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Step 6Soldering leftmost points
Because I'm left handed, it was easiest for me to start with the lowest of the points to solder and work my way up. Locate the wire for the Right direction, separate it from the other wires in the batch, and cut it so it is just long enough to go past the point it will be soldered to.
Preparing the wire:
Use an Xacto knife to trim about 1-2mm of insulation off of the end. Twist the exposed wires and add a very small dab of flux. Melt a very small amount of solder on the end of your iron, and touch to the wires. The solder will get sucked up into the wires, tinning it. You'll be doing this step for every wire, so get the hang of it. From here out, I'll just call this tinning the wire.
The spot the wire will go here on the Dpad already has a little solder on the pad, so soldering the wire is simply a matter of resting the tinned wire on the pad, and touching it with the iron. Make sure none of the wire is outside of the pad, and that no solder is outside of the pad. Repeat on up for the Left, Down, and Up directions.
After the Dpad, the leftmost spot is the left bumper, LB. We'll be connecting this to the Fierce button, so locate the wire for Fierce, separate it from the batch, and cut it to length. Tin the wire, put it through the hole the LB switch was in, and solder from the back side.
Next is the spot for the left trigger. Rather than trying to use the copper pads the now-removed potentiometer used, we'll be using a test point on the front that is connected to it. You'll find this point under where the plus-shaped Dpad board was. Find the wire for RA0/Extra0, our 'fourth punch' wire, trim it to length, and tin it. This is the first pad we've soldered to that didn't already have solder and isn't a through-hole, so we should prepare the pad by tinning it too.
Tinning copper pads:
Use your iron again the pad to heat it up good; the hotter the pad, the better the connection. After a couple of seconds of heating, add a little solder, and remove the iron. Now you have solder on the pad and on the wire, so you're ready to go.
Place the tinned wire on the tinned pad, and touch the iron.
Preparing the wire:
Use an Xacto knife to trim about 1-2mm of insulation off of the end. Twist the exposed wires and add a very small dab of flux. Melt a very small amount of solder on the end of your iron, and touch to the wires. The solder will get sucked up into the wires, tinning it. You'll be doing this step for every wire, so get the hang of it. From here out, I'll just call this tinning the wire.
The spot the wire will go here on the Dpad already has a little solder on the pad, so soldering the wire is simply a matter of resting the tinned wire on the pad, and touching it with the iron. Make sure none of the wire is outside of the pad, and that no solder is outside of the pad. Repeat on up for the Left, Down, and Up directions.
After the Dpad, the leftmost spot is the left bumper, LB. We'll be connecting this to the Fierce button, so locate the wire for Fierce, separate it from the batch, and cut it to length. Tin the wire, put it through the hole the LB switch was in, and solder from the back side.
Next is the spot for the left trigger. Rather than trying to use the copper pads the now-removed potentiometer used, we'll be using a test point on the front that is connected to it. You'll find this point under where the plus-shaped Dpad board was. Find the wire for RA0/Extra0, our 'fourth punch' wire, trim it to length, and tin it. This is the first pad we've soldered to that didn't already have solder and isn't a through-hole, so we should prepare the pad by tinning it too.
Tinning copper pads:
Use your iron again the pad to heat it up good; the hotter the pad, the better the connection. After a couple of seconds of heating, add a little solder, and remove the iron. Now you have solder on the pad and on the wire, so you're ready to go.
Place the tinned wire on the tinned pad, and touch the iron.
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