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Applying wax to fabric gives it water resistant and hard wearing properties. Whether a backpack or work clothes, a waxed finish to your fabric is a wise choice for those that like to get a little messy in life.

As great as waxed fabric is, it's not for all items. Heavy cotton like denim and canvas are great for waxing, as are heavy cotton/synthetic blends; These fabrics are typically found in items like backpacks, aprons, pants, and jackets. Your leather dancing pants and polyester shirt, not so great for waxing.

Being a natural finish, all waxed fabrics will eventually fade and need to be reapplied. Luckily applying wax to fabric is easy, and I'll show you how!

Let's wax!

Step 1: Tools + Materials

There's not much you need to wax (or re-wax) your fabric, but you will need a special wax that's designed for fabrics.

You probably have most of this stuff at home, and the bar of wax lasts a long time and is good for lots of wax applications.

Step 2: Clean Your Fabric

Before applying any wax your fabric should be clean and free from dust and debris. In my case I am waxing my work apron, which has seen lots of use and needed to be brushed, blasted with compressed air, and cleaned with the hose and detergent and then scrubbed again before it was ready.

For large items like this I find it easiest to work outside, since it can get messy.

Using the hose, laundry detergent, and a stiff brush I scrubbed the fabric to remove any debris and residual wax. Getting down an homogenous surface of the base fabric will result in a more even application of wax.

If you wash your fabric make sure it's completely dry before moving on to any wax application. Wringing the fabric with my hands to remove water, I left my apron out in the sun for a few hours until it was dry.

Step 3: Wax

I used Fjallraven fabric wax, which is meant for their G-1000 line of semi-synthetic heavy garments. It's a hard bar of wax that has a neutral odor.

Thought any type of fabric wax can be used on almost any fabric, this technique works best of thicker fabrics like heavy denim and other similar types of fabric.

Step 4: Apply Wax

Lie your fabric on a flat and sturdy surface. Rub the wax into the fabric with a firm scrubbing motion, you should be able to clearly see where the wax was applied to the fabric.

Set the hair dryer to the high setting and wave it over the fabric to heat up the waxed area. Keep the hair dryer a few inches off the fabric to prevent overheating and move the hair dryer in a circular motion.

I find it easiest to work in small patches, heating to melt the wax completely before moving on to the next area. Pay special attention to seams and other areas that might require an additional application of wax.

Step 5: Wax On!

After the fabric has been waxed and cooled, examine to see if you missed any areas and if a second waxing is required.

Waxed fabrics to lose their waxed finish with use, so keep an eye on your finish and apply more wax as you need. I wax my apron about once a year to help prolong it's life and keep it from absorbing any spills.


Have you waxed your own fabric based on this Instructable? I want to see it!
Share a picture of your waxed fabric in the comments below and get a free Pro Membership!

<p>Didn't know it was that simple!! I'll have to give it a try soon :)</p>
<p>I waxed leather in that way! My <a href="https://www.instructables.com/id/Leather-and-Waxed-Cotton-Motorcycle-Saddlebag/" rel="nofollow">saddlebag</a> is now waterproof.</p>
Nice work. If you're interested, I went over my waxed leather with coconut oil and it turned out awesome. Softer and very waterproof.
<p>Now <em>this </em>is a great application for waxing cloth. I had a similar bike, and love the classic look ('83 Shadow 500).</p><p>Thanks for sharing a picture of your waxed bag, enjoy the Pro Membership!</p>
Very cool. I am hard on my work clothes so I'll be doing it. Thanks.
<p>or just use </p><h3>Nikwax Fabric and Leather Proof</h3>
<p>hi, I'm looking to try this for a work apron, ut how do you clean it afterwards, like in the washer? Obviously cold wash? </p><p>Being a server this seems great but the apron could get smelly after time. </p>
<p>For my shop apron I only clean it once a year and reapply the wax. For a food apron I think the same could apply, but your mileage may vary.</p><p>Try light applications of wax and washing with cold water by hand. The wax should last a few cycles. Good luck!</p>
<p>Would this process become sticky if left in a hot vehicle? Or exposed to a good deal of heat, like setting in the sun?</p>
<p>If you don't use too much, the wax will impregnate the cotton and won't be sticky at all. </p>
Thank you! I have a waxed cotton hat from Ireland that I've been using as a rain hat for 15+ years. It's still pretty waxy in some places, but where it touches my forehead and parts of the brim are about back to plain cotton. I bought their wax (much softer than your bar) and rewaxed, but they didn't give instructions - nothing about heating it to incorporate the wax. So now it's cotton with wax on. I'll use your instructions, and expect to get my lovely hat back as good as new!
<p>Great! Please share a picture when you're done.</p>
<p>I use this method to waterproof a medieval style canvas tent for camping at SCA events. I never thought to use this for aprons though great idea. </p>
<p>This is excellent! I have a large canvas dropcloth I want to cut and stitch into a knife roll and wanted to apply a waxed finish to it, and now I know how. Do you think beeswax in bar form would work? I have a few pounds of it around, as I cut off chunks of it and use it to melt and wax the top bars of my beehive frames. It's pretty hard wax, but I'm not sure how much harder fabric wax is. </p>
<p>This wax bar is just 65% paraffin and 35% beeswax, so I am pretty sure you would be able to figure out how to make something work. See if there is a proprietary process, or if you just mix them together. There was an 'ibble on Paste Wax yesterday... </p>
Good, useful and simple instruct able
Hi there i own a waterproof bodysuit trousers and jacket and usually buy a bottle of spray chemical to waterproof them as I use for fishing mainly to keep me dry against the weather elements is there a way to use your option either by melting and mixing with a chemical or water to make my own spray instead as costs a fortune to buy every 3 months around &pound;15-20....thankyou.
<p>Hi! <br>I LOOOVE waxed cotton and I love the apron you have. <br>I manage a makerspace and we do a lot of &quot;dirty&quot; work. Some is metal work. Read sparks and heat. Does waxing make your cotton more flammable? I mean... Does one become a &quot;giant candle&quot;? hahaha<br>This is a real question - not a critique - Again, I love waxed cotton, and I think your instructable is awesome - thanks for sharing :)</p>
<p>This might work for wood too!</p>
Beeswax is one of my favorite wood finishes for items that will not see hard use. It's amazing on rifles stocks.
You can also dissolve granulated wax in naphtha and apply with a brush. Did this to a canvas roof I made for my hammoc and it worked great! After applying I folded it neatly and tightly and placed in a black garbage bag in the sun, which allowed the mixture to penetrate more deeply than the initial brush application allowed for. The next day I let it dry out on a clothesline in the sun. Don't forget to beware of flames when wearing waxed anything.
After a piece of clothing has been waxed how do you clean it?
<p>Have you tried the liquid wax used in a spray bottle.</p>
<p>I would think that soft wax would work into tight corners and crevices better. I have an old canvas ammo bag that I want to wax. I used it as a diaper bag when my boys were babies and could never part with it. It might last forever even without waxing it.</p>
I did this with my 20 year old army BDU coat. Worked like a champ and made it feel like new. But, I used gulf wax for canning. Got it at the grocery store.

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