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Step 4Recessed Silicone
For this process, you'll need flowable silicone. Specifically, I suggest Flowable Silicone Windshield & Glass Sealer; it's my favorite to use because it flows well and smoothes itself out as it dries. If you want a less "grippy" silicone, you can use Silicone Gasket Maker. Flowable Silicone is easy to find in the automotive section of any given department store, just be sure not to pay more than $4 for it - the same tube that I bought at Fleet Farm for $2.50 costs $7 at Kragen.
Pour the silicone into the groove that the o-ring used to be in, being careful not to get it into the bearing area or over the rest of the yo-yo. If you do slip up, don't panic; it's easy to clean up once it dries, but it's better to just be as fastidious as possible and get the job done right the first time.
To make application easier I use a syringe (the types for babies and pets are the best to work with). You won't need too much silicone in the syringe, but I always like to try to do a bunch of yo-yos as a batch to keep my waste at a minimum. Try to avoid air bubbles - once I have the silicone in the syringe, I point the nose up while compressing the air out of the tube until the silicone is the only thing left.
After filling the o-ring groove with silicone, wipe off any excess silicone using your finger (or place a business card flat on the plastic's surface and scrape the excess away). The goal is to keep the silicone flush with (or even recessed from) the yo-yo's surface.
For best results, I pour the silicone in the groove towards the outer diameter. This way, when the silicone levels out it pushes out the air and prevents trapped air bubbles from forming. After pouring, I like to use a business card to level off the silicone. Just place the card flush with the surface, then turn the yo-yo. To get a nice recess, slightly over pour the silicone... then when you use the card, it will concave the silicone nicely as the card collects excess silicone on the top.
After the silicone is added, let it set for at least 12 hours. You can then come in and remove any extra dried stuff around the yo-yo's body and in the bearing seat. Use your fingers or a pencil eraser. Be especially sure to remove any excess bits of silicone that could get worked into the bearing, because those can greatly reduce spin time and add response.
Pour the silicone into the groove that the o-ring used to be in, being careful not to get it into the bearing area or over the rest of the yo-yo. If you do slip up, don't panic; it's easy to clean up once it dries, but it's better to just be as fastidious as possible and get the job done right the first time.
To make application easier I use a syringe (the types for babies and pets are the best to work with). You won't need too much silicone in the syringe, but I always like to try to do a bunch of yo-yos as a batch to keep my waste at a minimum. Try to avoid air bubbles - once I have the silicone in the syringe, I point the nose up while compressing the air out of the tube until the silicone is the only thing left.
After filling the o-ring groove with silicone, wipe off any excess silicone using your finger (or place a business card flat on the plastic's surface and scrape the excess away). The goal is to keep the silicone flush with (or even recessed from) the yo-yo's surface.
For best results, I pour the silicone in the groove towards the outer diameter. This way, when the silicone levels out it pushes out the air and prevents trapped air bubbles from forming. After pouring, I like to use a business card to level off the silicone. Just place the card flush with the surface, then turn the yo-yo. To get a nice recess, slightly over pour the silicone... then when you use the card, it will concave the silicone nicely as the card collects excess silicone on the top.
After the silicone is added, let it set for at least 12 hours. You can then come in and remove any extra dried stuff around the yo-yo's body and in the bearing seat. Use your fingers or a pencil eraser. Be especially sure to remove any excess bits of silicone that could get worked into the bearing, because those can greatly reduce spin time and add response.
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