Step 4:

Insert component in circuit board by using a pair of tweezers. If soldering iron is hot enough, take it from stand and hold it as a pen.

Place a tip of soldering iron to the solder joint and hold for a couple of seconds. Make sure that iron tip touches at the same time both the copper pad on circuit board and the component lead. Heating the only one part but not the other will result in poorly created joints.  Thermal linkage is the area of contact between the iron tip and surface of solder joint. The contact between the iron tip and surface is usually very small straight line along iron tip. Thermal linkage can be significantly increased by adding a small amount of solder to the line of contact between iron tip and surface.  Molten solder forms a heat bridge between the tip and the solder joint. This solder bridge provides the better and quicker transfer of heat into the solder joint.

Continue heating and then apply some solder to the solder joint, not to the tip of soldering iron. Solder should melt and flow smoothly onto the copper surface of pad filling a gap between component lead and copper pad. Two most common problems with soldering are adding too much or not enough solder.

All soldering operation should be completed in less than 2 seconds. The time of soldering operation depends on the temperature of your iron and size of the joint. If we keep applying heat longer than 2 seconds, this can break the pads or conductors on circuit board or damage temperature-sensitive components. 

Remove the soldering iron while keeping the joint sill - do not move circuit board for a few seconds to allow the joint to cool down and solder to solidify.

Clean flux residues with ethanol alcohol or some other solvent.
Great effort! Your ible on soldering covers all the basics in a clear, focused manner. I had 40 hours of soldering class, from the Army. That was 42 years ago. Almost everything else has changed. Soldering by hand has remained the same. I look forward to more items from you. Thanks.
you should also add that after cutting the left over from the component you should heat the solder joint once more to prevent the solder from fractioning in use or over time. also if possible the component for soldering should have straight legs, not bent ones like in the pictures. but good guide! (remember anyone! when you solder something, do it right so it will last. if possible do a medical and military crade soldering.)
Thank you for your comment and suggestions. I agree that component for soldering should have straight legs and that is shown on image in step 4. Component for soldering in that image has a straight leg but there is also solder wire touching component leg and tip of soldering iron. This solder wire is very thin 0.020" (0.50 mm) so it looks like leg of another component. I understand from your comment that this is a little bit confusing and thank you for pointing at this.
very nice...........information............
You wussy amateurs make me laugh. ESD bah! What is this the 80s? Today if a component fails due to ESD I blame the component, not handling. Clamp diodes fixed that nonsense decades ago now. <br> <br>Flux fumes off a measly soldering iron? You should get good and flux poisoned someday, just so you know what it is really like. I have been. It didn't happen off the tip of any iron either. You baby. Then you'll be tough like me, and enjoy how flux smells off just an iron. <br> <br>If you want to get flux poisoned drop some flux on top of a molten solder pot, let it bead, and dance around, then it'll just lay there getting good and black sitting on top of the pool. That'll do you in. You don't need fume extraction off a little pencil iron though. <br> <br>If I was doing the QA I'd fail the solder joint in step 5 as you have an inclusion void in it. I know MIL SPEC quality when I see it too, and you're using a tad too much solder. It is almost impossible to do by hand without wicking, then retouching.
indeed a helpful one!!!.... <br>
Very helpful, Thanks for the grerat post!

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