Do you drive a GM car (200 and up) and have gone past 70-80 thousand miles only to have your gauges (speedo, temp, and fuel) go out on you? Don't want to pay the $500 (more/less) that the dealer or shop will charge you? then read on and save a few hundred bucks and have the piece of mind that you fixed something on your car yourself.

I had to pay for this info when this problem happened to me several years ago, but I feel that people should not have to be taken advantage of when it comes to the repair work of the car.

I have been contacted by the person who I bought this information from and I have removed his photos, ALL OF THE PHOTOS IN THIS INSTRUCTABLE ARE FROM MY CELLPHONE CAM.


Step 1: How to Repair a GM Speedometer

Here are the tools that you are going to need

1. Soldering Iron
2. Solder
3. Needle nose pliers
4. Multi tool ( or a small screwdriver/something with a small point to it for prying)
5. Solder bulb
6. Regular Kitchen Fork

7. Masking tape


<p>My 2005 Aztek has a temp gauge on the far right of the panel that is indexed in a counterclockwise direction (e.g. &quot;C&quot; is on the bottom right of the rotation and &quot;H&quot; is on the top left of the rotation. How do I index a stepper to turn in the counterclockwise direction? Thanks!!!</p>
<p>I have never done that before, but the procedure should be the same, you would mark where the current needle sits at when off with some tape or something, remove and replace the motor, and when you put the needle back on wherever you put it move it counterclockwise until it lines up with the marked spot. Wish I could be of more help </p>
<p>Did you replace just one motor or all of them? I had a flaky volt/battery meter for some time but ignored it as I have a &quot;battery tester&quot; that plugs into the cigarette lighter. <br><br>Within a two day period my oil, temp, and fuel motors all went crazy prompting me to fix this once and for all. I'm waiting for my motors to arrive and will replace all of them even though the tach and speedometer are still working. <br><br>I also plan to replace the lights even if they are not burned out.</p><p>Just a suggestion for anyone else with this problem.</p>
Hi Jollyrgr, YES! I replaced all of the motors.
<p>My oil pressure gauge and battery gauges are pegged out. Do I still need to mark the needles and put them back to the &quot;pegged&quot; position?</p>
<p>they did not go there as a result of the gauges going out on you did they? is so then they are in the wrong position and the answer would be no. BUT, if they are in the &quot;normal position&quot; when the car is off, they YES, if you do not do this then the gauges will give an incorrect reading, try to be a Meticulous as possible when doing this , you do not want your gauges telling you the wrong readings</p>
<p>Thank you. That's what I thought. Just every tutorial I've seen has the gauges in the correct position when the key is off and mine does not. I'll set them as close to the correct position as I can.</p>
<p>I just bought a 2002 sunfire. The instrumentation cluster works till I get going then everything dies out. They go back working again when I am just about at a complete stop. Also., my lights (engine., tire pressure., emerg. brake etc) lights are always on as well. any ideas?</p>
<p>not sure about that with the cluster... it could be a lose connection somewhere or you might need to spray some contact cleaner on the harness... it could be a number of things... but for the lights, I would recommend you get your tires checked, then check out another of my Instructables <a href="http://www.instructables.com/id/How-to-Reset-the-TPMS-Tire-Pressure-Monitoring-Sys/" rel="nofollow">HERE</a> to see if that helps. not sure on the rest of the lights though, sorry </p>
<p>Any idea on how to replace one of those lcd's? My gear shift indicator is so dim, barely readable at night. It's gotten worse within the last six months</p>
<p>There's nothing wrong w/ the lcd's. You need to resolder the existing resistors. There are 7 just below/left of the plug. Resolder each end &amp; you should be good to go. If that doesn't work, start looking for cracks in the other ones.</p>
<p>your best bet would be EBay to try to get just the shift indicator unit. if you take the face of the cluster off you can see that it is soldered in with quite a few pins and can be de-soldered and a new or used unit can be re-soldered back in. or if you are brave you could replace all of the LED'S in the indicator unit along with any capacitors that might be in there and keep the lights the same color, or change them to whatever you want. I have thought about doing this but do not have the time</p>
I had an ol' chevy I had to replace the speedometer, .... and one other gauge (I can't remember what other one)..... So I just went to the junk-yard and got a replacement for the whole instrument cluster. .... I just replaced the whole cluster n' never had any more probs. your way of fixing it is probably much better though since my odometer was obviously off after that, and I had to be careful to get the correct match cluster or the speedometer woulda' been out of sync with the car's true speed.
The motors are only $8+ dollars, I did the cluster replacement thing and all of those motors went out at 80+ thousand miles too
did this to my '04 trail blazer...or fire blazer since it caught fire from the transmission...anyhow...the way I lined my dials back up was to install in the vehicle without the plastic cover on, make sure the vehicle was cold and just turn the key on...all the gauges should read zero (0) at that point, then I just slipped the needles back on pointing to zero...after I reassembled everything I run it down the road and checked the speed with my GPS and it was spot on, the rest of the gauges looked good enough. They are just there for looks anyhow since most of the new vehicles also come with idiot lights...Great instructible
Excellent Tutorial did this last month to an 04 Yukon Denali. Took less than 20 minutes to complete. I prefer the solder wick to the bulb though it is much easier and quicker to remove &quot;All&quot; the solder from the pad.
I only have a cheap lo-temp soldering iron and when I tried to use the wick it did not work as good for me as the bulb did. Once I get a decent soldering iron I think that the wick will do better.

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