Step 6Gluing Down the Pattern
1.Glue the tiled pages to your sheet stock (MDF) ensuring the edges match up
2.For the aluminum tube the pattern must be glued to two sides. If the Tube is laying flat on a table and you glue the side A patterns to the top side B can be glued on either of the side faces.
Tips:
-Use lots of glue
-Have something near by to help push down each piece
-Patience
(if anyone else has tips on doing this I would love to hear them)
| « Previous Step | Download PDFView All Steps | Next Step » |




















































We have a set of pre cut wood parts avaialble for this Router with all the edge boring done and cut professionally on a KOMO CNC..absolutely precise parts.
from MDF. an inexpensive option to ensure you have an accurate machine when you are done...www.makecnc.com
some minor improvments and modifications have been made to the original design.
also for FREE....FREE....FREE
you can download free from our site an extensive and comprehensive set of plans for this machine that includes the DXF files of all parts drawn by a professional draughtman with dogbone fillets added to allow you to cut the parts uisng a CNC router..as well as a set of drawings ready to laser cut.
a parts list and indervidual part drawings including metal parts belts etc to make building this cool little machine a breeze..hindreds of hours of work went into these plans and cut files and they are your for free..no obligations.
www.makecnc.com
I layed down the masking tape, then sprayed the 77 on both the tape and back of the paper.. it dried in a few minutes and worked very well.. stayed on well for the cut process, and
I had to go back and make some different motor spacers (to fit my motors) and just glued it to the mdf.. and wow I'm really glad I did that.
About the gluing -
Attempt 1) Glued down with Duro All-purpose spray adhesive. It stuck very well, but was still able to be peeled off if you were very careful. Even after a week. I had sprayed only the board. Turned out the strength wasn't good enough because my saw pulled it up off the board which obstructed my view of the cut lines.
Attempt 2) Tried again with hard-core spray adhesive (3M 90-something) and sprayed both paper and board. This is a permanent bond, and it shows. The paper is part of the board now. It went on more bumpy than attempt 1, even after pressing it out (I used a roll of packing tape as a rolling pin to press it all out). However, when it dried, it was totally flat and tight. It might have helped that I brought it in from my garage to let it dry. It's not a damp garage, but the air is definitely more humid than inside my house.
The real problem I had with both glue attempts was just getting the pattern laid flat and in the proper location. I had the 1-page version printed (in two pieces) at the local FedEx/Kinko's, and I was laying it down on a 4'x4" piece of MDF. It was too hard to get the pattern lined up for gluing because I wasn't able to be precise enough. This was a lot easier the second time because I used an 8' x 4' piece of MDF (it was only $15). Then I cut out large chunks of the pattern in easy to handle sizes. I was able to spray the whole board and lay the, now manageable, pattern pieces wherever they fit easily. Once the glue had dried roughly I cut away the unused MDF and was left with easily manageable MDF planks. That made it a lot easier to do the actual detail cutting of the machine pieces.