Materials/Tools Needed:
Driver
Screw
Cordless Drill
Disc Sander (Techshop!)
Metal File
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1) slot the screw head with a Dremel and cutoff wheel.
2) Get a product called Screw Medic (basically emery dust in oil - like valve grinding compound). Put a little on the driver tip, gives more traction.
3) Squirt Rem Oil or Pblaster or WD40 on the screw head. Wait a moment. put the driver in the head and tap sharply with a hammer on top of the head. Then, TIGHTEN the screw slightly to break loose and then loosen.
4) Look for "anti-camout" bits from those tool-store-in-a-trucks. These have teeth cut in them so they tend to stay in as you extract the screw.
Check Robertson screws on Google to see their many advantages.
I have a set of three Robertson screw drivers that have been used for over 50 years and still hold the screw securely in any position. The tips show no signs of wear. Phillips screwdrivers self destruct in a relatively short time.
They are ideal for use in power screw drivers or drills. One hand is always free as there is no need to hold the screw.
They have never damaged a screw head.
They are colour coded, red green and black for the original three sizes of head recesses available. There are now other sizes each having its own colour code.
Because it was so successful, it became the de facto standard, even in applications where the cam out feature is undesirable.
These days, torq limiting in maintenance is almost always signaled by a regular/single-slot screw. Those are heck to put in during manufacture but you really have to work at them to over tighten them.
The days of phillips head are clearly numbered. Despite the cost, I have begun to go out of my way to buy square or torx head screws in my own work simply because they are so much easy to work with and way more reliable to remove. I believe everyone should try the new styles out if they haven't already.
Since you're only removing a couple of millimeters (1/16") of material you don't really need a one-meter/one-yard in diameter stationary sander. ;-)
If you do find yourself with a stripped screw like the one in the first photo, a square drive bit usually a #2 will actually fit snugly because when the phillips strips out, it leaves a diamond shaped or square hole.
I am ashamed to say I never thought of that until one day I accidentally chucked a square bit while removing a stripped phillips and it came right out. *Sigh* Hate to think how many man hours I blew over the years not realizing that.
http://www.harborfreight.com/phillips-2-insert-bit-90843.html
i dont think that small amount of sanding/grinding/whatver you wish to call it would have affected the tempering
That's what she said.
I wont buy fasteners other than square or metric hex drive for my personal use. IMO its a shame that torx didnt get more use on fasteners since its the most superior one.