Because sometimes you really just want to remove Ember's linear drive. Just ask our quality engineer Dan!
Step 1: Remove Front Panel
There are four screws holding Ember's front panel on. Two M3x12mm (use an M2 hex key) screws above the middle platform and two on No. 10 torx head screws on the bottom. You can probably remove the torx screws with the M2 hex key as well.
Step 2: Remove Two Bottom Screws From the Back Panel
You don't need to take the whole back panel off but the bottom two will get in the way removing the frame. They are M3x12mm and can be removed with an M2 hex key.
Step 3: Remove Side and Top Frame Screws
There are three sets of four screws that mount the extrusions to the body of Ember. Two sets are located on either side towards the bottom of Ember (M4x12mm) and the third is on the top of Ember (M4x30mm w/ washer). These can all be removed with an M2.5 hex key.
Step 4: Unplug Door Sensor and Frame Grounding Cable
The door sensor and grounding cable are attached to the frame and will need to be unplugged before lifting off the frame. Their connections are located on the right side of Ember. The door sensor is the two wire black cable closer to the back of Ember along the ports labelled switches (circled in blue). I usually use a hex key to depress the cable lock of the door sensor. The grounding cable is held on via a No. 10 torx screw, but again you can probably use an M2 hex key. It's a green cable and the screw is circled in green.
Step 5: Lift Off the Frame and Door
Now with the all the frame bolts undone lift off the frame and the door from Ember, be careful to guide the cables on their way out so you don't ruin the plug.
Step 6: Remove the Build Arm
There are four M6x15mm screws that hold the build arm on you can remove them with an M4 hex key.
Step 7: Unplug the Z-drive Homing Sensor From the Top
There's a three conductor blue wire that runs to the homing sensor on top of the Z-drive. Unplug it and slip it out of the cable routing harness.