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Step 3STAPLE!
This is the fun part- an excuse to use a staple gun. Ours is a sweet electric version that can punch through most anything. In any case, be careful- don't staple your fingers, your eyes, your leg, or anything else but the fabric and the seat back.
Start with the flat front side, and staple from the center out towards the edges. You want to make sure the fabric is smooth and tight, without bunches between your staples. This is much like wrapping a present- if you can do that, you can re-cover a chair.
Now spin the seat, and tug the back of the fabric into position. Pull firmly against the front row of staples to be sure you've gotten rid of any wrinkles or bunches. Again, start stapling at the center and spread outwards.
When the seat back starts to curve, take folds/tucks in your fabric. The goal is to have all the bunching UNDER the seat, not on top. Try a few different things, and see how it works. Remember, you can always pull the staples out and try again until you get it right.
Staple the sides, again tugging firmly to make sure the fabric is tight over the top of the seat.
Do the corners last. I found it best to take a fold on each side of the corner, then make a pleat along the diagonal- look at the pictures for inspiration, then do what works best for you. Again, yank staples and re-do anything you don't like.
Things to think about:
1) How many staples to use? My staples were kind of small, and I love stapling, so I used more than absolutely necessary. Scale as appropriate for your fabric, staple size, and entertainment, but make sure you use enough to share the strain across your fabric.
2) Where do the screws go? If you have to screw your seat back on, take care not to block the screw holes with lots of fabric or staples. You can go through one layer of fabric easily, but staples are a problem.
3) Is it tidy? Be sure to hammer down any staples that aren't flush, and trim any extraneous blobs of fabric.
Start with the flat front side, and staple from the center out towards the edges. You want to make sure the fabric is smooth and tight, without bunches between your staples. This is much like wrapping a present- if you can do that, you can re-cover a chair.
Now spin the seat, and tug the back of the fabric into position. Pull firmly against the front row of staples to be sure you've gotten rid of any wrinkles or bunches. Again, start stapling at the center and spread outwards.
When the seat back starts to curve, take folds/tucks in your fabric. The goal is to have all the bunching UNDER the seat, not on top. Try a few different things, and see how it works. Remember, you can always pull the staples out and try again until you get it right.
Staple the sides, again tugging firmly to make sure the fabric is tight over the top of the seat.
Do the corners last. I found it best to take a fold on each side of the corner, then make a pleat along the diagonal- look at the pictures for inspiration, then do what works best for you. Again, yank staples and re-do anything you don't like.
Things to think about:
1) How many staples to use? My staples were kind of small, and I love stapling, so I used more than absolutely necessary. Scale as appropriate for your fabric, staple size, and entertainment, but make sure you use enough to share the strain across your fabric.
2) Where do the screws go? If you have to screw your seat back on, take care not to block the screw holes with lots of fabric or staples. You can go through one layer of fabric easily, but staples are a problem.
3) Is it tidy? Be sure to hammer down any staples that aren't flush, and trim any extraneous blobs of fabric.
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