Introduction: How to Sew and Embroider Link's Scarf From Hyrule Warriors
^^ Make sure to check out this video tutorial! ^^
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- 1m blue fabric (quilting fabric works well)
- If you are making this for a child, you can use less fabric. Simply measure from the shoulder down to where you want the scarf to end. Half the fabric will dangle from the shoulder and half will wrap around the shoulders and chest. If you’re making this for a short person with wide shoulders or a tall person with narrow shoulders, you’ll want to do some measuring first. Otherwise, one meter works fine for an average adult or if you’re making the scarf to wear for winter instead of as a costume piece.
- If this scarf is being made for warmth, quilting fabric might be too stiff and uncomfortable as a scarf. You can try fleece or try doing the embroidery on a pre-purchased scarf or pashmina.
Step 1: Step 1: Pattern
- Print the pattern on cardstock or stiff paper. If you don’t
have any, you can carefully place cellophane tape on the back of the paper to keep it sturdy.
- Cut out the pieces from the pattern using a blade. You want to create one big stencil (instead of creating tons of small pieces that are hard to pin down).
- Iron your fabric (maintaining the folded edge). Lay your
fabric flat. Measure where the half-way point is, following along the folded edge (see image). Draw a line parallel to the folded edge where the center is. This is a guide for your pattern.
- Place your pattern in the bottom corner of your fabric and center it using the edge of the fabric and line you drew. You want about 6cm under the last cut edge on the bottom (it will be an orange diagonal line). 4cm will be the bottom of the scarf, and 2cm will be a seam allowance for machine sewing. Pin the pattern to the fabric. If possible, pin on top of a sturdy carpet or piece of foam/cardboard. This way you can place the pins straight down and not warp the pattern at all. Trace the pattern using a very fine pen that doesn’t bleed on fabric. Cut the fabric up the fold and repeat the process for the second embroidered side.
Step 2: Step 2: Embroidery
Place your fabric in your embroidery hoop and tighten. Cut a 1m strip of embroidery floss and divide the 6-strand piece into two 3-strand pieces. This makes the embroidery lay flatter and makes your floss stretch further. Using a satin stitch, fill in the areas with floss. For the scarf I have made in the example, I didn’t make any stitches beyond the fill stitch (some satin stitches are done differently). This will take between 3-5 hours per side. If you are unsure of how to do a satin stitch, there are many tutorials on YouTube. Also, if you are new to embroidery, also review how to start and end a stitch without using a knot. Since the pieces should be pretty flat, the absence of knots makes the piece smoother. Make sure your stitches aren’t bigger than ¼-1/2 an inch. For covering areas larger than these stitches, you will blend a new row of stitches next to it until the area is full. This can also be searched on YouTube.
Step 3: Step 3: Sewing
- After you are finished with the embroidery, it is time to cut the 4 strips of the scarf. Fold your fabric in half where you marked the half-way line previously. Iron along the edge. Decide how wide you would like the scarf. For the one pictured, it is 3.5cm from the top of the red wing to the edge, and another 2cm for a seam allowance. Therefore, I had 5.5cm from the wing. Make a dot on both sides with your measurement. Next, measure how far your dot is from the edge of the fabric. Take this measurement and use it to measure lines up both sides. Trim this edge off and repeat for the other piece of fabric.
- Put the front side of an embroidered piece and blank piece of fabric together. Sew the two pieces together on the non-embroidered narrow side to make one long strip. Repeat to create the other strip.
- Put the wrong sides of the new strips together and sew all the way around, leaving about a 2cm seam allowance and a 4-inch gap. Cut off the corners after the stitching and pull the fabric right-side out. Iron the scarf, making nice straight edges, and hand stitch the opening. Machine stitch the edges of the scarf about 5mm from the edge.
Step 4: Step 4: Finishing It Off
- Using a ruler, mark out the lines for the rest of the embroidery. You’ll need 1cm below the bottom of the embroidery, 1cm for the red line, and 1cm below that.
- For embroidering the red line, you’ll need to stitch around the sides so the blue doesn’t show on the edges. You’ll do a satin stitch for the line, but will be stitching both sides together. Make sure your embroidery looks good on both sides.
- For the fringe at the bottom, again you will stitch the sides so the blue doesn’t show. While in the wrapper, cut your embroidery floss at both ends to make a bunch of short strips. Divide these in half to make floss of 3 threads. With your needle, insert the thread on your line from front to back. Bring your needle back to the front and put it back through the very edge of the fabric. Leave space in the loop you’ve made to insert the front bit of floss. Even out the threads and pull until the loop is held tight. Check both the back and front of your stitches to make sure they are close and look good. Continue this way along the edge until it is done.
Aside from a bit of extra ironing to finish off the piece, it is complete!
The total cost for this project is fairly low – about $10. The embroidery does take a lot of time, however, but the finished piece is worth it. If you don’t wish to do a lot of work or don’t have the time for it, here are some ideas:
- Paint the pattern using a fine brush while on the embroidery loop (for clean drying).
- Cut the shapes out of stick-on felt and attach them using the adhesive.
- Cut the shapes out of felt or another fray-free fabric and use an iron-on adhesive to attach them.
- Add colour to the shapes in MS Word, print it on iron-on transfer paper, cut out the shapes, and iron them on the fabric. It might help to draw the pattern on the fabric first to ensure correct placement.
- Use ribbon to make the red lines – thin ribbon for the top, and thick for the bottom.
- Use red fabric for the red strip at the bottom.
Fourth Prize in the
Winter Wearables Contest
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