Step 15: Get the Un-used Paint Back in the Can

Brush out the tray into the original gallon of paint (the "master can"). You do not have to clean the tray if you use a tray insert (seen in this tray). If you do not have an insert for the tray then you should clean the tray well. Dried paint in the tray could contaminate your next job.

Secure the lid with your foot.
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Look at the brief video about how to clean the paint roller in a fun and fast way: http://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/22248/how-to-clean-a-large-paint-roller <br>
If you DON'T have a steady hand and want a real tight line at the ceiling try this. You will need the ceiling paint for this project. <br><br>After you've blue taped the ceiling, where it meets the wall, LIGHTLY paint over the edge of the blue tape where it meets the wall. The ceiling color will seep underneath the tape (blue tape ALWAYS seeps!). <br><br>After the light coat dries go ahead with painting the walls. <br><br>BEFORE the wall paint dries, SLOWLY peel off the blue tape..... and voila and tight line! <br><br>You DON'T want a heavy paint line of the ceiling paint just enough to seal off the tape line. You can also do this with the trim. <br><br>On old, hacked up, lumpy, multi-painted layers trim you're better off free-handing it, NO TAPE will save you on that. <br><br>FOR TEXTURED WALLS, a heavier coat along the tape line is needed but it's not perfect (that's why I HATE texture!!!)<br><br>If you can.... SPEND THE EXTRA MONEY on smooth coat walls. The are MUCH easier to paint and/or repair. Using &quot;orange peel&quot; spray cans on texture repairs isn't as easy as it seems... and if you have a heavy texture or a knockdown make sure that if you hire a person to repair the wall they KNOW WHAT THEY ARE DOING! Most of the time..... you get what you pay for!<br><br>I work in the trades, we understand that sometimes our prices/quotes seem high... that's because we take pride in our work, and that means never knowing that repairs have been done

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