loading

Step 1: Buy a Hammer

I bought a plane setting hammer for one euro.
It is in pretty good shape and will only need minor improvements.

Step 2: Start the Process

Saw off the head. So you can use a drift to punch out the remaining part of the handle in the head.

Step 3: Sanding the Head

After you have taken out the handle, you start sanding the hammer head to take off any rust or gunk that is on there.

Step 4: Sanding the Handle

When you are done sanding the head you start sanding the handle to bear wood (remove dirt or lacker)

Step 5: Sawing the Wedgeslot

When you are done sanding you start sawing a slot for the wedge. Dont go too deep. But dont make it too shalow. Or the wedge wont go deep enough.

Step 6: Fitting the Head

Now you start putting on the head. You want it to sit tinht but not too tight. USE A WOODEN MALLET not a steel hammer. or you will damnage the handle and head.
After the head is on you put glue on the wedge and hammer it in using a wooden mallet. Otherwise the wedge will crack.

Step 7: Making the Handle Finish

Using terpentine and boiled linseed oil in a 1 to 1 ratio you make a small amout of th mixture (doesnt need to be alot)
You apply it wearing gloves and with a piece of paper towel. You can allso put some of the mixture on the head to prevent it from rusting.

Step 8: Extra Creddit

Now when the oil in the handle is dried you need to apply pure linseed oil on the handle onece a week
<p>The only time the I have put a new handle on so far, I used a wooden wedge and then 90 degress to that was a thin metal toothed wedge. It wont budge for a good long time. </p>
<p>soak the top in boiled linseed oil and you've done the complete job. The oil swells the handle inside the eye, then won't let it dry out.</p>
<p>thanks will do</p>
<p>over the past couple of days I've soaked a couple hammers of mine here myself. I don't really soak mine though, I stand them upright in a vise (a Record Quick Vise with rubber padded jaws) and just put a puddle of linseed oil up on the eye.</p>
<p>The hammer that I am going to be doing first is a very old, and used copper hammer, Now that I have the head off, I want to see if I can anneal the ends at least. Currently it chips when I use it becuase the ends are sooooo work hardened. </p>
<p>The hammer that I am going to be doing first is a very old, and used copper hammer, Now that I have the head off, I want to see if I can anneal the ends at least. Currently it chips when I use it becuase the ends are sooooo work hardened. </p>
<p>Is not a plastic handle better? Wood has it's place, but when it's a hammer handle, I always feel the need to check the connection to the head. With the synthetic composition handle, I can have confidence that the connection is secure. That's one less concern.</p>
<p>I use metal hammer wedges when I replace handles, if the head becomes loose on the handle you can drift them tight again.</p><p>I also only oil handles once when I fit them, and make sure the oil is completely dry before using it.</p>
<p>One way to handle a hammer is to run a wooden wedge in the saw kerf, trim that, then put metal wedges perpendicular to the wooden wedge. Then the handle expands in all directions. Many would consider that the only proper way to do it. I'd agree with them too.</p>
<p>on axes i do that but not on this small hammer. it was a tight fit allready and didn't need a metal wedge</p>
<p>If the head is on solid then I suppose you do not.</p>
You can secure the wood wedge with epoxy or wood glue as well
@alywolf you could buy a handle or just make one out of a hickory billet
<p>Thank you for this instructable. I have several hammers that need this, but many of them have bad handles, any suggestions? </p>
<p>Wow - that's a wide wedge. I usually make mines much narrower.</p>
Why would you bother having to put oil in the handle once a week . That's stupid
<p>I totally agree. Once a year if at all is absolutely sufficient.</p>
Just a point, most hammers I've re handled have not had a straight design the main grip there usually wider then the eye section to allow them to be held comfortably meaning if you cut the head off the handle will no longer go into the eye.
<p>Great restoration job!</p>
<p>Great restoration job!</p>

About This Instructable

7,160views

58favorites

License:

More by The_knifemaker123:How to Restote a Hammer 
Add instructable to: