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This is n instructable on how to make a waterblock. It can be used for whatever you want. I'm using mine for a TEC which I have various projects I will cool with it. You could also use it for cooling your processor.

Step 1: Materials and Tools

Materials:
JB Weld
Aluminum bar
or
Copper and solder, aswell as a blowtorch.
Hose barbs- if you use copper you can use brass or plastic barbs
                  - if you use aluminum you can use aluminum or plastic hose barbs.
                                      -plastic ones can be cheaply found in the plumbing and garden section. Instead of buying the white nylon ones you can use the cheap plastic abs ones. Mine are toro. I only used a nylon one because I had it on hand.
You can't use aluminum in the same system as copper or any less reactive metal because the aluminum will corrod due to the electrical potenetial between the elements.
Tools:
Drill
Drill Bits
Center punch
Hammer
Vise


Powdercoat System
 Glow ind the dark powder coat paint
 I used this in addition to my blue:
http://www.caswellplating.com/powder/additives.html
Metal Cutting Bandsaw
Belt Sander

Step 2: Mark Out Your Pattern

Make a pattern for you to follow for drilling. Be careful with your spacing, making sure they are far enogh from eachother so that when you are drilling you don't slip from one hole to the other.

If you printed it out glue it on to the metal with rubber cement.

Use your center punch to punch a spot in the center of each hole so that you know where to drill.

You can use a nail as a centerpunch.

Step 3: Drill Out the Holes

Use your drill to drill out holes, following the pattern.

I used a lathe for some parts and a drill for others.

If you have a drill press you can use that.

Step 4: Prepare for Bonding the Base to the Top

Sand the top surface of the base to remove any burrs that might interfere with bonding.

If you use a belt sander I recommend you use a lubricant to sand. The aluminum can clog the sandpaper without a lubricant.
I used WD40.

Cut out a piece of metal for the top. Sand it before bonding.

Step 5: Attaching the Lid to the Base



If you use JB Weld, mix it on a seperate platter and put a small bit around the circumference of the block, press it on and clamp it.

If soldering clean and sand the surface. Flux it. And heat up and solder.
If you are using copper ou can use brass hosebarbs and solder them in.

Afterwards drill holes in the lid for the hose barbs to go into.

Step 6:

Sand down the edges and all sides.

Lap the base with increasingly fine sandpaper.  I didn't do this step. I stayed with course sandpaper and just lubricated it which made it cut much smoother.

Step 7: Paint

Degrease the entire block. Place the block on a piece of paper. Put a wire into the block and attach it into the ground for the powdercoat line. Spray it and place it in the oven. Follow the settings for your powdercoat.

For mine its was 20 minutes at 400 degrees farhenheit.

Step 8: Attach Hose Barbs

Cut the hosebarbs down to size.
Jb weld the hosebarbs into the body.

If you have extra jbweld on the barrbs, use wet q-tips to wipe the extra jbweld off.

For higher temperature applications you could use brass fittings. Cheap ones here:&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp; <a href="https://sites.google.com/site/arctareproducts/home/industrial-parts" rel="nofollow">https://sites.google.com/site/arctareproducts/home/industrial-parts</a>
What I did on my water block is instead of using JB weld to seal the top to the bottom I used gasket sealer so I can get it back apart again if I need to, plus I did take the top off the bottom at one point and it was incredibly hard to get them apart so you wouldn't have to worry about leaks as long as the sealing surfaces are perfectly flat. Also when I sanded I used water to cool the metal so I could hold it and the water acts as a lubricant so it doesn't gum up the belt.<br>That's just my 2 cents on the subject.
JB weld provides mechnical adhesion. It can also be sanded. I powdercoated which I couldn't do over a soft adhesive. I used oil to cool when sanding.<br><br>I couldn't use water because my belt sander is not meant to be immersed. I used water to cool the block between parts of sanding. <br><br>I used the sock to protect my fingers incase I hit the sanding belt. Which I did several times before and with the sock. It worked.
Oh ya that makes sense plus gasket sealer most likely wouldn't handle 400 degrees too well.<br><br>I also used gloves too because even with water to cool the part it still got hot and with thin pieces like the top half of the block it was easy to touch the moving belt. <br><br>Also have you used yours on anything yet, and How did it perform?
gasket sealer would probably be ok. like the one used in engines.<br><br>I totaly agree about gloves. I usualy use my welding gloves, but they are a little bulky and they were rubbing against the sandpaper.
right now its just a dsuper duper drink cooler. I have two 226w tecs on a large beenchtop powersupply.
I haven't tested it yet, I will post once I get my TEC and test it.
Sounds sweet water cooling your TEC is the way to go. what are you using the TEC on?
Smart idea using an old sock to protect your fingers!
I tried using a glove, but I couldn't get a good grip through it.

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