There are several different styles ranging from using small conical tips, to solder paste and re-flow, to drag soldering, but we will just cover drag soldering in this tutorial.
Materials Needed:
Soldering Station -Weller, Hakko, or similar type that has a good range of tips.(NTGW gullwing or T18-C2 bevel)
Solder -If you don't have some good quality solder do yourself a favor and pick some up, it is expensive but will last a very long time.
Flux -depending on your style and the part that is being soldered this may vary and some may prefer a tacky type to a liquid, I am using a Kester 2331-ZX type flux pen.
Clean Wipes- If your flux is the corrosive type you will want to clean up after the IC is finished, use some nice lint free wipes.
PCB and IC to solder!
The steps involved are really straight forward, and once you get the hang of this technique you will use those difficult ICs in more projects! The only real steps are 1) Position IC, 2) Tack or affix IC in place 3) Solder each side or pin!
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Signing UpStep 1Initial Setup
Start by cleaning, tinning, and then cleaning the tip again. This will make sure it is ready to go, with a "pure" surface that will transfer heat evenly and quickly. Apply a fair amount of solder on the tip to keep it from oxidizing and place it back in the stand while we ready the rest of the steps.
First take one of the wipes and a bit of isopropyl alcohol and thoroughly clean the pad and area where our IC will be mounted. We don't want any dust, old flux or other contaminants interfering with our work!
After we have cleaned off the pads we can apply an ample amount of fresh flux, don't worry if it extends too much in any direction most will burn off and we will clean the rest in the last step!
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Thanks for giving me the confidence to try something new :)
Now I have a use for all the smds I stripped off scrap boards over the years. Thank you.
So color me not interested as I leave SMT to the pick and place machines it was designed for.
I think any tools, methods, or knowledge that can make "hacking", hobbies, software or other activities like this more accessible are a great service to those interested. After all that is what this site is all about, limiting would be to simply shrug this off when it can clearly be done, and quite easily at that.
(On a side note a DIY PnP to an oven similar to a production line would be sweet! Someone make this project/instructables!)
You mentioned it so I blame you! Which likely isn't fair, but who ever said life was fair?
BUT, on the other side... there are some things I do like about SMT. If you're getting boards made for your projects and you want to limit the size of the board for price reasons, it's hard to beat surface mount. While a board with only through hole parts might be 30x30 (usually above the price break size from hobby level manufacturers), you can easily squeeze that onto a 10x10 or 20x20 board, which are much cheaper. I'll use through hole and perf board for protos... but when I need to get a few boards made, I'll usually swap to surface mount just because it is so much cheaper for me.
It is a trade off though, the extra effort you have to put into the surface mount parts versus the additional cost of through hole components and the additional costs of boards being made larger for those through hole parts.
As far as gutting the hobby... I'll always blame the ex-hobby shops like Radio Shack for that. When I was younger I used to be able to walk into RS and they'd have 2 full isles for just components. Peg after peg of at least the basics. Now it's all cell phones and iPod cases... the parts are in a little parts bin in the back and it's always out of stock of anything useful (who doesn't have at least a few 555's, I mean... come on RS...). I have to get all my parts from online places now (at $5 in shipping for each little order) and while I know my way around sites like DigiKey and Mouser, they do confuse some of the newer people and that can/does frighten some people off. ... /rant
Don't blame Radio Shack. They had to adjust with the times. Everyone else didn't and they went out of business. Long ago everyone could see a tube glow and they knew it was working etc. But things have miniaturized so much today that electronics is simply too abstract a subject for most now.
It is hard to be too interested in what you cannot even see.
I just paid $46 to get 2 10 mm capacitors shipped to me. Granted I didn't have to pick overnight, but I was in a rush to get them. Was Mouser in case anyone is wondering. I needed them to repair my TV. For what it cost I almost could have had someone else do it for me though.
Question: I am under the impression that the "pocket" in the tip is essential for this method to work. You mentioned a bevel tip (the Hakko), which does not have the pocket. Am I mistaken? It seems very hard to find these tips; would you have any suggestion on where to get them?
Thanks, Fabio
I sure will give this a try ;-)