I apologize if I have offended people by modifying this camera I am not trying to "Destroy history" I'm just trying to have fun with it. Thanks.
Step 1: Tools and Materials, What You Will Need:
1 piece of leather about a 1/16''
1 sheet of sticky foam paper
1 sheet of tin foil
2 sheets of plain paper
2 decorative knobs of your choice ( to advance and rewind film)
1 dowel: 3/8
1 piece of hard wood 2x2'', 8''
black silk fabric
white glue (Elmer's or tacky) and old brush to apply it with
strong glue (Gorilla, Wood glue)
1 roll of film (for measuring purposes)
an awl (or something sharp and strong you can hit with a hammer[nail, screw])
a semi course round file
drill and pilot bits: 1/4, 3/8, 5/16,
1 small flat headed screwdriver
a fine ruler (goes up to 16th of an inch )
a squaring tool of some kind
a dremel and a bit to cut and sand metal
1 sharp hand saw
air compressor or something to blow away metal shavings
Step 2: Figuring Out Your Design
If you would like to explore a different design, there are a couple things to keep in mind:
making the camera totally light proof
blocking off all unwanted light
pressure plate is flush and pushing against the film to achieve a crisp picture and prevent leaking light
easy and efficient way to advance and rewind the film
otherwise go crazy
Step 3: Taking Out Unnecessary Pieces
The next piece isn't so easy, there are two brads in the center of the piece of metal that are holding it down. To remove this piece shove a thin screw driver under one side and twist it while applying pressure. Work your way around the brad until it pops off. Please be careful and Don't Shove The Screw Driver Through your Hand. After the tops of the brads have come off, you need to sand them down with sand paper or a dremel so they don't scratch the film.
The last part is to widen the spool holders to accommodate the spool we will make later. Make the opening 5/16" and 1/2" down from the edge of the camera using the dremel..(picture 7)
After both sides have been drilled, take the camera outside and blow it out with an air compressor to get the shavings out like in picture 8. Wear Safety Glasses!
Step 4: Making the Leather Piece
So I am using leather because it is stronger and more light tight than paper, and more flexible than plastic. In order to prevent little pieces of leather getting in the camera all of the time, glue(with the white glue) the paper to the sued side of the leather. (it helps if you dilute the glue a bit with water so it goes on easier).
Then Put some heavy books on top of the leather so it doesn't curl up on itself and get wrinkly.
While it is drying, take 2 pieces of paper and cut one to fit over the hole to the edge. Then cut a little piece of paper to be 7/8" tall by 1 5/16" wide. On the first sheet draw a strait line diagonally across the paper from corner to corner making an x. do the same on the little piece. after you have both x's poke a hole right where the two lines intersect (the center) on both sheets. Put them on top of each other and there you have it!. Trace around the outside of the small rectangle so its on one piece of paper. Now you have the standard negative size and it will be centered behind the lens.
Now that you have the measurements you can transfer it to the leather. Once you are confident with your measurements then you may cut it out. Use the X- acto knife and try to make the corners and lines as crisp and clear as possible.
For added pressure and better light proofing, stick a pice of the foam paper over the hole then cut out the excess to fit the hole. It only needs to be around a 1/2". Then its done!!
Step 5: Making the Film Holder
First tape on the leather piece you just made for reference. Role out a long strip of Sculpey about 4 1/8" long and 2 3/4" wide and 1/2" thick. Then lay saran wrap into the hole so the clay doesn't stick to the metal and loose its shape when you pull it out. Once the saran wrap is in there, then lay the sculpy on top of it and fold the saran wrap back over the sculpy and push down using the film cartridge. Before you push! Pull out the film and make sure the cartridge is centered By using the film cartridge it creates nice spot for it to sit later on. Do not push the cartridge down to far! If you do then the crank won't fit or spin into the cartridge.
When everything fits like a glove Carefully pull the clay out by the saran wrap. Set on a balled up piece of tin foil so it doesn't loose its shape in the oven when you bake it. Put the tin foil on a baking pan and put it in the oven for 20 min.
After you have baked the clay put it in the camera and make sure it still fits. If it does great and if not you can shave parts down with the X-acto knife. It should sit snug but not too snug when you cover it, it won't fit.
After the piece fits nice and snug cover it with fabric. Apply glue with a brush and start with the inside where the film sits. Use the cartridge to push down the fabric against the clay so it sticks nicely. Let that dry then pull it around the back. When it is all dry trim the excess to fit.
Step 6: Making the Left Side Crank
Get the knob of your choice and with the 3/8" bit drill a hole in the center of the knob so the dowel can fit right in. Do not glue it yet.
Step 7: Left Side Hole
Once it is all measured Take The Clay Piece Out or you might catch it with the drill by accident. After thats out take an awl or something sharp and strong you can hit with a hammer. I used a screw because t hat's all I had. I believe that the body is made out of aluminum so it is not terribly hard to drill a hole if you have the right bits. Now you have a small dent so you can see where to drill. Shut the camera and stand it up on end when you drill the hole.
Wear Safety Glasses! The metal shavings fly and you don't want one to go in your eye.
After you break through, clean the hole with the round file to make it neat and smooth. Put the dowel in the hole and make sure it fits and spins with ease. If not file some more its ok if the hole is too big you can fix it later.
Step 8: Light Proofing the Left Side Hole
Because the metal has a funny bend and gets thinner for some reason we need to put a little piece of leather there so the other inside piece is flush and tightly sealed.
When you are happy with your piece dampen them lightly put the gorilla glue on them and clam away. Do Each Piece of Leather Separately Be Patient! This part needs to dry fully! it takes the most stress of anything on the camera and its a weird glue, leather to aluminum. when it is dry put the clay piece back in, force the dowel in and you are almost ready to get cranking.
Step 9: Making the Top Dowel
Step 10: Making the Right Side Spool
sorry I don't have a picture of the finished project until its in the camera i was in a bit of a rush and experimenting. go by the last picture for the final look.
once you have the spool turned and finished make sure it fits in your groves you made.
Step 11: Right Side Hole
Thats how u measure it just drill the hole and hopefully it will come right in between the bottom groove.
When the hole is drilled and cleaned shove that spool right on in there and make sure it fits.
To make the knob do the same exact thing except use a 5/16 drill bit.
Once the top fits securely, light proof the hole the same way with the leather and fabric, Except only put leather on the outside of the hole not the inside there is nowhere for it to go.
When it is all dry cut the hole put the spool in and glue the knob on and you are done!
Step 12: Conclusion
I hope you liked and found my intractable helpful its my first so please go easy on me. Thanks for reading!