Instructables

How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily)

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Picture of How to Make a Three Axis CNC Machine (Cheaply and Easily)
The idea behind this Instructable was to fulfill my desire for a desktop sized CNC machine. While it would have been nice to purchase an off the shelf unit the issue of price as well as size proved prohibitive. With this in mind I endeavored to design and build a three axis CNC machine with the following factors in mind:

-Use Simple tools (needs only a drill press, band saw, and hand tools)
-Low Cost (this kind of got away from me however with everything bought off the shelf the cost for all parts is under $600 (significant savings could be made by skillfully sourcing some pieces))
-Small footprint (30" x 25" footprint)
-Usable working envelope (10" X-axis, 14" Y-Axis, 4" Z-Axis)
-Relativly fast cut rate (60" per minute)
-Small part count (fewer than 30 unique parts)
-Easy to source parts (all parts available from 4 sources (Home Depot + 3 online sources)
-Ability to cut ply-wood (Succesful)

Lets get started...

UPDATE: - Coming soon the ability to order pre-cut MDF pieces from oomlout
 
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Step 1: Others Who Have Finished

A salute to those who have laboured through to this point (and to demonstrate that it is reproducable) Here are some pictures of other peoples machines.

Photo 1 - Chris and his friend put together this unit; laser cutting the parts out of half inch acrylic. Not only does it look super it must weigh a ton. But kudos, anyone who's worked with acrylic knows laser cutting it is great but it is a very very unfriendly material to drill and there is a lot of side drilling in this design. Good job guys, check out more details (and photos including some testing with circuit boards) on Chris's blog rainbowlazer.com. I particularly like his work with making 3-d objects out of 2d cuts (here) .

Photo 2 - Sam McCaskill has finished his desktop CNC machine and it's looking really really nice. Super impressively he also resisted the urge to cheat and cut all his pieces by hand. I'm really impressed.

Photo 3 - Angry Monk's - With MDF pieces cut on a laser cutter and drive converted from toothed belts to threaded rod

Photo 4 - Bret Golab's - Bret has completed his and gone through the extra step of getting it setup to work with Linux CNC (a task I attempted and was foiled by complexity). If you're interested in his settings you can send him a message (Instructable ID: bretlyssii ) ). Great job Bret!

(If you have built one and would like it featured here, please send me a PM and we can arrange for the sending of photos)

Angry_Monk6 years ago
I started to build this over the summer. i had the parts laser cut at my college from the DXF file. i just completed it a week ago after modifying it for better precision on the X and Y axes. i replaced the belt dives with threaded rod so now i can step forward 0.001" no problem, i think i can even do 0.0005" fine.

modifying the X and Y axes for threaded rod control isn't that bad, the only hard parts were making the new motor mounts and controlling both sides of the Y axis with one stepper. i ended up controlling both the Y axis threaded rods (one on each side) by mounting the timing belt pulleys on the ends of the threaded rod and running a timing belt around the rods on the back of the machine.

the reason for all this is because i want to do very small precise machining. i already have milled a couple propeller molds, to lay carbon fiber over, that are 1" in diameter and need 6000 lines of G-code to mill. i actually have another being milled right now. they came over very nicely.

i have a video of my machine in action but its hard to see any details of the prop because of its size and because my camera won't auto focus during a video. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_rdFn6b7b6o

Nice build excellent instructions tried to find wiring schematic is there one ? ...Jerry
I bought a Probotix kit for this CNC machine, and the product webpage has a wiring diagram. Check it out:

http://www.probotix.com/3_axis_stepper_motor_driver_kits/3_axis_probostep_stepper_motor_driver_kit/
Hi I, like you, prefer to use threaded rods. Do you have a drawing of the modification? Thanks and best regards from now Hector Ushuaia
Hello,
I'm building one right now. The purpose of the machine is to mill PCB's i need the machine accurate to 0,001 . Did you try the machine with the standard building? How accurate it worked? Can you put images of the changes you have done?
yes, i tried the machine with the standard planes. the Z axis is fine at 0.001" res, probably more. the X and Y belt driven axes were only good for about 0.002" res. note my micro stepping was at 1/4. i didn't want to increase micro stepping because that is more of a software way of increasing resolution, i want to increase resolution the hardware way so i know i'm really getting what i want. when i switched to threaded rods i did get a slower traverse speed on those axes but increased accuracy. i also needed a larger stepper for my Y axis because it was driving two threaded rods as opposed to one. a final note is that i used (2) screw in T-nuts to attach each threaded rod to the machine (and ball bearing at the ends for support and to reduce friction). the purpose of two T-nuts is so that they can both be attached to the machine but tightened against each other a little to help reduce backlash. this creates more friction on those axes but it greatly reduces backlash to near nothing. for this mod i just got a 205oz-in stepper from HobbyCNC, and a 77" timing belt (same type as the kind used here) from mastercarr. everything else: timing pulleys, 1/4" bearings, 8mm bearings etc.. i reused. i used the 8mm bearings to fashion some extra pulleys on the back side of the machine for the 77" timing belt.
IMG_8234 (Large).jpgIMG_8235 (Large).jpgIMG_8236 (Large).jpgIMG_8239 (Large).jpgIMG_8240 (Large).jpgIMG_8241 (Large).jpgIMG_8242 (Large).jpgIMG_8243 (Large).jpgIMG_8244 (Large).jpg
oomlout (author)  Angry_Monk6 years ago
Wow, not sure I ever thought anyone would actually complete the build but your machine looks awesome (sorry grew up on ninja turtles). Would you maybe have a photo which includes the full machine I would love to add on another step to the Instructable showing other peoples versions. (could you send it to me in a private message along with any relevant info you'd like included about your machine (of course only if you'd like it to be there) Also very impressed with your conversion to threaded rod, there are a lot of applications where the toothed belt just isn't precise enough.
Dodgy oomlout5 years ago
In addition to my previous question, re rod vs belt drive, how does the tightly strung inox (stainless steel) wire compare? If I can get inox rod at a reasonable price, would that be the best thing to use? If I chose rod. I would like the highest amount of resolution I can get. I know that the finer the pitch of the thread is, the more resolution it will have, but what about the width of the rod? I thought originally that a thicker (M12) rod will be better, then I realised it would be heavier and harder for the motor to turn, and perhaps, give no resolution advantage, and perhaps, thinner is better! What's the deal? Thanks.
the pitch of the threaded rod is really what is important. you just end up creating a worm gear drive. for greater resolution use finer threads, it will amount to a higher gear reduction. its all about the gear ratio. the greater the number of turns the motor has to turn to get the machine to move a distance X the higher your resolution and also the greater torque the machine has (added bonus). you can get the same gear reduction using a belt system but you you will just need to gear the motor down before it drives the belt, which is a lot harder than just using threaded rod.
epo Angry_Monk6 years ago
Hi! Thanks for showing the details on the modifications you made of Stuart's instructable. I can see in your other image posted under "others who have finished" that you are using a ridgid laminate trimmer which have a variable speed feature. Let me pick on your brain and experience if you don't mind :) - How fast do you run the router? - where do you get your router or end mill bit? - what is the maximum depth of cut per pass do you subject your cnc? - Stuart indicated a feed rate of 60 ipm, do you have the same or you have another preference? - Have you used your cnc to cut mdf? I know that's a LOT of questions but will appreciate your insights. Thanks. Edgar
Angry_Monk epo6 years ago
its really not a lot of questions. sometimes you just have to ask, and i can answer. i run the router at close to max speed, i dont know the RPMs. i figure this CNC isn't exactly the most rigid one out there and if you cut at a decent speed things will flex a little, and i needed it to be very precise. so the higher the RPMs the less stress on the bit and such. you can get the cutting bits from Master Carr (they basically have close to everything, so if you ever need anything check there). for depth of cut.. again, i needed precision, so if you can sacrifice this you could cut lower. but i usually didn't go more than 1/8" deep per pass, and that would be a heavy cut rough pass. i think it got it to run good at 30-40 ipm, 60 is a little fast for the small parts i was cutting. when cutting i would go down to 3ipm. i haven't actually used the machine to cut MDF but i think it would do fine cutting it. i don't know how fast you would be able to go but you could cut it. a few things worth noting about this: when you pick a motor for this CNC make sure it has collets for 1/4" and1/8" tools. its a pain if it doesn't... but if you run into that (like i did) you can actually get a collet adapter from Drill Bit City.com. one major thing i noticed about this CNC was that although the I-Beam for the X axis traverse was strong in the Z direction (could take some weight) the carriage could rotate about the I-Beam (rotate about the X axis). this would make the carriage flex in a hard cut. if i were to redo these plans i would definitely do something to fix this. maybe add another I-beam about 4-6" away from the existing one to get more rotary support. i have to admin that after i built this it couldn't cut as precisely as i needed it to so i ended up buying a desktop CNC mill from Taig. since i already had the steppers and controller board from this i could buy the CNC ready version. but i do not regret building this, i will still keep using it as a CNC Router. it was great to build, it taught me a lot about CNC in general being that this was my first experience with it. but for those who just want to cut about good parts CNC style, then this works fine, plus its cutting area is huge (and easily scaled up.).
epo Angry_Monk6 years ago
Hi! Thanks for spending time to answer my query :) and your insights will prove to be very useful as I optimize the performance of my cnc. Fastest rpm assuming that you had what I have (i.e., ridgid laminate trimmer) should be 35000. Currently I'm running g ocde with feed rate of 12ipm and wow you did ramp it up almost 3x. That will save me time! But then the issue of precision is the downside. I did anticipate using 1/8 bits so got an adapter to fit into the 1/4 spec of the trimmer. I have no problem visualizing flexing problems you experienced. Like you, this is my first cnc encounter and the experience will probably serve me well in the future. Out of curiosity, where did you purchase your taig unit and for how much? Regards.
Angry_Monk epo6 years ago
i got the taig mill from http://cartertools.com/ , the guy that runs the site is really nice and helpful. i got the CNC ready version and that was about 1100$. i really like it, its very nice and precise.

just an FYI, i could run this CNC router at 30-40 ipm but that was only rapid traverse. when cutting i went much slower. and even on 30-40ipm you can miss steps, 12ipm is better, but i would only go up to 20.
epo Angry_Monk6 years ago
thanks
Got the dxf file around you can post?
He has the DXF for the parts under step 4.
Torito5 years ago
Are the y axis rails round or square? I couldn't find that out...
They are round. The only parts that needs square tubing are the "bearing blocks". These are what will have bearings attached to them so that they can slide along the rails.
bearing.bmp
Thanks GalaxMan7!! I understood the bearings system, kind of autocenter rail and hard to move perpendicular to the rail. Excellent drawing! :) Do you have/know/test the diameter of the rail? What is the material of the bearing blocks, aluminium or wood? Thanks for your time.
The diameter of the rod is .5" DIA (aluminum). The square tube is .75" square (also aluminum). The bearings are 8 mm ID and 22 mm OD. Also, I forgot to draw the nuts on the end of the bearings that keep them on. I hope that answers your questions ;)
qyy galaxyman74 years ago
 can u tell me the rpm and horsepower suitable for this machine.
tq


monsywalker_qd@yahoo.com
galaxyman7 qyy4 years ago

I would suggest at least 100 oz-in torque for the stepper motors. I have 200 oz-in on my machine and they work great for pretty much everything.  As far as RPM and horsepower, steppers aren't usually rated like that. 

qyy galaxyman74 years ago
 can i have a schematic diagram for pic card to the stepper motor if iam using 4wyre stpper motor?
galaxyman7 qyy4 years ago
4 wire motors are bipolar steppers. The direction of the current must be switched back and forth for these to work.  Hobbycnc sells the driver board that works with unipolar or bipolar.  If you don't want to buy it, look for a circuit online. Google "Bipolar stepper motor driver"
Excellent, more than I expected. Thanks.
ref:How to Make a Three Axis CNC... Hi I want to make this machine. I saw your post in youtube. I need some help. I have a question. What keeps the machine on the track? (Y axis) Only the belt? I, like you, prefer to use threaded rods. Do you have a drawing of the modification? Thanks and best regards from now Hector Ushuaia
Ok, here is a few pictures.
original.bmporiginal2.bmporiginal3.bmpmodified.bmpmodified2.bmpmodified3.bmp
Thank you very much The diagrams are simple and clear. I follow with my questions. That keeps the machine on the rails? The threaded rods? Greetings
Yes, the threaded rod keeps it on the rails. I recommend using a thicker threaded rod so that there is very little movement. 3/4" would be perfect. You can get a PVC pipe coupler from 1/4" to 3/4", then you can drill holes into the side and put set screws through to hold the threaded rod to the motor shaft. Here is a website for an adapter.
http://www.gtghydroponics.com/store/0-0-715.htm
Hello Thank you very much for your attention. I agree. The threaded rod should be thicker. My problem is I'm planning a mini-mini version of this machine, using printer motors, it is possible that 3 / 4 is too much for these little motor. A possible solution could be carriers for bearings rotate 90 degrees. I should change the table a bit. Greetings Hector
Another way would be to add a seperate rod that the cart can slide on instead of relying on the strength of the threaded rod.
OK. It could be a solution. It will take a bronze bushing or bearing. Another possibility I've seen is to use an angle as rail. Deputy quick scheme. Greetings
riel.jpeg
The angle with the two bearings works only if you have a method to tighten them onto the rail. This means you either have two on either side of a track that can be tightened inward, or you have a track on both the right and the left, where the distance between the tracks can be extended. The best is a combination with both. Here is a pic
rails.bmp
We agree. For simplicity, I only showed one side. So the vertical line is dotted. In a small machine, the table itself could be angled to accommodate the aluminum angles. best regards
Rick_kap4 years ago
Guys,

A big THANK YOU to the author of this instructable. Over the last 4 months, I have built this project, and it is up and running.
 
I did make some alterations as i felt it wasn't very solid enough but overall i would say this is the best instructable i've built.

These photos are a bit old now as i've have an additional attachment to be able to cut vinyl. I am also in the process of adding another attachment to be able to use the cnc as a plotter.

Thank you again

Rick_kap
IMG_0011.JPGIMG_0041.JPGIMG_0039.JPGIMG_0044.JPGIMG_0042.JPGIMG_0048.JPGIMG_0041.JPGIMG_0038.JPGIMG_0032.JPGIMG_0040.JPGIMG_0043.JPGIMG_0050.JPG
qyy Rick_kap4 years ago
 hye rick
can i know the specification of your stepper motor?
the rpm,and the horse power?

and cn u gve me a schematic diagram,electrical diagram and how do you modified it to be with emergency stop button

god bless u,,thanks

my email adress : monskywalker_qd@yahoo.com
katzsplat4 years ago
A big thanks to the author, oomlout for this terrific instructable.  I read this about one year ago, and purchased a kit from outland86 soon after.  I now have a fully working CNC machine thanks to them!

I want to provide a 3D model of this machine that I made in Google Sketchup for everyone to use to help learn more about how this machine fits together.  I've checked with the author, and he's fine with me providing it to the community.  I wish I had something like the model when I was first assembling the machine; it took a lot of trial-and-error to figure it all out.  Hopefully this model will make the road easier for future CNC'ers. 

I made this model because I plan to expand the Y-axis to 36", so now I have a virtual copy of my machine to modify.  Enjoy!

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=23e1c5366b479dca8963c446242873ee
oomlout-Three-Axis-CNC-Machine.png
So is this the modified version or the original one? Please tell me...
This is the original model, as designed by author.  I have not shared my expanded design with anyone else.
OK Thanks!!
Just what I was hoping for... I wanted the original version...

Thanks a lot for sharing this!!

-Wayne Rodrigues.
do you  mind exporting this in a seperate format other than Sketchup???
Sorry, I can't do that.  The Pro version of Google Sketchup is required to export to other formats, but I only use the free version.  Anyone who has Sketchup Pro could do this very easily, any volunteers?
"The Pro version of Google Sketchup is required to export to other formats..."
Not its not.  You just got to add some things to it.

Waddya want to export the file as?  STL?  DXF?  OBJ? .X?  Find the ruby script you want, download and install it.

By the way, Google Sketchup (free version) can also export COLLADA files (.dae or Digital Asset Exchange), which can be imported into a variety of other programs...
Sounds good robotguy4!  

To the rest of you: now you've got an easy way to convert the sketchup model to whatever format your heart desires.  Enjoy!
Very cool, thanks for doing this!
outland865 years ago
Jan 16, 2009. 10:00 AMoutland86says: HI all Just thought i would update the offer for kits with a photo of the parts you get remember its all the hardware only thing you have to supply is the stepper motors and the driver electronics and of course a computer...i can help with support for assembly and what software etc you will need to get up and running only 14 kits left and i am sorry but i will not be making anymore...$560 includes shipping to the lower 48 states. these are sold at cost as a courtesy to those who want to make this machine but do not have time or tools to make from scratch. call me 320 469 0347 in minnesota and i can setup a paypal invoice to you or arrange payment or you can just send the money to me by Paypal paul@thelostradio.com and i will ship it right out dont forget to look at my other post here for more details. as i said i am now offering some telephone and email support to help you get your machine up and running. see picture below
parts list and photo.jpgminibot3.jpgminibot1.jpg
Hi, do you have anymore of these kits available?
hello yes i do have a couple left we can also now supply stepper motors and MACH 3 software to drive the machine
What if I live in or near minnesota?
Hi, You can save on shipping if you pick it up. It would be $500 and If you would like to purchase the stepper motors from me that would be an extra $100 so $600 for the kit including stepper motors if you were to pick it up. Thanks
epo outland865 years ago
Hi! I know its been a long way since January but have to ask anyway. Do you still have the kits available? Thanks.
outland86 epo5 years ago
Yes we do have a couple kits left. My husband is in Canada on a fishing trip and will be back by the end of the week.. If you would like to purchase one the cost $560 including shipping to the lower 48 states. Please pay by PayPal using a credit card and we can ship next Monday. If you have any other questions I speak with him once a day and I can have him answer them then. Thanks for the inquiry. Julie Campbell
I am almost Ready to Make CHIPS ! I converted all my Axis to Lead Screws... and replace the Tool holder with a dedicated Spindle ! I modified the Original design... a little to accommodate my Needs. Thanks again to have Fired UP my Mind ! This has been FUN ! Will post a little movie once I get Her Moving !!!
DSC06195_resize.jpgDSC06182_resize.JPGDSC06198_resize.jpg
very cool! do you think, you could post some specs and illustrations for the Lead Screws conversion? thanks
I rather not at this time.. barvaKouzel. Not that I don't want to ! but it's not tested ... So I don't want peoples to Hang me to dry !!! Not yet anyway !!! LOL I just got my Transformer today and should find out soon if this conversion works... I'll keep you updated !!!
mattmolitor5 years ago
Pictures of my completed build. I didn't stray very far from the plans presented here. I used the bigger motors on hobbyCNC and made a wooden box for the electronics, but most of the rest is the same. I glued some of the parts (gantry beam for instance) where it seemed like it would add a lot of strength. Things I observed during my build + My mistake was to cut the parts for a tight fit, this was a mistake, a tight fit with mdf parts means broken parts. + A lot of the cross drilling can be accomplished as you place the parts together. This allows the other piece to be a guide for your drill. + The design doesn't mention limit switches. I could probably stand to add these as I have already crashed it a couple of times playing around. + Use a router for the slots, trying to cut those with a drill is tough. I purchased and used a trim router that I will use as my second generation cutting tool. + There are a couple of places cap screws work better than hex bolts because the design shows two hex bolts so close together they are difficult to tighten. On the Z axis I just used 1 bolt rather than 2. I glued this whole assembly together anyway, so 1 bolt is more than enough. + The author mentions cutting out the parts on a band saw. I did a lot of this on the band saw, but it is very handy to have a scroll saw for a lot of the interior cuts. + I am very tempted to convert this to lead screws for all axis (as many others have done). + Building the base plate for vacuum fixturing would be a nice addition with probably not much effort.
machine1.JPGmachine2.JPGmotor electronics.JPG
MonaliM113 days ago

Hello guys

This article is nice about the CNC MAchines.

But I can show you also 3 axis CNC Machines which became best selling CNC MAchines in the whole world.

Please visist the following page.

http://www.fermatmachinery.com/products

tambalay3 months ago

what is the measurement of all wood that you given take down

anadier4 months ago

These videos are really awesome. Do you use a laser cutting system to make this machine? I can't tell from the video if it's a laser cut or something else. Either way, it's very well done. <a href='http://www.actlaser.com.au/laser-cutting-technical-details' > http://www.actlaser.com.au/laser-cutting-technical-details</a>

sniffrumble4 months ago

Nice build excellent instructions tried to find wiring schematic is there one ? ...Jerry

Are the y axis rails round or square? I couldn't find that out...

Clandestine, can think of many fun places to 'hide' these.

Depending on how liberal you want to be with the spirit of USB dead-drops, this could easily be expanded to vehicles such as trains, buses and other types of mass transit. The added twist of having to locate the right train/bus/ferry, then right seat. Sort of like e-geocaching.

Is there a method to ensure the readme and manifesto stay on the drive and aren't removed by some cyber-hooligan, or is it just maintenance by users/you.

johnathon0075 months ago

I found these stepper motors that should work great for this.

http://www.goldmine-elec-products.com/prodinfo.asp...

29.95 each with 524 oz-in holding torque.

Heres the datasheet

http://media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Portesc...

jiffymanager5 months ago

amizing

calmlunch6 months ago

amizing

sheepbars6 months ago

Nice build excellent instructions tried to find wiring schematic is there one ? ...Jerry

outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
bond815 outland866 months ago

Where on the site are the pre cut wood parts available? I looked and can not find it.

Is it possible to extend the Z-axis beyond 4"?
Is it simply a matter of modifying everything to be taller? Is software going to be an issue? Any advice would be great.

Thanks for posting this! I cant wait to build one.

We agree. For simplicity, I only showed one side. So the vertical line is dotted. In a small machine, the table itself could be angled to accommodate the aluminum angles. best regards

blackstoneg7 months ago

can u please send me the draw of cut-to-be-out mdf pieces in cad please?
to grega.skufi@gmail.com
Thanks in advance

kgentry7077 months ago

I had success printing the 48 x 48 inch PDF using Adobe Acrobat Reader. Reader has an option to print across multiple pages with cut marks. I printed to 11 x 17 inch paper to reduce the printed page count. I folded each inner edge using the cut lines and then cut the paper along the folds. Next I taped the pages together with clear 1/2" "scotch" tape. I had a large 48 x 48 inch poster when done.

For gluing to MDF I applied blue painters tape to the entire MDF sheet. I used a children's glue stick on the blue tape and stuck down the trimmed pages. After the glue dried I cut everything out with a combination of jig saw and band saw. Had no trouble with paper staying stuck.

clickyummy7 months ago

Gotta get my mouth on some of them cocksickles.

cliffyd7 months ago

Cheaply and easily?

bearblue7 months ago

good

bearblue7 months ago

nice

bearblue7 months ago

nice

Tbus8 months ago

If anybody needs help with the CNC programming part I'm enrolled in a learn-at-home course in CNC programming that is very informative:

http://www.ciebookstore.com/cnc-programming-course

gazumpglue8 months ago

Nice build excellent instructions tried to find wiring schematic is there one ? ...Jerry

chimplost9 months ago

They are round. The only parts that needs square tubing are the "bearing blocks". These are what will have bearings attached to them so that they can slide along the rails.

Great Instructable for a CNC. I was just browsing the web, and happened upon it. I would recommend, that anyone trying to build this, or any other CNC, check out the company I work for, as our pricing and product seem to be a bit better than the source mentioned. Our site is http://www.buildyourcnc.com and just a quick check told me that our parallel breakout board is half the price, and an additional 2 axis, than the one linked from hobbycnc.com. Check us out, and maybe you will find more things we offer that you will be interested in, and or like to share with people. Thank you and have a great day.
steveazhocar10 months ago
Got the dxf file around you can post?
regaltaxlaw10 months ago
I'm building one right now. The purpose of the machine is to mill PCB's i need the machine accurate to 0,001 . Did you try the machine with the standard building? How accurate it worked? Can you put images of the changes you have done?
das123344410 months ago
can I use this cnc cutter to cut plastic parts and wooden parts???
mohamad sadegh11 months ago
Hello. I hope you are fine. I'm from Iran. Can you tell me how to build motors, servo control board do email. Sorry if you do not learn English. I'm help from Google Translath. . Thank you very much
das123344411 months ago
please help me !!i cant understand how to make y axis runner??
skymooncyprus11 months ago
good project
How hard is it to increase to y axis to 20 inches
How hard would it be to increase the table length to 20"? So the table would be 14" x 20"
cchappell51 year ago
I'm interested to see if this machine can be scaled up to 4 x 8 feet, I need to work with full size sheets of XPVC or plywood up to 1" thick.
david xu1 year ago
How much budget for this machine ?

Cool ! if any one want the parts of the machine , frame , driver , motor,spindle,ball screw ect ,please contact me at david@live.cn or skype:david02162
He has the DXF for the parts under step 4.
In a small machine, the table itself could be angled to accommodate the aluminum angles.
The only parts that needs square tubing are the "bearing blocks".
sharder1 year ago
About how much did it all cost you?
Here's what I spent to get my machine running, hope it helps:



$560 Kit from outland86

$384 Motor Kit from probotix.com (3x HT23-280-8 Stepper Motor)

$175 Mach3 software license

$400 Vectric Cut2D and Cut3D license

~$50 Misc. hardware

$0 Old computer with parallel port lying around
jj.inc2 years ago
I wan't a cnc machine pretty bad, but I have a few questions. I have a couple old printers, so could I use their stepper motors. What do I need for a driver, how hard is it to pair the driver and computer, and how to you configure the whole thing.
I haven't played around with printer steppers personally, but I doubt they would be strong enough to move all the weight of the CNC machine around.
antmanadam2 years ago
Could you substitute the 1/2" rod for simply 1/2" pipe like copper?
Yes, I think so. The rods are simply guides for the bearings to roll on. If the pipe is strong enough to support the gantry weight, then it will work.
pat40271 year ago
Would this setup be able to handle a router? and if so what modifications would be needed
I managed to install a Hitachi M12VC router on mine, but I had to do quite a few modifications. The Z Cart Holder was completely re-done to fit the router, and I also changed the Z Axis shaft to ACME Lead Screw. Once I installed the router, it was too heavy, so it would cause the carriage holding the router to tilt. I ended up counter-balancing on the other side of the carriage with some bricks. Now my X-axis motor has to move much more weight around, but it works reliably now.
awaxy1 year ago
Does anyone have autocad plans for this?
Back in 2009 I made a Sketchup 3D model of this CNC machine. (Look for my comment dated Dec 24, 2009). Hope this helps.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=23e1c5366b479dca8963c446242873ee

bijilbaji1 year ago
Me and my friend are tiring to build this and we cant find heads or tails of what line of circles are please we are new to this we have printed out real size design. are these engravings?? please help us anybody
Back in 2009 I made a Sketchup 3D model of this CNC machine. (Look for my comment dated Dec 24, 2009). Every part is modeled identically to the real thing. I suggest you download it, and then examine the parts in Sketchup to answer your questions.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=23e1c5366b479dca8963c446242873ee

jkellett11 year ago
Hi, I made all the cuts and I am about to drill, how would I find out how deep I should go for the grooves on the base?
Back in 2009 I made a Sketchup 3D model of this CNC machine. (Look for my comment dated Dec 24, 2009). Every part is modeled identically to the real thing. I suggest you download it, and then measure the part in Sketchup to answer your questions.

http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=23e1c5366b479dca8963c446242873ee

drexaq20151 year ago
How does it do machining aluminum? Is there much chatter?
Mannn, i have been wanting to build this machine since so long. Just cant afford to spend so much (college)..but i am getting the parts cut at college (water jet/masonite)..getting some used printers from craiglist for the steppers. Any donors for electronics/ spindle/hardware?
dowloand DXF archive?
john henry1 year ago
the hardware link is broken.
Nice Instructable, oomlout (reminds me of when I was learning German). I used some of the ideas on here for my CNC design. I didn't want to use MDF for the stage of my x-axis, but it is nice and flat and doesn't warp much

I'm not quite finished with building mine yet, so these photos inspire me to persevere.
I like this article. One of my resources when I started my build.

I'm building a fixed gantry and trying to keep all the moving axes light so my probably VERY underpowered steppers (NEMA 17s) can move everything.

My project is more of a sketch--I'm trying to learn as I go and make mistakes (something I'm good at).  I know this probably sounds ridiculous to the ultra-planners out there, but I've found that through mistakes and the openness to ideas is my best way to progress.

Enough about me, can anyone tell me why you would or wouldn't want to have a fixed gantry?  Is my idea semi-sound, or just stupid?
rica94101 year ago
Is there a way to increase the z axis aside from making the machine taller?
wolfbain51 year ago
can anyone post or email me the altered plans for using the threaded rods?
tchronakis1 year ago
hi i want to ask if any file (dxf or corel files) have toolpaths?? because a friend of mine had a cnc router for professional use...... sorry for my bad english!!!!!
plz can you send to me all the drwaing part for this machine by solidworks or autocad or catia
ReadyNerd1 year ago
I would love to see one built with 80/20. That would probably make the fabrication much simpler. I've used for years and you can design and have a kit fabricated at the manufacturer website. It's almost indestructible and infinitely changeable
Anybody out there still selling a kit with all the wood cut and drilled (or similar material)? I have the hardware and lack the skill to cut the kit accurately enough for the machine to function.
thanks
I just spent $85 at home depo and I still didn't get everything from there I needed. Can someone tell me what a "Bolt (#8 x 3"), and Nut (#8) actually is in actual part that can be found vs the 8mm parts. Has anyone built this machine using substitute hardware for the metric parts?
the bolt is a size #8 bolt that is 3 inchs long, and the nut is refering to a size #8 nut which fits a size #8 bolt the sizes should be labeled on the packaging.
Hope this helps!
Perhaps my question sounds dumber than I mean for it to. " #8 " does not refer to a metric or Iso standard so im trying to figure out what to do next.
A #8 is standard metrics has its own classification system
Vandirac HIRULE2 years ago
I guess what you are calling "#8" is actually a M8 metric bolt.
Your"#8x3'' bolt is technically called an M8x75 bolt
3in allen head #8 http://www.mcmaster.com/#91251A086
Anything below a 1/4" thread is given an indexed number from 1 to 12 for UNC and 0 to 12 for UNF.

The roughly equivalent of a #8 UNC bolt in metric would be a M4 as the recommended tapping drill size for a #8 UNC bolt is diameter 3.8mm and that of an M4 bolt is diameter 3.7mm.
Scott-3002 years ago
Am I the only one who played the Benny Hill music in the background whil watching this?
Scott-3002 years ago
Am I the only one who played the Benny Hill music in the background whil watching this?
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
May 1, 2012. 9:35 AMoutland86 says:
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
outland862 years ago
Hi Everyone

We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com

some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.

also for FREE....FREE....FREE

you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisnf a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com



waynerod4 years ago
Hi,
When you say X Axis Travel, you mean the distance the Dremel travels along the X axis?

Or do you mean that is the horizontal part of the base?

I guess it might be the first one right?

-Wayne Rodrigues.
Could anyone please tell me the measurements for the base??

Please......

-Wayne Rodrigues.
Wayne,

The footprint of this machine is 31 inches on the X Axis, 25 inches on the Y axis.  The X Axis travel is about 14.5 inches, and the Y Axis travel is about 10 inches.  

You can learn more about the dimensions if you download my Sketchup 3D model of this machine, which I posted down below.
SU Model? Down below where? I could seriously dig that!



Duh, I found it in SU 3D Warehouse! Nevermind!!
Thanks a lot!!!
Wurzberger2 years ago
I just started gathering up the material for this machine today. I was looking at getting a Dremel 4000 for the cutting head. Does anyone have any experience with this? They are about $80 on Amazon, and with all the attachments and option I should be able to use it for a ton of other things when I remove it from my cnc machine, but if its no good for a cnc machine I really have no use for buying it right now.
Hey all. FInally after a two year interruption to do some home renos my workbench is once again laden with the cut parts of this project. I was assembling a bit last night and came across a question.

The upper and lower x-axis rails - what holds them in place?
outland862 years ago
Just wanted drop in a note to let everyone know that makecnc.com is again selling the pre cut and pre drilled wood parts only kits for these machines as well as really comprehensive free plans and assembly guide for this machine
can be downloaded free from the website...this set of plans is a must to download even if you make your machine from scratch...as it has the DXF files fully cleaned and setup for cutting on any CNC router...
check em out if you are planning on making this machine
im a bit confused with step 3 of the assembly instructions, can anyone help?
arzie20004 years ago
Yes it's really easy to build a cnc machine, there are tons of DIY's out there... but what I noticed is that they hardly include the "brain" or the controller specs and schematic diagrams. I would like to suggest to instructables admin to remove the so-called "DIY-stuffs" that don't have complete information. it's deceiving and gives the readers "false-hopes" on accomplishing this project.
I have to agree with arzie2000 that there are so many different plans out their that claim to be diy cnc plans but they end before they are finished.
Either No or not enough electronic information.

As I am building my own cnc router I have had to study multiple approaches
to the controller end of my machine.

There is alot of information out there
it would be nice if someone could put that into plain english too, I have found that some people are making it look much harder than it all really is.

Maybe they like doing things the hard way... lol

I have tested my stepper motors and am ready for a power supply,
but it took me a long time to figure out what I need because of all
the different conflicting information everybody has different ideas !.

I really wasn't sure how much power I would need for a power supply
12v-24v-36v ?

Then I found what I needed at stepperworld.com
That was after buying a stepperworld FET-3 controller on ebay.

Taking a look at stepperworld.com made the whole picture so much clearer.
I found I could boost my motors (I am using 2nd hand nema 23 step 6 wire motors. ) with 50w resistors using a 12 volt power supply .

I copy and pasted them below from stepperworld.com .

Power Resistors (50 watt rating): $5 ea
Assorted values available...
0.3 ohm, 0.5 ohm, 1 ohm, 1.5 ohm, 2 ohm, 2.5 ohm, 3 ohm, 3.3 ohm, 4 ohm, 5 ohm, 10 ohm, 20 ohm




Heavy Duty Power Supply: $30

ATX type power supply has 3.3v, 5v and 12v with enough current to drive 3 motors in HI TORQUE mode simultaneously. AC power cord included. Power Supply is International (Input voltage range 100VAC to 240VAC) Power Supply is prepped to turn on without requiring any load or motherboard connection.



If you are looking and are overwhelmed by too many choices then I know how you feel.
You basically have two options, go stepper, or go servo. Stepper setups need motor drivers, and servo setups need motor amplifiers. You're not going to get good stepper performance at only 12 volts. You need to use a PWM chopper drive. Resistive dropping drivers went out with big hair in the 80s.

6 wire motors are unipolar types so that limits the drivers you can use. Most folks try to use bipolar motors for increased performance. I've made some unipolar drivers based on Allegro chopping drivers though. They're OK I guess.

I have some electronics background. I suppose it helps me out a little with all of this. That motor driver in the pictures will wind a motor up to about 2,500 RPM. Which is so so stepper motor performance today.
how do you set up your computer so i will control your machine?
@jtedder I will post a short video I am getting very frustrated trying to leave a reply my text keeps disappearing


hopefully this video will upload . it is not a fantastic video but ir shows
the wiring which no one would directly show me , even though I asked around on forums . I found my information through stepperworld.com
he answers his emails promptly and was extremly helpful.
I found that there are a lot of guys out there that take all the info they can find
and don't share it then other people that do share info and do go out of their way to help.
I spent a lot of time spooling through troves of information to build my own machine - is nearly complete and I did it very cost effectively. It can be done !

There are many people that don't want to wait and just want a plug in and go machine , others buy kits to assemble.
Some of us design and build everything from the ground up too.
after more than a year of doing research. i have finally managed to build my own cnc router. it's not easy as it sounds. the mechanical framework is just a piece of cake. as for the controller part, that is really a pain. As what mrmartyman7 says, just buy a kit instead, it will be much easier.
If I had the money I would go with anything by this guy.
His videos show step by step how to assemble from crossing the t-s to dotting the i-s. add him to your sunbscriptions watch and learn. He has a lot of videos and a brand new book on amazon.com. I want one !
anyone want to buy me a present , please ...lol

http://youtu.be/xHtQeHqw-Tc



I ened up not needing the resistors , I contacted the owner of stepperworld and he emailed me downloads of testing software that I was able to test my motors , power supply , FET3 board ect.. alkl works fine, now I need a full copy of mach3 software. I have put the homebuild on hold while I have been getting my new buisness going . Model train scenery products.
www.KLM-ENTERPRISE.COM
Skip Mach3. The stuff is braindead. Use EMC.
I guess you missed a few articles I've posted here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Parallel-Port-Break-Out-Board-BOB/

http://www.instructables.com/id/300-Watt-Linear-Power-Supply/

http://www.instructables.com/id/TB6560-Microstepping-Bipolar-Chopper-Stepper-Motor/

All the electronics for a CNC machine. It is really pretty simple. All you need a power supply, An interface between your PC and your motor drivers, and the drivers themselves. As easy as 1, 2, 3 !

I'm afraid the power supply you've recommended is not a very good choice for high performance CNC. 12 volts just doesn't cut it. Dropping resistors went out in the 80s too. My driver I posted won't work with your unipolar motors.

I've made some drivers out of Allegro ICs that would though. They are similar to the drivers the author bought. I just used older SLA series ICs and made my own sequencers for mine.

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/7711/pict0789w.jpg

I'm not going to say doing that is easy though.
full and truly comprehensive assembly guide for this project free download at www.makecnc.com
It is a pretty pedestrian design which in my opinion is not worth me pursuing. I'm looking for something a bit different than the run of the mill.
A complete electronics kit can be purchased on ebay for less than 200 dollars.
Do an ebay search for. "3 axis stepper kit nema 23"

An older Pentium 4 computer is ideal for controlling a CNC machine.
These can easily be found for less than 100 dollars.

The information shared here is a valuable resource for many people.
Suggestions that this information should be censored may be short sighted.



Just because it doesn't cover all aspects doesn't make it useless. Other guides cover making a controller board, and if you just want to choose one or set one up there are guides to that too. The same goes for choosing software.
I don't think anyone said useless , I try to learn something from every different machine I look at . Determining what is best suitable can be overwhelming .
Hope my input helps someone out that may be going through similar problems.
It is a great learning experience for sure.
Someday when I have more time I will post another update on my progress
but for now , If anyone has a question I will try to point you in the right direction.

No I'm not a PRO, but I also have seen some teachers that shouldn't be PROS either. I like this site and intend on doing more and more here to show the talents that I have in different areas that may inspire others .
That is how I learned everything I know , watching people doing things and also reading about them.
Yawn but long lectures do put me to sleep though !

Advice : Students do try to stay awake in class because the moment you
doze off you'll miss the piece of information that is most important.
ZippinZim2 years ago
Hello, everybody! Wanted to thank you all (especially oomlout) for these plans, your comments, suggestions, and motivation. I'm not a very experienced wood worker or machinist, but I really want to build this CNC machine for some flight simulator parts I wish to make. I'm sure I'll find a thousand other uses for it as well, so I'm pretty excited about it.

I've decided to document the build and you can see my progress along with some descriptions of what I've done at the folowing photobucket address:

http://s287.photobucket.com/albums/ll139/ZippinZim/CNC%20Machine%20Build/

This is one day's work (really one afternoon). I do not have a band saw, so I am either going to go to my dad's house to make the precision cuts or buy one for myself. I will be acquiring a drill pres as well.

Appreciate any comments, suggestions, or assistance anybody can provide. And thanks again to all of you!!
full and truly comprehensive assembly guide for this project free download at www.makecnc.com
Morne062 years ago
Hi can anyone plz help me id like to build one of these machines but dont quite understand how do you get the program from ur pc to the machine and how does the machine know wat to do

Thanks if anyone can help plz contact me at morne.araujo@gmail.com
full and truly comprehensive assembly guide for this project free download at www.makecnc.com
Can you please make a video for showing how you connected the motors and the circuital system in the cnc. These parts are screwing my head..................
Another question is can we make the circuit required for cnc by our own??
If yes please make a video on the topic.............
full and truly comprehensive assembly guide for this project free download at www.makecnc.com
I don't know if we can, but I know I can.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgbeyNNBZ68

Basically you have to supply power and ground to your motor driver, and step and direction input signals to it. Then hook your motor up. That's about it. Pretty simple huh?
outland862 years ago
Pre Cut wood parts kits are available for the Router at www.makecnc.com for $249 incl shipping. to the lower 48
also free to download are updated plans CNC fixed DXF's and a full and comprehensive assembly guide. that makes this project truly cheap and easy !
Darmani2 years ago
Hi, i hope you are still checking the comments, I am triying to build a cnc machine and ive been looking everywhere for plans, and yours are the ones that i found the best documented and easy to make, the only problem is that where i live its difficult for me to get the belt drive, and i cant order it online, so i was wondering if you could add 1 extra step to the instructable where you show the conversion from belt drive to a lead screw, thanks for your time.
jaminm62 years ago
Will you make a list of all of the hardware ,and other supplies needed , im about to start building one with a plasma cutter attached to it. I shopped around and was able to find all of the motors ,a controller ,all the adapters ,and a mil bit for $100. i Just need the exact numbers so i can order the hardware. THANKS!!!
tech15103 years ago
If you want true precision use ball screws. They will repeatedly
pfred2 tech15102 years ago
ballscrews have no more innate precision than all thread. They are simply more mechanically efficient. But you just keep right on believing the nonsense you do.
tech1510 pfred22 years ago
Sorry to inform you, ball screws are machined to a precision of 250nm per centimeter far higher precision than a threaded rod. Also ball screws are better in a CNC as they have the ability to move the assembly faster, require less upkeep, and effectively eliminate any backlash.
pfred2 tech15102 years ago
They can be, but what stops any other linear actuator from being just as accurate? You make it sound like there is only one ballscrew manufacturer in the whole world and they make only one kind. That simply is not the case. More likely you are only aware of one kind. Any manufacturer worth spit makes both rolled, and ground units, some with certificates of accuracy.

Then there are the evil downsides to ballscrews which you completely fail to mention. Such as the fact that ballscrews cannot hold without being held. Or, what do you do if you need to take the nut off the rod? Then there is cost to take into account. Any ballscrew that is certified for its accuracy is going to be a very expensive item. Any ballscrew is going to be more expensive than alternatives.
Wi113 years ago
Making up criteria before you started building was an awesome idea!
pfred2 Wi112 years ago
I make up criteria all the time. It's a gift ...
RobLoughrey3 years ago
The table is specc'd at 12x14x4, so I would think no guitars, maybe a ukalale?
you spelt ukulele wrong
pfred2 rgale2 years ago
A "ukalale" is another instrument Spock plays when he isn't playing his Vulcan harp!
kotten2 years ago
100 608zz bearings $35ish through ebay w/ free shipping ...rather than the parts listed VXB which charges $39.99 & $15s/h

3 shaft couplers from Grainger part# 6L012 $19

3 stepper motors through ebay for <$200
kotten2 years ago
Does anyone have the DXF file that includes the holes?
merdogan22 years ago
Hi!!

Can i use this for pcm milling and drilling? I want to use 24K rpm spindel motor and i'm planning for this project stainless steel

What is the sensitivity of the device?

for example i will open 0.20mm hole on 0.30 coper surface if it possible?

When i will complete drawing of this project on solidworks, i will send laser cutting.

please put your comments.

Thanks and Regards
You know what, cutting all these pieces would be a lot easier if I had a CNC machine.... Oh bother
crob092 years ago
I found a website with more info http://www.whatisacnc.com
crob092 years ago
hey check out http://www.whatisacnc.com it looks like it has potential lots of info on the cnc topic. I also found another website at http://www.cncstuff.com
crob092 years ago
hi I found a website at http://www.whatisacnc.com looks like it has potential for a newbe
Coinnich3 years ago
Just a question,

I’m not sure if I ended up getting the scale right for the pieces, ( I know this is going to sound like I'm a perfectionist, but why not try to get it as close as possible. ) When I measure one of the straight legs of the Belt Holder Brace I measure 4 9/32" is it suppose to be 4 ¼”?

Thanks
hey guys plz help i make this 3-axis drilling machine but i don't no which portable drilling machine are used....and where is available i try to find but in that drilling machine handle is available so i cant hold in my machine so plz help me and give me the reply...........
fferdian3 years ago
tried to built this machine, completely by hand, bit hard to cut out and drill in this thickness. now i wait for the pulley belt and the electronic part of this. any idea how to change the belt to threaded rod ? bit hard to find that kind of pulley here..
by the way, I'm from Indonesia. sorry for my bad english
IMG_20111013_225509.jpgIMG_20111013_225542.jpgIMG_20111013_225610.jpg
madyicstik3 years ago
hi? any more kits that are available? are you willing to ship to calgary ab canada? might be a stupid question but will a novice guy like me be able to assemble it no problem? im ok at assembling ikea furnitures.... what comes with the kit and what doesnt? madyicstik@gmail.com
msholden3 years ago
I built your CNC machine a while ago. I found it to be complete and functional. I have made 100s of wood projects with it and find it more than enough. I think you did a stand up job and congratulate your design. If any one is looking for a first machine to build this is it. I even etched a few PCB with. I built an aluminum one designed for etching PCB http://msholden.com/cnc.html
Picture 046.jpg
Metric6813 years ago
HI,
I have recently completed this Project. I changed the Head to a Router and made it 6 feet long. I was wondering if anyone else have done something similar. Also i am having accuracy problems like the machine is a 1/4 inch off after it machines awhile.
ProMt8Pge3 years ago
It looks like this site provides a method for cheaply making a full CNC mill:

http://sites.google.com/site/calculatingrisk/Home/cnc-mill

This project is very interesting too. Has anybody seen it before or tried to build it themselves?
atifmushtaq3 years ago
dear Sir,
could you tell me about all motor's spacification we need for this project and could you send me all of its parts with after payment with or without motors and contrller.
I will be very thankful to you.
Best regards,
A.MUSHTAQ
hussam.tech3 years ago
very nice work
kshanky3 years ago
sir,
from did you get the lead screws...
as much as i know .. they are very costly..
What would it take to be able to machine some steel with this design? Using metal pieces instead of the MDF? And stronger motors?
I think its an interesting design. And relatively easy looking to build.
mkane3 years ago
Would this CNC machine be capable of cutting 0.75" MDF or Aluminum?
squiggy2 mkane3 years ago
that depends on your cutting tool. you'd be stretching it with a dremel type rotary tool, but if you set the machine to move very slowly it'd work. but you'd have to replace the cutting heads more often
heelercjwww3 years ago
I just started building this cnc machine. The instructions are great has anyone tried ReplicatorG?
mrmartyman73 years ago
@jtedder 4 times I have tried to comment and my text has been lost .
testing testing 2 2 3 4 4
bleounis4 years ago
Approximately how many Dr Peppers will I need to complete this portion?
Great project.
hahahahahaha
RobLoughrey3 years ago
Actually the second step, but its the third page. Many of these people need to actually read the instructable before they start criticizing. I see all the info I need.
rawville4 years ago
i could use some advice for drilling the 5/16 holes on edge, especially the base. my drill press doesn't have that much clearance so i figure i'm going to have to twist the head and make a special jig for it. (never done this before) with only 3/32 space on each side, you have to be real accurate and i'm not sure i could do that with a hand drill. i also might make the base larger, so how would you guys drill these on edge holes on a piece that lets just say 8' long.
Your table should rotate/tilt, if you can go the full 90 degress, go that way.
What CAD software do recommend?
can i have this picture on dwg or dxf file
www.makecnc.com full free downloadble DXF ready to cut extensive assembly guides all free
Hi, I've tried to download the free plans but can't as when they are half downloaded it says the file is invalid. Any help would be greatly appreciated, could you e-mail them to me?
Thanks
CSwick23 years ago
I guess the biggest question I have is, if I follow these plans to the T, will the milling machine be big enough/have a big enough cutting area to cut out guitar bodies?

If not, how expandable is it without modification to anything but the dimensions?
Hello I'm about to buy those motors I found.
http://www.eminebea.com/content/html/en/hybrid_list/pdf/17PM-J.pdf
17PM-J503.
The guys who selling this told me that they come from an old copy machine and that he was about to use them to build a cnc.

If anyone can confirm this that would be really helpful.
Ciao

HS
barva583 years ago
Please some information about software (mach3) configuring. Really good job.
Thanks
what software do you use to make the g-code?
roloh3 years ago
i really appreciate you by share all this information! i am pretty sure that it would help me a lot!
Thanks man!
I'm having trouble opening the PDF file. It says "the pdf file is damaged and could not be repaired." How else can I open this file?

thanks!
Raziel_LOK4 years ago
Hi everyone, anyone can tell me if with this CNC setup i can cut MDF and acrilic? and what how thick can i cut?

Another question, What the name of that driller yellow collored (yeah i dont know how its called)? sorry, everything is new for me about CNC.

Thanks.
i imagine it all depends on the dremel and bits/attachments you get. Google "cutting acrylic with dremel" (sub mdf appropriately) there's a ton of information out there. People use dremels to cut these materials all the time. the reason I say "I imagine" is because yes maybe you can cut 1-1/2" mdf with your new bad larry dremel, but that may not mean your cnc machine's frame is built for that.
I have always wanted a CNC mill, but didn't want to spend a bunch of money just to have a tiny mill with barely any cutting area.  I am now inspired to make my own.  Do you have any tips for drilling into the edges of MDF?  Whenever I try it splits.

P.S. If I do end up making this, I will try to remember to count the amount of holes drilled.
hondaman9003 years ago
Interesting article today about DIY CNC machine: http://gearsofbiz.com/software/featured-kickstarter-project-diy-cnc-machine/
Raziel_LOK3 years ago
Hi, I really liked this CNC plan. I need it very bigger, can I just extend the axis and conserve the others parts? or i need to change something (like stepper motors)? I want to cut wood at most and probably usable area like 4'x4' or 4'x8'.

Thank you.
do you have the file for autocad dwg or dxf i couldnt get the dxf into autocad
is there anyway to not use as much materials to make the rig?
astronutski3 years ago
I am in the middle of constructing this CNC machine and was hoping someone could answer my questions.

It's not clear when cutting the Top Beam and Bottom Beam if the 1/4" holes are to be through holes or are .125" channels like the other 1/4" channels. They are not marked as such.

From the pictures it looks like the top is a through hole channel, but the bottom couldn't be. The bottom says "0.000" where the other channels say ".125", so I don't know if that's a typo, I can't figure it out. I've looked through and printed all of the pdf's and even all the pictures of this thing, but still can't quite see those groves.

Getting very eager to finishing this thing, I can't wait to start cutting things!

Please help!!!
Anyone? Please?

Are the 1/4" marked holes in the Top Beam and Bottom Beam channels? Through holes? Unnecessary? Why are there all those marked holes, but the note says "0.000"?
astronutski3 years ago
Incredible plans and wealth of info here! I'm brand new to CNC but am a long time tinkerer and woodworker/telescope builder, this is the next logical progression, not to mention the off the charts high level on the "cool meter"!

Can I please ask (and hopefully get responses to) a few questions?
1. What is this thing capable of? I would love to see what it can do, in say acrylic, cabinet-grade plywood, 6061 aluminum maybe? And at the same time, I'd like to see/hear what it can't do. I'm not looking to machine aircraft parts, but I can definitely see a use for telescope parts and other small parts for other hobbies, ie. Kite Aerial Photography :-)

2. Is it possible to substitute a real router in there instead of a dremel? I would do this just for the added range of material able to cut. I've also read somewhere that the dremel's bearings are too sloppy for really precise cutting.

3. I just now saw the talk about the threaded rod upgrade and will need to study that, that really sounds like something I'd like (I'm the woodworker that uses machinist rules and calipers as opposed to woodworking rulers :-)

Thank you millions!
Bill
aggrav8d4 years ago
A note of caution: I've been trying to build this machine. McMaster Carr will NOT ship to Canada citing export regulations. Any Canadians trying to do this who have succeeded, please point me in the right direction. Thanks!
Unfortunately you are basically out of luck with McMaster now. They will only shipped to "long established" Canadian customers. Luckily my workplace is one of those customers so I can sometimes include some of my stuff on company orders.
thepelton3 years ago
I have an Epilog laser, and with it, you can cut small round holes in acrylic. I have mostly been working in 3mm plywood however. I was considering doing some stuff in acrylic.
mateo99444 years ago
A note on the motors and controls section:
The hobbycnc kits seem nice because everything you need is in one package, but if you feel like tinkering in hobby electronics as well, you should check out sparkfun.com.
You can pick up an arduino(really nice open source micro-controller) for as little as $19, depending on which one you get. They also sell these stepper driver boards:
http://www.sparkfun.com/commerce/product_info.php?products_id=9402
which for $15 aren't bad. They would interface very easily with an arduino. They also have stepper motors but ebay is the cheapest way to go for those.
Over-all its about the same cost, but if you've never used an arduino, it is defiantly something you should look at.
nadav4 years ago
hi, im thinking of building this but i wanted to know if i could make the millable area bigger? if yes what modifications would need to be done?
thanks.
resipsa4 years ago
Time lapse video was awesome. You should have had your wife come in at some random point for a simulated quickie! Would have been comedy gold.
tgg4 years ago
I am very interested to make a small CNC machine at home. Plz, can you write me the details materials which i need and also i would like to produce small machine part with this small CNC machine.

Thank you in advance and let me hear from you.

Tgg.
aggrav8d4 years ago
Do you have any advice for someone looking to make a bigger machine? I'd like to build a 4'x6'x12" envelope.
VEnom024 years ago
Hello. I`m living in Lithuania and I can`t get 0.5" (12.7mm) thick MDF, only 12mm thick. So I want to ask if I need to do any changes to layout for cutting MDF that is given? Sorry for my bad English.
hectormena4 years ago
DEAR

I AM FROM ECUADOR AND IN OCTOBER 21TH Y WILL BE IN NEW YORK, PLEASE COULD BE TO HAVE SOME MEETING BECAUSE I WANT TO HAVE SOME MACHINE EQUAL AND I COULD BE TO BUY YOU THIS MACHINE. SEE ME IT IS POSSIBLE?
HECTOR
7raczyk4 years ago
Hey, great instructions on how to make a CNC machine. I could really use one for my projects but I have one issue with it, it's too small.

So here's my question, would it be possible to make a CNC (Using these instructions as a basis) that has a usable working envelope of 60"x 60"x 6"? If so, what parts would I have to modify to allow it to do that? Would the code also be difficult to modify?

Thanks for any future replies.
Just to ask, what could this possibly cut through? Metal hopefully. I am in a high school robotics team, and we would really like to have a CNC. And another question, could this be turned into a manual mill in the interest of cost and time?
timweaver174 years ago
What sort of bit would one use for the dremel? How does it work with milling materials other than wood and foam?
JOHN BLUE4 years ago
Anyone has a g-code or m-code for it? I would like to build it using my university's commercial CNC machine. I hope to hear from you soon. Thanks in advance.
mianderson4 years ago

I have many wood routers in my shop now how cool would it be to build this beast!
Idloid4 years ago
Hi hello I want to make one CNC for myself but the thing is that here in México I cant get some of the parts, specifically the ones for McMaster Carr because they have no shipping, so I was wondering if someone knows where could I obtain this materials? Please
waynerod4 years ago
Hey, Right now, I'm using LinuxCNC (EMC2). I cannot get it to work. I think my hardware (PC) may not be suitable. I'm thinking of trying out MAch3. Could u do a tutorial on how to set it up and get it running for this CNC Machine? Plz!!!! I beg of you!!!!
Draaxx4 years ago
I just completed the wiring and fired up the CnC machine. I recorded a short video of some movement tests I was doing today. Can't wait to start making some parts. I didn't cheat and cut out all the pieces using a jigsaw. Great instructable. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGPmmuWkB0w
Ok so do we use the coarse thread or the fine thread for the threaded rod
waynerod4 years ago
Hi, Right now I'm in a fix.. I don't have a DB-25 Parallel port on my computer. Where could I get that from??
If it is a desktop, you can add a parallel port card.
abadv84 years ago
If you plot the drawings on a laser printer, you can simply use a hot iron to transfer the details to your substrate as the toner is thermally activated... 
Bellimor abadv84 years ago
Just a note on this for anybody who wishes to use this method. It will be a mirror image of what is on the paper so if you have parts that are unique i.e require being cut on an angle or only partial depth keep it in mind as your left will become your right so flip the image before printing. Though from what i can see of the pattern it appears that it shouldn't really affect it, just thought I'd mention it as it is a common method used for etching PCB poards and I've seen many a board scrapped due to this
Good point. You could also have it printed as a mirror image
outland864 years ago
Hello all just a note to let you know the free FAB files (ready to cut CNC files) and a new fully complete assembly guide for this machine are nealry rready to go they will be totally free of charge downloadable at the link below and will be ready by end july 2010 the DXF files have been totally redrawn from scratch and have been designed to use to cut parts on any CNC router using a 1/4 inch bit with all parts dogboned to allow for a good fit on all parts(dogbones compensate for the raduis of the router bit on an inside corners) ENJOY www.makecnc.com
the free files are now available enjoy www.makecnc.com
volks094 years ago
I printed out the plans but they need to be overlapped ,fitted and taped together before laying them on the board. How can I fix this problem its seem like theres a small border around the edge of the paper ? I'm on a macbook pro and I scale to 100%. Help please !
madmonky134 years ago
what would be a step up from a dremel??? and how well does a dremel work for routing??? (what would be appropriate for metal milling? thanks jordan
bombmaker24 years ago
You may want to add this tip to the gluing stage. Whenever I glue onto any wood product, I use a plastic spreader to move the glue around and press the paper firmly down, using the spreader as a sort of squeegee.
would be possible to use on to make one then!!
If the machine has a larger work surface than the one you want to make on it, then, yes you could. That is why he mentioned resisting the urge to cheat and go cut everything on another cnc mill.
waynerod4 years ago
Hi, Can anyone plz plz tell me.. what the "Coupling Nut" is used for in the "Z Axis Motion".. Also, could anyone plz tell me what makes the Dremel Holder (Z Cart Holder thing) move up/down according to the "Z Axis"?? IS it due to the "Threaded Rod and the Coupling Nut"??? (It would be nice if you could do it with the help of some pics/diagrams/videos) Also, for the Parallel port, DB-25 is needed.. whereas I have DE-15F. Could I use an adapter?? Or do I have to get a PCI Slot??? plz...plz help as soon as possible... Thanks, Wayne.
waynerod4 years ago
Can anyone plz tell me what do the many 0.25" holes on the base are for?

Is it for drilling a sort of place for the metal rod? if so, how deep does it have to be?

From,
Wayne.
Dear waynerid: It is detailed at the full size PDF.
geng06104 years ago
Can you put a laser instead of the dremel tool and make this into a laser cutter?
prosi095 years ago
How did you connect the motors with the computer ?
look on step 4
captnkrunch5 years ago
the software you name (lazycam) seems to import only 2D drawings. Do you have a recommendation for 3D models?
If you don't mind prices, MasterCam, Mach3, and TorMach all work very well. I'm not sure about the other free editions of the software. Try google for more advice.
Heres a better idea.. Steel plate for the base and a blue ray laser burner. Resin boards getting cut to size and etched. There artistic adverts great for putting on your windows. Ads for what? Simple ads for them on there windows and\or your business. Please someone do.
scoops424 years ago
 I have a couple of questions in regards to building this machine.

I see the link to the stepper motors but its gives me a couple options on packages, would you recommend the pro or the ez driver package.
also im looking to extend the table eventually once i get a feel for it. should i get the 130oz motors as recommended or should i go for the 305oz motors since they are only 30 dollars more for the package.  looking for pros and cons of that.
I also see the transformer is not included in the package. Do I need one?

and lastly  when I do extend the table is it just a matter of getting longer frame rails and adding support where is needed to keep the machine rigid or is there so more complications that i should be aware of?

Thanks for your help

Luke


hectormena4 years ago

DEAR
I WAS CHECKING THE WEB AND FIND YOUR DIRECTION, REALY I WANT A MACHINE TO CUT THE WOOD ( TABLES) ON 3D THE FORMAT COULD BE DO 2440MM X 2150 MM MORE OR LESS IF IS LESS NOT IS A PROBLEM TO ME.
SOME TIME A GO I HAS THIS MACHINE AND NOW I AM NEEDING SOME EQUAL ONLY TO PERSONAL USE AND NOT IS A PROBELM IF IS RECONDITIONED
PLEASE SEND ME ALL THE INFORMATION INCLUYED WHO JOINT THIS TO MY COMPUTER WHAT MORE NEED
I AM ON ECUADOR SUD AMERICA AND I SPEAK SPANISH EXCUSEME BY MY ENGLISH.

SINCERLY

HECTOR MENA

P.O. BOX 17-01-2876

QUITO - ECUADOR
 

Has anyone mentioned plasma cam. I had their litature sent to me once it was a plasma cutting tourch controlled bt CNC set up thir controlers set motors and programing might be great combo set up with the acrilic cnc body that looks so great. I belive a set up like this could be used to produce savanious wind turbines. the s could be routed into foam then a perfect circle cut out of foam. two sets of cuts is all thats required top plus bottom and two middles. the vanes coukl be pvc piping. the kit could ship flat and be assembled by owner on site with adhesives. the glued up balanced assembly could then be sprayed with a material like grancrete or polymer or some such weather proof uv resistant covering. all made with home made get up and highly repeatable with readiley available off the shelf components.
naveen.a0194 years ago
Can anyone tell me where can i find 100oz or above Used Stepper motors...?
naveen.a0194 years ago
hi, i just sold my cnc project which i built a year ago. I have been visiting this instructables from past 1 year...but never made my mind to make one..but have decided now to build this flawless machine. I personally feel that, if the drive is converted from toothed belt to threaded rod, would possess more rigidity in machining. Hence if any one has done so, could you please share some ideas. my email address is naveen.lobby@gmail.com.

Regards,

NAV
galaxyman75 years ago
Hi, I just finished this project after very long deliberation. I converted both the y and x axis into threaded rod. Everything works great except tthat when the dremel bit goes through the MDF that I'm cutting, the MDF burns and gets black. Even if I decrease the feed rate or increase the spindle rate it still burns. I have also tried slowing the spindle but that makes no difference. The bit I have is brand new 1/8 flat square slot cutter. On the package it says it can cut wood and other materials, but when it goes through MDF it just burns. Vacuuming the sawdust out while it is running seems to reduce burning, but the edges of the MDF are still blackened. Do you have any advice?
You need to get CNC bits. Period. Using anything else will get you poor results. I've bought everyone of my bits from Hartlauer Bits. When you call there, Mr. Hartlauer answers the phone and fills the order. He knows everyone on of the bits and which one you will need. Also, check out https://www.onsrud.com/xdoc/FeedSpeeds.
Thanks, this means I actually have to increase feed rate and decrease RPMs, which is not what i would expect, but I will try it. Thanks for the help!
qyy galaxyman74 years ago
 can i know the rpm and the horse power of the stepper motor
ydeardorff4 years ago
Id like to see the same thing but in a larger table size. Say 48" by 96" while keeping the Z axis at 4 to maybe 6 inches at most.
Id like the ability to use stock typically found off the shelf, and just slide it on to the table and start cutting.

Ive also heard replicating the cnc mill with the first mill you made will make the second even better, and more accurate.

Do you have prices yet for a pre-cut ready to assemble kit ready to order?
PM me to let me know.

Thanks
we have some kits left check my posts here under outland86
HI Outland

Does the kit have the steppers etc? What is the accuracy? Could this router PC boards with VERY small tracks?

DO you you have kits available? Will youship to South Africa - if so, how much?
Hello Shearder

the kit comes with all hardware and parts to assemble the machine itself
i does not come with steppers or any electronics ..(steppers available at makecnc.com)

The accuracy is dependant on how well you tune the machine and keep it tuned

Yes i have milled PCB's myself with mine but the results may or may not be up to other peoples standards it was fine for my simple projects. for very accurate PCB milling the best solution outside pro PCB mills is a Sherline CNC milling machine Running MACH 3 software with Sherlines hi speed spindle attachment. and a free copy of eagle CAD PCB routing software.
the Sherline Mills and Lathes are precision American made machines and can be used for a multitude of things www.makecnc.com

 due to size and wieght Shipping to South Africa would not possible it would cost more than the machine is worth.

 in the next couple of months i will be making available a set of DXF files that have been optomized for cutting the wood parts on a CNC wood router like  a Shopbot or similar machine you can then take these DXFs and have someone local cut the parts for you on there CNC machine. these DXFs will also have PDF files included that give the details for DADO depth and edge boring location drawings. all in one package. the DXFs have been created in such a way that you can cut the parts out on a CNC router with a 1/4 inch endmill and still have all the parts fit together snuggly..  anyway more information is  and will be available soon at  www.makecnc.com we will also be selling simple edge boring jigs for this and similar projects in the near future

thanks

Paul Campbell
makeCNC.com
qyy outland864 years ago
 can u reply me 
how can i get the dxf file.
iam searching in makecnc.com,,but its hardly to find the link related to the site where the dfx file.
huhu

its states that it is for sale,,iam willing to buy it

mail me at monskywalker_qd@yahoo.com
god bless u,tq
Thanks a TIN for the info Paul. Yes probably would be best for me to make my own :) all things considered i sent an A4 envelope to Brussels and it cost me over 300 bucks my money so - yes, shipping would not be worth it LOL
i started buy everthing for this last nite  i got to get the wood today waiting on truck waking up 5 am geting everthng ready :)

got something to ask you thow  not for me couse well i done gone throw this
and sorry for the spelling here

i taken the meserment's to homedepo  for the nut's and bolt's  and well had a problem  0.25  is 1/4  in   i not used to this meserment i felt like a noob walking into homedepo into i had 5 home depo worker's working on this with me lol  is there a way you can post a txt or something for the next  someone     i allready got it figered out  not hard to learn just did not know it

this my farst time even trying to build  or run a cnc   i built halfpipe's and music studio's so  this won't be a problem 

thank you for this by the way  i spent 2 munth's studioing cnc programs'
and looking for digram's and help   out of all of thim   i got every info off your page and even understand it better   your's is allso the best i seen on here
i well take a pic of it after done for you
hye dragonart777.
im from malaysia.

can i have a gcode and all schematic and electrical diagram from u?
thanks

monskywalker_qd@yahoo.com
tq
kokotipi4 years ago
hi there i m planing on building one myself but I m Mac user, does anyone know if i can find the right program to use on Mac?
I could get a cheap PC but I quite like keeping the control for everything from one computer.

Thank you very much!


There should be a few windows emulators around for the Mac. Just be mindful that some emulators can run quite slow on older systems.
tcase4 years ago
would this machine be able to do wood carving like at this site for doors?
http://mycarveddoor.com/
I'm thinking there would have to be an up and down motion also...
This what I call an instructable. Very well done
waynerod4 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
 Hey,
Can anyone tell me if I can use another bearing instead of the Shaft Support bearing (1/4" ID 7/8" OD)?
 Is anyone willing to sell this part to me? (Of Course you would also need to ship it to my address in Australia)

I would be very thankful if someone in the US (or anywhere else) could do this
jgz4 years ago

Warning.
The stepper controllers usually have a serial interface.  I have used Mach 3 on another router project.  Forget Vista.  Must use Windows XP.  Windows7 might work.  I don't know.  Newer laptops don't have a serial interface.  USB to serial converters won't work.  They don't produce enough power to drive the controller board.
 

arduinoe5 years ago
wow...
what do you think of by DIY CNCsite, be honest. thanks yall.
The design and layout isn't that great, I guess its more of a blog, but the information is very well written and awesome really informative stuff, the links and all are great too.
thank you!
jperi4 years ago
Hi you have 3D drawing posted by another member on step one .

have anyone made this in autocad so i can take it to shop and make parts on another cnc.My friend have one and it will be mucg more simple to do it.Thanks
HY what I mean is a 3D drawing dwg or dxf file so I can take all the measurement easily
dbasner4 years ago
Hey  I plan on building one of these soon, I have read a lot of tutorials and think that this is by far the easiest setup and explanation.  Because the working area is smaller than the size of the board needed to make the structure, you could turn that one file into several smaller files, then give kits to people.  I am not very handy with CAD (don't have the software yet), but somebody else could do it probably.  If somebody has done this or plans on doing so it would be great if you could post a link to the file(s).\

Thanks,
Daniel
clout0264 years ago
has anyone tried extending the x-axis as well?  would this be a difficult change?
johannesgj4 years ago
in one page its the x-axis thats 14" and in the other its the y-axis. however i want to make it 10" is that possible?
if yes how would i do?
as i see it i can just shorten the rod, piece of would for the z axis to hang on and the ground plate.
is this doable and do i need to make changes to the original pdf's. or can i manually shorten the design by hand?

if changes is needed in the pdf can someone help me making the pdf's?
kind regards 
johannes gårdsted jørgensen
denmark
btw great instructable ;-)
zmb4 years ago
What software did you use with the package from HobbyCNC to run the controller and create GCode from a CAD file?
the merog4 years ago
Can anybody help by answering this...

How to control the z-axis, if laser cutter is used (ON/OFF)?

Awaiting replies...//MEROG
Just use a relay (SSR might be a good idea). Also, you can probably leave off the z-axis transport, depending on the power your laser puts out and the varying height of the part you'll be working on.
if I can get a 3D drawing for all the machine .
I  think that's will help so much person interested to do this project
lemone30004 years ago
wat software do u use for the cnc machine

jperi4 years ago
Hi guys can anybody tell me how to  print this so its bordless that I can glue it one for one widouth cutting paper
from where can I buy the controller. and can I have the electric diagram
gadgit4 years ago
Love to build this cnc but I can't access imperial size mdf in australia. Would it be possible to scale the plans down slightly so that metric size sheets can be used? The closest thickness we have is 12mm mdf which is a 94.5% scale reduction on 1/2 inch  which will also scale the 3/4 inch pieces nicely to 18mm (also commonly available).

Also the paper dimensions are showing in acrobat is 8x10?
I live in Europe mainland. Our MDF and plywoods are rated in millimeters. But only for 'convenience'. If I measure the MDF, the 12 mm is 12,7 mm = 1/2". the 18 mm is 19 mm = 3/4". All sizes are in inches and feet. Full sheets are 122 cm x 244 cm. Not a logical ISO value. Concrete plywood is 125 x 250 cm. Now, THAT is an ISO size!

What it boils down to: 122 cm = 4 feet. 244 cm is 8 feet. MDF is always delivered in imperial units....
are you saying you cannot get 1/2 inch thick MDF in Austrailia?  Is this some kind of import restriction?  I'll be more than happy to set us up an MDF import business because I can get you all of that you want straight from a local manufacturer near me.
thank you for offering this site .This is really amazing .
please can I have the all dimensions for the base .
slamsworld4 years ago
I have completed this project after lots of research behind it  - gave me wood the first time it run - this is such a fantastic tutorial the author deserves a Nobel Prize for what ever this qualifies for
davidbue4 years ago
 Hi all. Building a CNC router quickly becomes a big project. More a hobby that just a project you finish up.

I have built my own CNC mill capable of milling in softer metal alloys a few years ago. Using is and keeping it running takes up a lot of time but is also great fun. 

I've made everything but the stepper motors and Win32 software myself. Hardware platform, electronics, PCB and micro-controller firmware. You can check out the build at my website:  www.volunteerlabrat.com/cnc.html

Should you choose to make your own CNC mill then go for it. It's so much fun!

Cheers! David
finished_cnc.jpgcnc_controller.jpg

i got evething today but the motor and motherboard   
i spent from 7 am  to just know  12:13 am   lineing up the sheet's of paper
and cuting the wood out  

for thow's that have not started  get the layout printed at staple's ask for a 48"x48"  well take a week to get it they well hafe to ship it  well cost you 23$
don't get it as a blueprint  it will have line's in it that well mess you up on your cut's    

if not  have fun it well take you a good bit and a fest in the wall

2ed  don't  do what i did  i used a jegsaw  couse my roter router wen't up
i new i would not have a good cut from the start  but i got a really good cut for it being a jegsaw  bad timeing for my roter router grrrr

as for that   i got everthing cut  ill put it togather tomorew  wonce i get my motor's and all i thank ill just have my cnc cut me new board's thin replace it

thank's again  out of every cnc i seen   your's or the best  and very easy to understand   i feel like im building a $5.000 cnc  here  i thot it was going to be small but hmmm biger thin i thot   i did exstend the bass thow
couse after im done im going to exstend everthing 

p.s  i am haveing fun with this project  and it's not something that well take you one day  so im really likeing this  

may you please make it so their is just a track and a turning nob with a gear or something SIMPLE!!!!!!
tech33124 years ago
Nice instructables on the CNC, i would like to double the size of this CNC machine. Which section of drawing do it have to expand so it can accomodate the design. I know that the Nema sockets and the screws cannot be doubled so i cannot tell the print 200% of it's actual size. I have autocad 2010 so i can edit the drawings. But do you know an easier way of doubling this size?
robotron9974 years ago
hi i am not able to understand how the motor is connected with the belt or the rail in the y axis and x axis can you explain it briefly
 
2145954 years ago
hello i am interested in your plans but i have 3/4" MDF can i still make it or are there many changes that have to be made

if you can email me at nicholasfischer@rogers.com i would really apprecoate it
You won't be able to use 3/4" MDF without making some serious changes to the design.  Home Depot has 8'x4'x0.5" MDF for ~$22, which is enough to make two CNC machines.  I'd recommend buying the correct thickness of MDF.
bullschmidt4 years ago
Very interesting.. I was curious if you thought this would have the precision to be used as an additive printer as well, aka a repstrap/reprap.  The large work area & higher speed seems very attractive (vs some lead screw CNCs). 
zoltzerino4 years ago
 Right, I am completely new to this. Well not completely but.....

Once this is made, what are the practical purposes?

Can It make a copy of itself?

How do I tell it what to do?

Is that a normal drill or something specific?
piant4 years ago
 how can I buy and allready made system like this one.
outland864 years ago
Electronics for the router

The Best way to Run this Machine  is to use a free version of MACH 3 software up to 500 lines of gcode. available form Artsofts website of you can buy it at  www.makecnc.com
use it with a driver board that uses step and direction signals
these are available for  under $200 also at the URL above if you like.
you will need somthing like a 24 volt 6.5 amp power supply to run the driver board available on ebay just search under 24 volt CNC power supply. about $30 bucks
also paralell cable ,also available on ebay just search for CNC cable about $4
4 wire securty wire for hook up from home depot.

you can use small nema 23 steppers available plenty of places and  at www.makecnc.com

if you get the whole package from makecnc.com you get a configuration file to set the whole thing up turn key so you dont have to worry abouit trying to figure out the number of turns a screw will move the dremel and the belts etc etc. and port and pin setups

Just thought i would let you all know somthing about the electronics side of this project as somone asked about ports and pins







this cnc runs off what ports best
waynerod4 years ago
Do you have a PDF file for A4 sized printing? Please.... This is instead of CNC-05-MDF-CutPattern(Rev3).pdf

Please... this would help me heaps as I don't have access to Letter Page Sizes (incase you don't know the size you have given for is for "Letter")


By the way, it will make a difference if I use A4 and Letter right? Coz this is designed for Letter and if I use A4 it won't be right.....
gdykes5 years ago
All finished! Machine works great! Constructed from 7 layer 1/2" plywood. Total cost under 500.00 and 2 weeks of construction in my spare time. I have photos if you are interested. Thank you
dcorbett gdykes4 years ago
Do you have drawings, pictures, etc?
I am researching the CNC market, and cannot decide whether to start small, or start with the one I want...
What software, controllers, etc did you use?
Thanks,
Doug
skibum2b@yahoo.com
xx123j4 years ago
+1 on that 3M spray adhesive.

Also what would it take to get this to mill nonferrous metals?
AllenKll5 years ago
For sticking down the paper, you could use rubber cement. I used to use it all the time for temporary gluing of paper patterns. It works quite well, and peels off with no residue. I've used it mostly on sheet metal, so the MDF may react differently. But it may be an option.
Regular ol' 3M "77" spray adhesive also works well. Lay down a non-overlapping layer of wide masking tape/painter's tape over your work piece, then spray the backside of your pattern with 77, then stick it to the tape layer. After cutting is completed, the tape makes it easy to remove the pattern.
Trust me..  wulfhardt is right on.  
I layed down the masking tape, then sprayed the 77 on both the tape and back of the paper..  it dried in a few minutes and worked very well..  stayed on well for the cut process, and 
I had to go back and make some different motor spacers (to fit my motors) and just glued it to the mdf..  and wow I'm really glad I did that.
cerberoos4 years ago
 what is the tolerance of this machine? Can it drills only foam or have a good precision also for wood?

Would you sell a complete unit? If yes how much including delivery to Australia SYDNEY

Thanks in advance
JC

shipping a complete kit to sydney costs about $800 usd not economical i have checked
but you will soon be able to get the FAB files( Gcode and instructions)
from my website www.makecnc.com
to be able to have one cut out for you no matter where in the world you are
about two weeks and they will be available
agent4 years ago
Sweet,  I want to build this so I can quit using my school's Epilog. I've been laser engraving everything! If I can make this I could finally etch my own PCBs.

But first: I'll make the acrylic version on my school's Epilog :P
blackgear074 years ago
Hello, i´m very overextended to find the right parts (screws, nuts and other), because im from germany and i don´t know the right dimension in metric!
please, could you help me and tell me the metric measure ?
You could use a converter, you won't need the mesurements to much in this project, as you work from a template. I normally use metric measure but imperial shouldn't be so hard ( 12 inches = 1ft).

Oscar
what is the difference between Nut 8mm and Nut #8?
for that is no converter!

#8 means number eight Nuts, I would suggest you get them from where he gets them or some where equivlient

what at the cross nuts for? can i use something instead
The cross nuts are used to join MDF panels at 90 degree angles.  You could probably use T-Bolt construction instead, but I think that would make the assembly more complicated.  Oomlout has an instructable about it here:

http://www.instructables.com/id/How_to_Make_Anything_Using_Acrylic_and_Machine_Sc/
something else I mean sorry
i belive you made a typo , the holding torq should be 100 oz*in instead of 100 oz/in
dsmskyline5 years ago
With Stuart's permission I can supply a single page 48"x48" sticky back sheet to apply to the MDF or what ever other substrate you are using to make the pieces. Makes it much easier than trying to line up tiled sheets. Thomas
I received Stuarts permission. I have compiled the assembly and hardware files into one "booklet" that can be supplied with the cut files as well. Will have a package with all 3 cut files on low tack adhesive vinyl and a 24 page booklet. Cost will depend on how many people are interested. Just the cut files are going to cost ME about $20 each to print, the books are somewhere around $10-15 each depending on the papaer. That is with just doing 1 at a time. If interested, pm me or reply on here with your zip or postal code and I will get you a price with shipping. Thomas
Hi, I am extremely interested in your offer, I live in Ontario Canada and my postal code is L7G 5L1

Happy New Year...

J.Lewis
Thomas my UK Post Code is BH21 3TL here in Dorset England. What kind of payment do you accept?
Are you able to send this to an address in England and what is your price?
MrMystery964 years ago
I built one of these from some scrap steel laying around my shop a few years before this' ible came out. The two designs are almost exactly the same.
timweaver174 years ago
when will the precut mdf be coming out? also, how much will it be costing?
Hmm. I think Ponoko would be an interesting way to get this cut out, at least. When I saw this, my first thought was that you could put a laser on here, and  have a laser cutter. There are many instructables on this, and it wouldn't be hard to attach. I may have to try this... it 's certainly cheaper than Ponoko in the long run!
vinubox4 years ago
Instructable - a university, for the people, by the people... don't know how much thankful I'm... 
outland864 years ago

Hello everyone good to see this great Project is still going strong i finally have a website www.makecnc.com  setup for the Kits i have left .only 6 out of the twenty i made of the full hardware kits and i will not be making anymore full kits. after they have gone.
 
i will be making just wood parts kits without the edge boring done on them  for people in the USA and i will be selling a small jig that makes the edge boring part a breeze  those will be on the website as well .

i will also be releasing my DXF files as a FAB on Fabscity.com so that you can have a local CNC fabber cut the parts for you.  i completely redrew the original DXF files and modified them extensivally to allow cutting out of the parts on a cnc router using a 1/4 inch router bit and still being able to clip all the parts together and keeping most of the original look of Stuarts cool project.
I have a couple of videos on the website and youtube about the kit as well .
 for all you people out in Metric land i will be doing a metric version of the DXFs as well all will be available just after Xmas.

Just so you all understand what i mean by being able to cut the DXF files out on a CNC router if you try to cut a square corner on the inside of an angle using a CNC router you will be left with the arc of the router tool as round bits can't cut square inside corners this is one of the first things you will discover in your travels into CNC. to get around this a method of creating what are called dogbone fillets on the inside corners is done to  compensate for the Router bits circumferance. and therefore allow you to create parts that will clip together tightly. very cool and worked perfectly with this design.

MERRY XMAS everyone!  who believes what i do, and happy holidays to the rest of you :)

make CNC not War !

rhymed4 years ago
I've tried this a few different ways and here's what I came up with.

About the gluing -
Attempt 1) Glued down with Duro All-purpose spray adhesive. It stuck very well, but was still able to be peeled off if you were very careful. Even after a week. I had sprayed only the board. Turned out the strength wasn't good enough because my saw pulled it up off the board which obstructed my view of the cut lines.
Attempt 2) Tried again with hard-core spray adhesive (3M 90-something) and sprayed both paper and board. This is a permanent bond, and it shows. The paper is part of the board now. It went on more bumpy than attempt 1, even after pressing it out (I used a roll of packing tape as a rolling pin to press it all out). However, when it dried, it was totally flat and tight. It might have helped that I brought it in from my garage to let it dry. It's not a damp garage, but the air is definitely more humid than inside my house.

The real problem I had with both glue attempts was just getting the pattern laid flat and in the proper location. I had the 1-page version printed (in two pieces) at the local FedEx/Kinko's, and I was laying it down on a 4'x4" piece of MDF. It was too hard to get the pattern lined up for gluing because I wasn't able to be precise enough. This was a lot easier the second time because I used an 8' x 4' piece of MDF (it was only $15). Then I cut out large chunks of the pattern in easy to handle sizes. I was able to spray the whole board and lay the, now manageable, pattern pieces wherever they fit easily. Once the glue had dried  roughly I cut away the unused MDF and was left with easily manageable MDF planks. That made it a lot easier to do the actual detail cutting of the machine pieces.
is this machine as designed capable of cutting cast aluminum. if not what alterations would be required, increasing the scale, materials, or cutting tool? how is the tolerance? thanks.
I too am starting to collect/build this machine and want to use it for cutting delrin plastic and very small aluminium pieces (3D). Can someone recommend any required modifications such as stepping motors and tool other than a dremel if required?

Thank you for all the help and to the creator, very nice work!
i think you could replace the dremel with new holders and maybe a high power air or cord drill and i dont know but maybe getting stronger steppers
as long as you have a sharp enough bit, you go slow enough, and you do multiple passes, it should be able to cut aluminum. I don't think you would be able to use an endmill to face it, but I do think you could make 2d cutouts with a small pointed bit.
greenie78884 years ago
Hi, i caNT FIND the part number for the skate bearings from vxb.com,  which one is it, a direct link would be great.
Hi gdykes, my english is bad. I hope that you understand spanish. quisiera hacer un cnc, espero que me puedas pasar fotos a mi correo o decirme a donde verlas. thanks.
Jerry5315 years ago
What is the computer program that you use ?
yiu855 years ago
is there a way to turn the dremel tool on//off using the software?
abomb550765 years ago

Once youve finished it you can go onto something like this http://www.homegrowncnc.com/diycnc/pad-printing-with-cnc/

bullmoose115 years ago
MDF is very porous and dusty. I'm going to try painting the MDF sheet with "Killz Complete" primer sealer first before gluing the pattern down. The primer drys hard and glossy so the spray glue will stick..  I can have a full 48x 48 pattern printed on a large format plotter at Staples for $4 a sheet. I'm copying the PDF to a USB memory stick to take in. Staples said they could print from that. Then I will cut the 4x8 pattern sheet into smaller more manageable pieces and cut them out on my ShopSmith Scroll saw. It should work well I hope....
redfire055 years ago
in the picture above i see the cnc contoller chip did you solder it all ,was it hard and what is the thing the contoller chip is sitting on
AlexPCS5 years ago
Hi. I have a little doubt about the project .. on the y-axis and the z's all okay .. the problem is. what makes the X-axis how is the system if can someone help me may email is bammbammjj@hotmail.com
derekhunter5 years ago
Hey Great instructable!! if i were to build this item am i amble to just add longer metal bar to give the base a longer length?
Anyone have some advice where you can input the resolution for each axis in Mach3? Just like the values in step 2. That would be awesome! Thanks!
Hey all, I'm about to embark on this project and thought I'd share a tidbit with you. There's a large format print shop in my city that can actually print the plans right onto the MDF and the result is nice and sharp (thanks to the smooth, hard surface of the MDF). They're printing it for me for just over $5 a square foot (just under $100 total). Thought I'd pass this along as there may be similar shops in your areas that can do the same. KD
oomlout (author)  AnimattersInc6 years ago
Hey: Thanks for the tip it sounds like a great one and would certainly help greatly in precision. Would love to hear how your build is going. Regards Stuart. P.S. I am working on coming up with a way to produce the cut MDF pieces for purchase, but haven't quite cracked an ability to provide the volumes I'd like to produce (small) for a price point which I feel would provide good value (again small).
Hey Stuart, not sure if you're still keeping an eye on these or not but I thought I'd let you know that the build, which got shelved for one reason or another is officially underway. I start my cuts tomorrow and will hit the Home Depot's nuts & bolts aisle for all the other goodies. I've started building water wheels with bells & whistles (so to speak) and it requires a pile of little gears and cogs. 30 minutes on my scroll saw and it occurred to me that this might be a great time to build this CNC machine. Thanks once again for being such a great resource. This machine should allow me to focus on the creative side of things as opposed to logging hours on a scroll saw.
Thought I'd post a week one update. I've got all the cuts made, holes drilled and routered bits routered. This is working every other evening for about 4 hours? Maybe longer on Saturday last weekend. Had trouble finding the cross nuts in the quantity required at the local DIY centre but after visiting a few of them found enough. Ikea has tons of them and only 10¢ each but they are fine metric thread so you'd have to shrink the .25" holes a touch. Otherwise they'd work just fine and way cheaper (69¢ at the DIY). Assembly should begin this weekend!
Just another update for you all. THings are coming together but I've found out that you really should have the stepper motors and bearings on hand before you begin assembly because it's no time at all before you need them. I'm now online placing that order right now. One thing that would have helped me is to really visualize and understand the shapes of the pieces and how they fit together. I didn't realize that the little channels and stuff were to accept a joint with another 1/2" section of MDF. That said, some of the cutouts are not as smooth as I would have made them and/or I stayed on the wrong side of the line when cutting. The "persuader" helps in this matter.
evox5 years ago
I was wondering if anyone could help me out. i have a friend that is a machinist and she was wondering if anyone had the code to cut the pieces out or has anyone made the measurements. this would save me a huge amount of time. so if someone could help me out i would really appreciate it. thanks
nick23345 years ago
I have a question about the motor couplers. From what I can gather, they are just bored through 1/4" holes with two set screws to secure the shafts. On the X and Y axis there is a smooth 1/4" rod which will slide into the couple nicely. For the Z axis though, it is a threaded rod going into the couple. Is the OD of the threaded rod exactly 1/4" and does it slide in easily and concentric to the motor shaft?
vanmik5 years ago
super netto pdf
Sanger355 years ago
Hi; Just starting on my CNC and look forward to looking over your site. I also purchased the spacers for the roller blade bearings, then cut each one in half to make two pieces. The bearings will ride on the spacers and a 1/4" bolt attaches them to stock.
I don't really want to buy a controller, so is it practical to make one? If so, where can I find out how?
darkcover5 years ago
This may be worth a look if you are interested in CNC technology. Visit www.cnceyeteam.com or www.youtube.com/darkcover09 for more information about the upcoming release of Sinumerik, the latest in CNC technology.
cre8ev5 years ago
could someone explain the difference between the linux drive and the "other drive"? Also i have a contact for neumatic routers and or lasers. Can i fit either one of those on any of these cnc machines?
gdykes cre8ev5 years ago
I redesigned the two spindle holders and have one for a trim router, dremel, and a pin plotter. It is an easy modification.
DSC_2733.JPG
tbenefi335 years ago
Ok I got the pattern all printed out and I'm ready to lay it out on the wood but I have a question about the over lay do you cut off the excess over lay then line it up or you just leave the overlay and draw a line connecting the other one ?
Mansheep225 years ago
This is the page where the software and instructions are said to be... i don't see it =/ is it on another page?
I gather this set has been updated, sources of control boards, motors and software are now on step 4. Mike
szefski5 years ago
I have found a Canadian supplier of bearings, pulleys, and belts. The company is called Stock Drive Products and the website is http://www.sdp-si.com.
Prices are steeper than Macmaster-Carr - I paid $120 for 6 bearings, 3 pulleys and 12 feet of timing belt and the order arrived 3 days later.
szefski5 years ago
Macmaster-Carr will not ship to me because I am Canadian :P. Is there anywhere I can order a pulley, pulley belt and imperial bearings? I have located everything else. If you ( or someone else!) could post a link that would be awesome.
Mansheep225 years ago
Heya, I am laying the pattern down on the MDF as I speak (or am trying to) and I am having difficulty lining them up. In the picture above I notice reference lines, how did he get those on there? Do i need adobe writer to add those lines, or am I overcomplicating it?
vaq5 years ago
Hi I'm in the uk. iv converted all the bolts and nuts using a conversion chart, so basically 0.25"x2" bolts would be M6x50mm can I do this or am I gonna miss the 3mm difference later on? O and does it matter if the nuts are fully threaded or partial-thread coz I'm having a bad time finding partial-thread bolts? any answers welcome, lol i've just started cutting i'll let you know how i get on. P.s great instructions Vaq
JohnnyVegas vaq5 years ago
I just finished building and you should definitely get the partial threaded bolts on the (6) 8mm x 60mm. Theses are used as pulleys for the belt drive. The others can be fully threaded. They make no difference. Also for anyone having trouble grabbing 8mmx60mm bolts locally I used some 8mmx70mm and they work fine. Non threaded off course.
vaq5 years ago
O i forgot to mention that rumour has it that MDF can cause cancer it has somthing to do with the epoxy used to bond it so mask up.
morganrehm5 years ago
To anybody attempting this, I strongly recommend you use a plotter to print out the whole 48x48 file. I just finished cutting these pieces using single 8.5x11 pages and it was a big pain. Lining them up is very difficult, also pieces of paper tend to peel off during cutting - then again I was using a spray-on adhesive. Maybe other glues would work better.
cool 'ible, but still too expensive for me guess they dont come cheaper than this though... gonna actually needa earn some money >.<
Idosci7 years ago
Do you have the cut pattern as a one page, full size pdf?
oomlout (author)  Idosci7 years ago
I have added the pattern as a single 48"x48" page to step four (there is now a choice as to which version you would like to download) Stuart
stuart i wanted the board size to be 48" x 48" can u help...
Idosci Idosci7 years ago
Thanks. This is an awesome project.
hi stuart , pls tell me were should i foud the elctronic part of this cnc rourter and what would be thev cost , as well will those parts run with windows product
tom.ettore5 years ago
Stuart, Built according to your parts list but resolution is 1/125" based on pulley and belt teeth per inch. Is this correct with this setup? I measured approximately 12.5 teeth per inch on belt which results in 125 steps per inch. Do I need to change the drive system for better resolution?
the amount of teeth on a belt shouldn't matter, treat it as smooth, and the pulleys as round, unless you only have one belt tooth contacting the pulley. even then there's marginal contact conditions that make number of teeth on the belt irrelevant.
I appreciate your response. If you build the machine with the parts ordered you will see you have to scale for both the x and y axis to 125 steps per inch. I have been running the machine for several months. The z axis resolution is 1/4000" and the x and y axis is .008" resolution or 1/125. Keep in mind the steppers are 200 steps per revolution which on the pulley size and number of teeth on the pulley(20) gives you this resolution
usb.to.go5 years ago
If I do not want to do a cnc version just a milling machine what parts can I miss out? Thanks Jack ps. awesome instructable
skaar usb.to.go5 years ago
controller software with manual position entry would do it.
krams9765 years ago
First of all great job and I love the video of you putting it all together. would you be willing to share your G-code for Mach3 as I cannot get your files to work with rhino, artcam,turbocad. all your circles render incomplete.I currently have access to a cnc running G-code on Mach 3. Or any assistance would be greatly appreciated. p.s. what did you use to make .Tap (G-code) for Mach 3 ??? Thank You Mark
tbenefi335 years ago
How can I scale this up to 48 1/4" x 36 3/8" I have an aluminum table I wanna that size I wana use.
dheintz45 years ago
Can you use this for a cnc router? I see you have a dremel and am wondering if we can use a router on this or if I need to do something different.
galaxyman76 years ago
You can get 10 skate bearings for 5 bucks at http://www.vxb.com/page/bearings/PROD/608ZZ10
Times 4 is only 20 bucks + shipping. I was wondering if these would work just as well.
Just a question for u, did anyone respond to your thread about the skate bearing. I have all the parts except for the bearing. Which one did u end up going with. Thanks.
I am almost done with the machine, and the skate bearings recommended by galaxy do actually work as a replacement.
yep they work fine, I'm pretty sure they are the same ones from the instructable, just in lower quanity.
arcandor5 years ago
Sweet machine! If I'm not posting new stuff for a while, it's because I'm building one of these... dremel, extruder and possible laser tools included =)
weldermike5 years ago
hi I'm just starting to look into building this cnc , I love ur plans , but its not very clear to me on how ur belt drive works, would u happen to have any pics or video,
look farther back in the comments there is a paint picture that shows the belt routing
cawink5 years ago
In the parts list, what size is a #8 bolt? I can't seem to find a bolt named #8!
I am pretty sure that's metric sizing. There is both a #8 and a M8, which are different sizes just to keep things interesting.

Here's a page on bolt sizes and strengthens:
http://euler9.tripod.com/bolt-database/23.html
jmedinav5 years ago
looks great and pretty!
lidak45 years ago
After all , where I can get the software ?
tom.ettore5 years ago
(removed by author or community request)
Tom.Ettore..... the Y bearings are to permit the Big Bolts to rotate freely ! that's why he uses a Large bolt with a "smooth Shank" ! versus an all thread Bolt.... Don't over tighten ! or you will Rip the Bearings MDF pockets... Same goes for the X Cart Bearings... Cawink ! #8 Bolts are Metric !!! that's all ! 3/8 or 11/32 would do ! if in a Bind !!!
dciocoiu5 years ago
I figured out how to make a T.E.L.S laser and it is relatively easy to make so thats what I would recommend using on homemade stuff since it is inexpensive and if you bust it you want have to pay 600$ to buy anathor one.
Jahguleth5 years ago
Hello, I have 2 questions: 1- If i wanted to increase the CNC working area will i have to configure anything or get different parts to connect the stepper motors or can i just cut the MDF pieces a bit longer? 2- Does anyone know a website that has info on Do It Yourself stepper motors controllers? I found a website with all the schematics to make a 3-axis controller that supports high voltage/current outputs but some components are out of date and aren't available anymore and the component list hasn't been updated. Thank you.
1.Yes you can just extend all of the mdf and the rods for a longer travel. However, if you extend the x-axis by making the cart longer, it will compromise the strength of the machine. If you make the y-axis larger it will have no effect on the strength, and all you have to do is extend the base out. 2.there is an instructable on that subject also. Just look up "cnc" in the search bar and you will find one on how to solder your own controller.
I'm aware that i may need stronger motors than the recommended 100 oz/in in this project, and right now i need to start searching for the motors and that will probably be expensive. Or if it is possible to just connect 2 stepper motors in parallel to the same Axis Controller Output i'll just get 2 cheap motors and have them share the load.
About the Controller I suppose you were talking about this one:

http://www.instructables.com/id/Easy-to-build-CNC-Mill-Stepper-Motor-and-Driver-ci/

I can't believe i didn't see it earlier. I've already bought most of the components and will probably pick up the rest of them on friday.

Thanks :)
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