In this Instructable, I will show you how to mask off a particular area prior to sandblasting to protect it, in this case I will be masking off the emblem on a bike frame.  This type of masking is ideal for aggressive sandblasting at a close range for long periods of time. 

Step 1: Cover Area with Vinyl

Cover the area you would like to protect from sandblasting with vinyl (with adhesive on one side).  Use enough vinyl that it covers more than the area you wish to mask.  
<p>Thank you to all, for all of your input, tips, suggestions, I sincerely appreciate your helpful comments.</p><p>Jack G</p>
When retexturing areas of injection mold after repairs, welding etc. I have used hotmelt glue with great success,good to cover edges of detail that must remain crisp and heavy enough to deflect aggressive grits and wears well, but above caveats about gun position apply and are critical to success. Build it up layer by layer as heavy as you need close to edges , then trim as needed to sharpen edges. just another way when other methodsnot as available or feasible.
<p>It's a small internet! I work in blow molding. However, we just use duct tape to mask the molds and use a razor blade to trim to the pinch offs.</p>
<a href="http://thetapeworks.com/index.shtml" rel="nofollow">http://thetapeworks.com/index.shtml</a>Interesting sand blasting article. Gaffers Tape is a great heavy duty tape made of 100% cotton backing and would be great for this project. Here's a link to a great gaffers tape source:<br> <a href="http://thetapeworks.com/index.shtml" rel="nofollow">http://thetapeworks.com/index.shtml</a><br>
I've thought of using the same masking material that they use when they sandblast gravestones for &quot;etching&quot; in the names.
blanchae <br>What masking material would that be? and were can I find it? Please.
It is called sandmask - http://www.hartcoservice.com/sandmask <br>
Thank you I'll try it out on my next project
where is the result, we'd all like to see it......you know, proof it worked and such
The final picture shows the result... a well blasted surface and the masking material is still intact. Whether he shows the project itself painted/finished is a moot point as this is not about painting, bicycles, etc <br> <br>The Instructable is indeed helpful to those of us who sandblast. I didn't know that vinyl/electrical tape was capable of absorbing/deflecting the blast media. I'll definitely be using that combo in the future. <br> <br>Question: Would a couple layers of electrical tape work (without the vinyl layer)? Likewise, would a few layers of vinyl work?
I sandblast a lot for the natural gas industry and we use some pretty serious coal slag abrasive. When it comes to having to mask off fine threads, there's nothing better than electrical tape. The abrasive WILL push the glue into crevices and crannies, but this is easily removed with some solvent (brake cleaner works for EVERYTHING).
I think I will try liquid electrical tape. Might work, might not.
Won't work, that stuff has ZERO durability for any purpose but wiring insulation, and that's only because nothing is really exerting force on it.
I first tried several layers of vinyl but the edges peeled up and I also blasted through all the layers. Next I tried several layers of electrical tape which held up great but the adhesive embedded itself into the metal which was difficult to remove. The combo of vinyl under electrical tape has worked the best for me so far.
Listen up - cause I am a genius.<br> <br> 1. Up to a point &quot;rubber&quot; types of media absorbs and deflects most of the abrasives energy - it flexes rather than cuts - but it will wear through eventually.<br> <br> 2. The direction of the gun has to be aiming the spray in a way that&nbsp; is either near parrallel to the edge of the masking media or from the center of the masking media, to the metal around it.<br> <br> - The maskign lifting is much like laying a sheet of paper on a flat surface and blowing at it - the paper will lift.<br> <br> But if you blow at the paper, from the center to the edge, it stays stuck to the surface.<br> <br> As much as the tapes have adhesive, and the bond may be quite good, with enough air pressure and hits by the abrasive, done close enough, for long enough, the abrasive blasting can lift the masking.<br> <br> The same masking process is used in the sand blasting of windows - and if you do enough of the same pieces, you could make up a &quot;permanent mask&quot; out of silicon adhesive or rubber sheet - with it laid, clipped, / clamped / temporarily bonded into position.<br> <br> The other thing is that you can paint on masking, using either latex rubber or slightly thinned neutral cure silicon - with turpentine, or even the contact adhesive.<br> <br> As long as it's sticky and rubbery and is easy enough to get off either before or after painting without the rubber dissolving into the solvent.<br> <br> Though that tends to be more of a time and paint depth issue.<br> <br> Though with powder coating - it might just come away after baking.<br> <br> Worth experimenting with I think.<br> <br> <br> <br> <br> <br>
The final pic does not show that it worked properly... we cannot see that the edges of the emblem were UN-touched... That is a lot of pressure blowing on those surfaces... I can see the edges peeling very easily while sandblasting... Just drill the rivets and pop the emblem off! <br>
With a little imagination and making the jump from the first picture, with the emblem, to the final picture of the emblem covered in tape, with the area around it sand blasted......<br> <br> Mmmmmmmmm?<br> <br> <br> Drill the rivets and pop the emblem off?<br> <br> I am the LAST person in Australia, who actually bought the very last of the copper rivets in stock, that were from the last copper rivets ever made - of that size and length.<br> <br> <br> <br> Do you know how hard it is to get &quot;proper mushroom head rivets&quot; - in the first place, and to actually get the TEENY LITTLE&nbsp; rivets used here, and then to get the same sized rivets, from I assume a soft steel stock, with the same finish / plating and then refit them?<br> <br> Surely you jest.<br> <br> Sir = let me assure you, the masking tape is the best option.<br> <br> And the badge, it looks just like it did after the sand blasting, before the tape was affixed.<br> <br>
I restore old Raleigh ten-speed Bicycles and have done 3x so far. <br> <br>You can tap out the head badge rivet and buy new hollow pop rivets (3/32&quot; stainless) at a few places on the internet. <br> <br>http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&amp;item=120986658043 <br> <br>This Raleigh Sports has a 1977 or later head badge (as evidenced by the solid rivet, and I don't know a source for these), the 1976 and earler bikes had hollow rivets (like 3/32 above) that allow you to see into the head tube of the bike. <br> <br>This badge has already lost all its paint. A good friend of mine who restores Cinellis recommends that you cut down a fine paint brush until there are just a few hairs available, and then repaint the badge under a microscope to get it looking like new again. <br> <br>Good luck !!
Painstaking work, to be sure. But why not just drill out the head badge and reattach when you're done? Better yet, get a new (vintage) one off eBay? http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_trksid=p5197.m570.l1313&amp;_nkw=raleigh+head+badge&amp;_sacat=0&amp;_from=R40
Off topic, but it looks like this frame may have sustained a front impact at some point. Maybe it's the perspective of the photo, but that downtube looks bent. But hell, these old Raleighs are bombproof. She'll hold together:) <br>
Sign Shops can order a thin rubber mask with an adhesive and a peal away backing that they can CUT the mask for you. <br> <br>NOTE: It is used for precision masks in stainglass, &amp; glue chip, &amp; gold leaf, glass works...etc. <br> <br>I did a quick digital snap shot and emailed it to the sign shop and they sent back a very good rubber mask. (we both fugged the images a bit to MAKE-IT-FIT.) <br>The imaged mask was to be wrapped around a tube much like this bike example. <br> <br>Saved a lot of screwing around looking for the sandblast mat materials.
For those interested in using resist for sandblasting, it is possible to use contact shelf liner for gravity feed blasting, there are also different media for blasting, ranging from walnut shells, corn cob media, to Silica Carbide. Walnut shells are an interesting biodegradable option as a blast media, that is not overly aggresive. <br>Your instructable was well done and informative.
Hi, I miss the picture with the result, too. Also can someone explain me, why this article is featured? What are the requirements, that an article gets featured? Seriously.
Gaffers Tape, similar to hockey tape, is what we use at work when we blast jet engine parts. <br>
I find just about any tape works; Even blue painters tape, packing tape. etc. Dont care for duct tape, the heat from the beads/sand impacting the tape makes it real gooey. <br>.
I've used multiple layers of self adhesive shelf paper, 3 layers seemed to work fine. It comes on a roll so you can cover large or small projects easily.
Nice instructable.. Normally I would just drill out those rivets and pop the emblem off and replace it after it is finished... <br>
Very cool. I never thought that was how you did it. Great instructable :).
Oh wow, <em>that</em>'s how you do that. I am going to be repainting my vintage Peugeot soon, and I was curious how that was all going to work out. Thank's for the share.

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