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Step 3Deep Purple
Warning: Science Content!
Primer for PVC serves almost the same purpose as priming in painting applications. Paint primer prepares the surface and gives the paint molecules a nice material to adhere to. PVC primer cleans debris, then "digests" the surface molecules of the PVC part, so that when the solvent/cement is applied, it can easily dissolve the outer layers.
This stuff contains 13-17% Methyl Ethyl Ketone, 70-80% Acetone (dimethyl ketone), 5-10% cyclohexanone, and negligible amounts of other nasty chemicals.
Open the can of (purple) primer. If it's the first time it's been opened, you might need a really big guy or a pipe wrench to break the seal. Most of the time, the swab is built right into the top.
Pull out the applicator, which is attached to the lid, and dab it against the side of the can to let the excess run out. This stuff runs like water and stains EVERYTHING. It will probably saturate the top of the can.
Cover each surface to be welded on both parts thoroughly. Just be careful about runs. If you are doing tons of fittings, you can go ahead and prime everything, it's perfectly fine to prime parts ahead of time, so long as they don't get dirty before cementing.
Primer for PVC serves almost the same purpose as priming in painting applications. Paint primer prepares the surface and gives the paint molecules a nice material to adhere to. PVC primer cleans debris, then "digests" the surface molecules of the PVC part, so that when the solvent/cement is applied, it can easily dissolve the outer layers.
This stuff contains 13-17% Methyl Ethyl Ketone, 70-80% Acetone (dimethyl ketone), 5-10% cyclohexanone, and negligible amounts of other nasty chemicals.
Open the can of (purple) primer. If it's the first time it's been opened, you might need a really big guy or a pipe wrench to break the seal. Most of the time, the swab is built right into the top.
Pull out the applicator, which is attached to the lid, and dab it against the side of the can to let the excess run out. This stuff runs like water and stains EVERYTHING. It will probably saturate the top of the can.
Cover each surface to be welded on both parts thoroughly. Just be careful about runs. If you are doing tons of fittings, you can go ahead and prime everything, it's perfectly fine to prime parts ahead of time, so long as they don't get dirty before cementing.
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5
Nov 1, 2007. 5:42 PMnerfer192
says:
haha mythbusters say that
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4
Nov 9, 2008. 2:33 PMDYLEGO
says:
WARNING: SCIENCE CONTENT duh duh duh duh duh duh duuuuuuuuuuuhhhhhhhh
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7
Jan 17, 2009. 10:30 PMDerin
says:
duh
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4
Jan 19, 2009. 6:13 PMDYLEGO
says:
duh
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7
Feb 15, 2009. 7:29 AMDerin
says:
duh
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4
Mar 10, 2009. 8:12 AMwiebevandomburg.hotmail.com
says:
duh
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7
Apr 23, 2009. 2:29 AMDerin
says:
duh
Reply
Feb 21, 2009. 8:13 PMsaturnv7890
says:
Should I let the primer dry? Also, bang the can's top down onto somthing hard, it'll break the seal quite nicely.
Reply
4
Mar 29, 2009. 3:25 PMqballcat
says:
NEVER LET THE PRIMER DRY!! sry but that would make your glue not adhere at all and it would go boom ><
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