How to Paint Clean Lines by starshipminivan
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Have you ever tried to use masking tape for its intended purpose only to discover that, no matter how carefully you apply the tape, paint bleeds under it, ruining your efforts?

Making clean paint lines between two colors doesn't have to require a steady hand or special equipment. This technique is very simple and requires only paint, brushes and masking tape. This time, however, you will be controlling the bleeding paint and using it to create crisp lines that precisely follow the edge of the tape.
 
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Step 1: First Color

paintlines 001.jpg
Lay down the first color, extending past the area where the line will be. If you are using two layers per color, paint both layers.
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StumpChunkman says: Jun 8, 2010. 1:52 PM
We did this for a video shoot at HQ, and it turned out great! You can still see a little of the red coat underneath the black top layer, because we did a rush job and only applied one coat (it would have been see through with any other technique and only one coat too).

But even with the rush, the line came out really nice, straight and clean. Thank so much, it looks awesome!
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ClayOgre says: Feb 3, 2013. 3:21 PM
I haven't tried this yet, but it looks like it should work quite well. THANK YOU!! This is an excellent idea.
jensenr30 says: Jul 2, 2011. 11:18 AM
great! i love this1
tinker234 says: Jun 19, 2011. 12:30 PM
wow thank you
bikeboy says: May 13, 2011. 6:53 AM
Diddely darn! Just pulled off the last masking tape in baby room today. Whish I did it your way... Used 5 different colours too!
trocar_noir says: Apr 21, 2011. 8:26 AM
This is genius..thanks!
avaistheone says: Aug 12, 2010. 2:06 PM
Looks fool proof. Thank you for posting this.
starshipminivan (author) says: Jun 17, 2010. 9:32 PM
I've also done this using spray paint. I know there are people who use other products such as glazes to control the bleed. I'm curious, are there other products that can be used to control the bleed with spray paint that anyone else knows of?
garling37 says: Jun 18, 2009. 1:03 PM
any good tips on getting the line straight from wall to ceiling I never get it straight i hate taping because one way or the other,when I take tape down and paint comes off either the wall or the ceiling I can't cut in straight and it drives me nuts.
Morganbarker says: Mar 1, 2010. 2:10 PM
 when you paint the wall color, stop JUST before you get to the ceiling.  if you stay within a 1/16" away from the true corner, it won't matter much if your line isn't perfectly straight.  the actual corner will create an optical illusion that makes the transition between wall and ceiling look straight and crisp.  I learned this trick going through my apprenticeship as a professional painter.  Obviously, the success of this trick is dependent on  a number of factors including the ceiling height, lighting, wall texture and the intensity in the color difference between wall and ceiling...(example where it may not work as well:  a room that gets a lot of sunlight, with low ceilings where the walls are a dark chocolate and the ceiling is stark white)  Your mileage may vary.
garling37 says: Jun 2, 2010. 5:32 PM
thanks i will have to try that im moving into a new house and all rooms have to be painted and of corse will not want to brake out the art brushes to satifiy my anel retentive straight line between cieling and wall so thanks again
finfan7 says: Jun 29, 2009. 5:22 PM
If the tape is taking the new paint off with it when you take it down you are waiting too long to remove it. If you remove it while the paint is wet it separates cleanly and as long as you are careful you won't get any paint on things you don't want to. If the tape is taking off the old paint you're using the wrong kind of tape.
przemek says: Jun 25, 2009. 8:36 AM
The secret to straight lines is to stick on the beginning of the tape at one end of your run, unroll and stretch it taut, and bring it down to stick at the other end. It should stick lightly along the full length, so you'll need to press it down gently so that it adheres well along the entire run. If you try to unroll the tape and stick it on as you go down the run, the edge will wander around.
------ says: Jun 2, 2010. 12:18 PM
Yep this is how I did it when I painted boats :)
It's kinda like the same method to pop a chalk line.
garling37 says: Jun 25, 2009. 12:49 PM
thank you I will try that I hate the wave between the wall and the ceilings
samandjan says: Mar 2, 2010. 8:31 PM
this may be even easir.  after you have put on your blue tape and rubbed it down apply about 1/2 in clear glaze.  the glaze fills the voids under the tape.   when the glaze is dry, just paint with the desired color.  this is a new fix for 20 yrs of being unhappy with wiggly lines, especially with textured walls.  works also where the ceiling meets the walls.
starshipminivan (author) says: Mar 2, 2010. 11:03 PM
You're not the first to suggest that.  I still use paint wherever possible because glaze, if it creates even a slightly different sheen, can be noticeable--too dull, too shiny, etc..  But if you take this into consideration, it would certainly work. 

The point that most people don't understand is that it's about working with the bleed.  It's still good, of course, to put down your tape carefully but at least this back-up allows you get consistent results despite tape issues.
iminthebathroom says: Oct 8, 2009. 9:55 AM
Yep, its works sooooo nice.  Thanks!
captain Jack says: Jul 30, 2009. 2:52 PM
so simple!
den08088 says: Jul 3, 2009. 5:54 PM
I'm not certain, but I believe it was Frank Lloyd Wright who said (paraphrased a bit) that a good solution to a problem should be elegant. This painting tip is one of those "elegant" solutions. Thanks.
ODDJOBS says: Jun 19, 2009. 1:56 AM
Oops. It should be "TESAKREPP"
ODDJOBS says: Jun 19, 2009. 1:53 AM
You'll notice that the tape is blue. It is a special masking tape of superior quality which is also less sticky than normal, which can be left (even on glass) for several weeks and still be removed with no tearing, residue etc. The brand name I use is "TESAKREP 4438" or just Tesa tape. Available from Paint suppliers.
lampajoo says: Jun 19, 2009. 12:33 AM
brilliant
JorritJ says: Jun 16, 2009. 1:52 AM
Great instructable! My thoughts: Always use the right tape for the job. Use the blue paper tape for masking lines, not the white tape because that will not stick to your surface without any gaps. Another tip if your painting a line on a small surface, or you can't paint the other side: use a template brush. Those are the thick brushes with short hairs. Just tap on the paint along the lines. This gives a great result, but will be a lot of work for big surfaces.
tommy tinker says: Jun 12, 2009. 3:33 PM
I have worked in construction ever since I was 14 and worked as a head painter for 13 years for a small outfit that was specializing in custom residential paint jobs. this is absolutely correct, the edge of the tape that you are painting to MUST be sealed to prevent bleeding. Excellent instructable. However, having said that, I did a large commercial job a few years ago and time didn't permit me to use that technique, after a long sleepless night I decided to use something from another profession, an arborite roller. It's about four inches long made of hard rubber and about twenty bucks. After placing the tape I ran over it with the roller to seal it to the wall and NO bleeding, the tape will work if it is good quality and placed correctly.
starshipminivan (author) says: Jun 12, 2009. 4:37 PM
Thanks for the real-world reply. I think this is a valid point--as long as the tape's edge is sealed, that's how you get a nice line. I think that the initial coat of paint has to be fairly well cured for the tape to be used in this way--or it likes to stick (as I've learned in previous taping episodes). My father used to build custom cabinets for years and specialized in laminate (formica, etc.) so think I am familiar with the kind of product you are describing. That would certainly seal tape well. Brayers used in art are similar but smaller and cheaper and might work for someone doing projects at home. They are hard rubber rollers for applying ink and other printing uses.
tommy tinker says: Jun 13, 2009. 9:02 AM
The cheaper it is the better it is as long as it works. Excellent suggestion. And yes, I forgot to mention that the first coat needs to be cured first.
kkinney says: Jun 11, 2009. 7:08 PM
A very good idea for dealing with the problem. I like elegant solutions. Personally I use black electrical tape. Absolutely zero bleed. Plus, it's flexible enough to make curved lines or pinstripes. Also, when pulling off the tape pull it away from the second color. In your example, this would be in an upward direction. This way you don't rip off shards of the new color.
starshipminivan (author) says: Jun 12, 2009. 4:39 PM
I will have to try electrical tape sometime. I love it when things have a uses outside of their intended purpose.
jossdw says: Jun 12, 2009. 4:06 PM
Best tool to use to get into corners and paint a straight line by hand is a 12 mm bevel paint brush - cost about a buck. I'm obsessive about straight lines - they sream of quality.
starshipminivan (author) says: Jun 12, 2009. 4:25 PM
In my home painting on corners and along ceilings, I use a sash brush with the point of it sort of drawing the line and "eyeball it." I've gotten pretty good at it so that's normally how I tackle those areas. This instructable was intended for clean lines between two paint colors (as in decorative elements rather than corners, etc.) but I think, for the worried or frustrated painter, it translates well to these other applications.
Nicknight says: Jun 11, 2009. 10:46 PM
I am painting stripes on a mobile hamburger stand at the moment and got bleeding. I'll give this a try. Very timely, thanks very much.
oldnukeet says: Jun 11, 2009. 6:38 PM
Champersand had it right - Abso-friggin-lutely BRILLIANT! I have fought with this problem for 20+ years painting I dont know how many homes and apartments we've lived in - next job will look great. Thanks again. If brevity is the soul of wit then simplicity is the soul of genius - Me.
annfill says: Jun 11, 2009. 5:17 PM
Thankyou for that tip- it is going to save me heaps of angst. I am very gratefull.
hotLatte says: Jun 11, 2009. 2:58 PM
Genius. 'Love it.
GrantLevy says: Jun 11, 2009. 1:44 PM
Thank you! That explains why the edge of my painted cabinets came out with the wall color on them! Now I know what to do! Again, thank you!
bettybst says: Jun 11, 2009. 10:22 AM
I've never left a comment before, but this instructable is great! Thank you for the simple-but-I-never-thought-of-it trick.
WonderSlug says: Jun 11, 2009. 8:01 AM
Thanks thats an awesome tip. Another thing you can do is place a ultra thin layer of paintable caulk over the edge of the tape on the line you want to join. Literally smearing it along the edge with your finger very thin. This way the caulk takes up any of the voids where paint might go under the tape and you don't have to paint the same color over and under the tape.
starshipminivan (author) says: Jun 11, 2009. 8:44 AM
Won't the caulk color show once the tape is removed? Or is it clear? Even a clear product used in this matter--and they do make them--could create differences in opacity or reflectivity that may give a jagged edge to the line. It will appear more shiny or more matte even if the color comes through the product. However, the paint (which matches precisely in all qualities and is already on hand) is going to have a straight edge with the same light bouncing qualities.
WonderSlug says: Jun 11, 2009. 9:15 AM
Using the paintable caulk it doesnt matter your painting over it with the other color. I gernally just use a white caulk thats paintable (Generic stuff from Home Depot) The caulk is layer is so thin its not even seen really when its drys and since your smearing it out so thin it drys in a couple of minutes. I have done several rooms this way in my house and have seen no difference in the at the edge.
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