is on the side. I don't know if that is going to cause some issues. I have plenty of wall to work (100&quot;) with an a 50&quot; TV.</p><p>What I really need is the tv_lift_cabinet_drawings.doc that is linked in the instructions pdf in section 4. When I click on it I'm told &quot;403 Forbidden - Request forbidden by administrative rules&quot;. Any idea how I can get it? See the image below if you're not sure what I mean.</p><p>Thanks for your help - I'm very excited about starting this!</p><p>Matt</p>
<p>That's great that you are going forward with this project! As you said, if you have plenty of wall, you can have your components come out the front. Just measure your components and make sure you have enough room for their depth.</p><p>The plans should be here. I see a link and can click it to open them. I dont have to be logged into google to see them.</p><h2>Step 4: Wood Parts Detailed Plans, Cut List and Cut Drawings</h2><p>The following Word document:<br> <br><a href="https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9NRwEqGVuzmMm1sNkZJdUhRREE/edit?usp=sharing" rel="nofollow">https://docs.google.com/file/d/0B9NRwEqGVuzmMm1sNkZJdUhRREE/edit?usp=sharing</a></p><p>If this doesn't work, message me your e-mail address and I will e-mail the doc file to you.</p>
<p>Do you know anywhere where a cabinet like this can be bought from?, or a builder in the UK who would be happy to undergo a project such as this? Thanks</p>
<p>Great job! Cabinet looks great. Do you know if you can mount an extendable swivel arm on the lift? </p><p>I would like to do the same thing you did with an existing cabinet that is beside my fireplace. The issue is that the cabinet is recessed about 5&quot; back from the fireplace so the view is cut off. If the lift could accommodate an extendable swivel arm then I could just auto-lift the TV and then manually pull it out to clear the fireplace. Any thoughts?</p>
<p>Thanks. I understand what you are saying. I imagine that your idea will work fine. Contact Firgelli automation to ask if the swivel will fit they're bracket. I think it would.</p><p>If you do this, obviously make sure you secure your cabinet to the floor so that it can handle the cantilevered mechanical advantage of that TV sitting a few feet in front of the cabinet. Another remote risk is a kid trying to grab the arm and swing off it which could be deadly if the cabinet is not secured to the wall and ground.</p><p>Let us know if you make this!</p>
Great project but for those of us who don't have a G to spend on a projectI think you could have reduced the cost by quite a bit. Using birch plywood only then paint it white seems like a waste of money to me. Granted if you were wanting to have a stained or natural wood finish I can see spending the extra money to have a nice grained wood but in this case I think in this case you could have cut your wood cost in half. Just my opinion though.
Seriously? You signed up to Instructables just to make this comment? What wood material can you recommend that can be edge glued and painted to a desired color to match the trim in a room? Not particle board. That wont work. How exactly would you cut the wood cost in half?
<p>Hello </p><p>When the TV is closing down the lid from the cabinet closed after the tv ? What did you use to do it and how did you do it ? Thank you for a quick respond</p>
I'm not totally sure I understand your question but the lid closes with a piano hinge and gravity. Home Depot sells the piano hinge. See the videos and pictures.
I'd love to build something like this but the dang TVs are never off around here so it would be pointless. :D
@drose25:<br>One of the reasons I built the lift cabinet was to make it a little harder to watch TV. The TV is down most of the time since when you shut the TV off, it drops back down. If you really want to watch something or play the Xbox, it takes 20 seconds for the thing to come up. My kids don't &quot;default&quot; to it. They will consider other options as well as the boob-tube.
This is exactly what I was looking for. You did a wonderful job! Thanks for posting such an excellent project. I only hope my finished product turns out half as well.
Thank you! Please post pics of your project and let us know how it works out. The lift cabinet we have is still used a few times a day and is going strong.
Nice project! Idea: instead of the infrared receiver hide it in the doorknob. I think I will build a similar construction too. I have the old set-up of an electric projector screen, first measure how much it can lift, second measure tv and rig, add counterweight if needed, get 4 telescopic drawer slides and have bottoms facing each other for stability. The motor/tube has adjustable end-stops so you can set min and max depth via wire-thread movements, or add the sensing switches in the top and bottom positions...
Thanks! If you build a lift cabinet, post some pictures. <br> <br>re: the IR receiver LED, you could hide it somewhere. I'm not sure a knob is a good place. <br> <br>re: The make vs. buy decision on a TV lift mechanism, we all need to make these tradeoffs when we build something. The lift mentioned in this instructable can reliably lift and lower a 60&quot; TV. It comes with standard brackets that mount to the TV and cabinet. It has a built in limit and over-current sensors. It has a built in top stop limit which is settable through IR command. It has a microprocessor to handle the IR commands and the limit switches. <br> <br>It sounds like you would have a very popular Instructable if you can reproduce this lift here in a way that would be easy and inexpensive for others to build.
Fantastic idea!
Looks awsome! Doesnt the cabinet vibrate with your sub inside it? <br> <br>I had thouts about build a cabinet likes this, but than mount the tv in the back of the cabinet ant the stereo equipment in front of it. <br>You dont find temperature problems with it like this? <br> <br>tumbs up!
Thanks for your kudos!<br><br>The sub woofer doesn't vibrate at all in there. It does a good job with the low frequencies. That said, I don't crank it all the way up for earthquake type bass. <br><br>Re: the temperature question, I've had a few comments about that. I've had it running everyday for almost 2 years now with no component failures. I have a thermometer in the cabinet above the components. It stays around 90degs F most of the time, if the wii or xbox are on, it goes higher. These components are certainly designed to run with an ambient temp of 100 deg F. Many people actually live in temps like that in the summer. <br><br>Also, there are many companies reducing cooling for their server farms because the cooling is not needed! For example, read this: http://www.scientificamerican.com/article.cfm?id=facebook-leadership-reduces-internet-growing-physical-impact
excellent work!!
Hi, the Word document generate at this moment an error : 403 Forbidden error. I am using Chrome browser on Windows 7.

About This Instructable




Bio: I'm an Electrical Engineer with "engineer disease." I need to always be making, fixing or learning about something.
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