Although wireless is simpler for a lot of people, due to multimedia sharing, bandwidth on my home network and my slight paranoia about wireless security, I really wanted to use a hard wired solution for home networking.
Having a wired network allows me to have a private, high speed, network at home for Internet access, file sharing, media streaming, online gaming (console or PC), IP security cameras, or any other use of standard ethernet type wiring.
Lets get to it with considerations and planning!
Having a wired network allows me to have a private, high speed, network at home for Internet access, file sharing, media streaming, online gaming (console or PC), IP security cameras, or any other use of standard ethernet type wiring.
Lets get to it with considerations and planning!
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Signing UpStep 1: Initial Considerations and Planning
There are certain design considerations that need to be addressed based on your needs. I'll discuss this before materials because these questions will affect quantities, tools and materials needed.
1. Which room/s do I want wired?
- I have a 2 bedroom condo so I knew I wanted both bedrooms wired. I also have a TV alcove where my cable TV is so that seemed like a good location to wire as well for things like video game consoles. I have cable TV in each of these locations so it seemed logical to treat the network the same way.
2. How many ports do I want in each location?
- With a multiple game consoles and network enabled Blu-Ray player connected to my TV, I knew I wanted at least 3 connections behind my TV. Since the wall plates come in 1, 2, 4, and 6 jack configurations (for single gang), I just went with 4. Why run one cable when its nearly as easy to run 4, right? Rather than vary the number, I just ran 4 drops to each location to provide maximum flexibility with out the need for local (in-room) switches. 3 locations with 4 ports each, 12 ports total.
3. What is a good location for distribution?
- For me the logical location was my laundry room. My cable TV already comes into this room and gets split to each room. It is important to note that my internet comes into the house (over the cable) here too so if I move my cable modem here, it will be able to supply internet access to the entire network. Another thing to consider is the amount of space needed to mount a shelf to hold the network equipment.
4. What path should the cables take?
- This is probably the most difficult consideration. For me, my condo is on the 2nd (top) floor and have access to my attic. My cable TV is distributed through the attic so it seemed like a good solution to run my home network through there as well. For single floor homes with a basement, the basement may be the best path. For multi-story homes you may have to be creative. Outside may be an option or through an old laundry chute. I will not address the specifics of all the possibilities, just my own circumstances. The other consideration with cable path is cable length. The max cable length for up to gigabit speeds over copper UTP cabling is 100 meters (~300 feet). This should provide plenty of flexibility for most home applications but it is good to be aware of this limit.
5. What network speed do I need?
- This will mainly play a part in what kind of switch to get. 10mbps is still faster than most everyones home internet connection, so if you are just surfing a 10 megabit switch will suffice just fine. You can probably pick up one really cheap at a used computer store or maybe even free. You might consider 100mbps if you are planning on sharing multimedia over your network. 100 megabit switches are reasonably priced and easy to come by. Gigabit is probably overkill in most situations but if you must have the fastest, go with it. You will also likely want to use Cat-6 in this case as well. Beware, gigabit switches more than 8 ports climb in price very quickly.
Next up, tools and materials!
1. Which room/s do I want wired?
- I have a 2 bedroom condo so I knew I wanted both bedrooms wired. I also have a TV alcove where my cable TV is so that seemed like a good location to wire as well for things like video game consoles. I have cable TV in each of these locations so it seemed logical to treat the network the same way.
2. How many ports do I want in each location?
- With a multiple game consoles and network enabled Blu-Ray player connected to my TV, I knew I wanted at least 3 connections behind my TV. Since the wall plates come in 1, 2, 4, and 6 jack configurations (for single gang), I just went with 4. Why run one cable when its nearly as easy to run 4, right? Rather than vary the number, I just ran 4 drops to each location to provide maximum flexibility with out the need for local (in-room) switches. 3 locations with 4 ports each, 12 ports total.
3. What is a good location for distribution?
- For me the logical location was my laundry room. My cable TV already comes into this room and gets split to each room. It is important to note that my internet comes into the house (over the cable) here too so if I move my cable modem here, it will be able to supply internet access to the entire network. Another thing to consider is the amount of space needed to mount a shelf to hold the network equipment.
4. What path should the cables take?
- This is probably the most difficult consideration. For me, my condo is on the 2nd (top) floor and have access to my attic. My cable TV is distributed through the attic so it seemed like a good solution to run my home network through there as well. For single floor homes with a basement, the basement may be the best path. For multi-story homes you may have to be creative. Outside may be an option or through an old laundry chute. I will not address the specifics of all the possibilities, just my own circumstances. The other consideration with cable path is cable length. The max cable length for up to gigabit speeds over copper UTP cabling is 100 meters (~300 feet). This should provide plenty of flexibility for most home applications but it is good to be aware of this limit.
5. What network speed do I need?
- This will mainly play a part in what kind of switch to get. 10mbps is still faster than most everyones home internet connection, so if you are just surfing a 10 megabit switch will suffice just fine. You can probably pick up one really cheap at a used computer store or maybe even free. You might consider 100mbps if you are planning on sharing multimedia over your network. 100 megabit switches are reasonably priced and easy to come by. Gigabit is probably overkill in most situations but if you must have the fastest, go with it. You will also likely want to use Cat-6 in this case as well. Beware, gigabit switches more than 8 ports climb in price very quickly.
Next up, tools and materials!
![D-Link Wireless Router DIR-628 Setup [Without CD]](http://www.instructables.com/files/deriv/FDQ/ZBHK/GIYWWBMF/FDQZBHKGIYWWBMF.SQUARE.jpg)
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Thank you for posting this valuble instructable for assisting others and I. This is a really good and rewarding project.
What do you think?
Sure there are cost and convenience trade offs and I think I address them very well. Some people like to "break walls" and have a built in solution.
About your comment "that's what firewalls are for", you might want to brush up on your understanding about what firewalls do. Firewalls do not protect wireless. Firewalls are like a gate to your network - but if you use wireless the gate kinda doesn't work because your traffic flies through the air. Yes there are security methods to protect wireless communications, and yes they've improved since I originally wrote the article. But you still never achieve the same security you would with a wired network.
Thanks for reading! Hopefully I've made it more clear.
(Some people have commented on the lack of prices, but I would expect prices to change, anyway, so I really don't think that's a big deal. Besides, this documenting the author's project, and if he got something free, then he got it free. I don't see the issue there.)
We figure that in short order, competitive ISP vendors will offer (ala Hulu) will run the TV and all the devices that are currently entering each home - like - iPad and wireless ways of watching anything that traditional TV/Cable once ruled. The telephone is almost a hang-nail bundle now because it is digital and we have consumer choices outside cable company bundling. With Vonage, Magic Jack, Skype, etc - phones will probably be dropped in bundle choices and just be part of ISP services?
Verizon has changed downwards to 'digital' phone bundle, and we like having a land line. With FiOs we enjoy a highly effective WiFi environment with the old wiring. I promised the CAT-6 will make it even better.
THE QUESTION came up with my wife when she asked me - as I had said to her that the old CAT-3 defeats high speed price tiers after enters the old wiring in the house. I told her my readings indicated we were around 10Mbps once the service hit our house wiring regardless of how fancy the box to the house and pay tier promised. Thus the upgrade is timely now to CAT-6.
If all we were getting was the low speed high speed - WHY were we paying for higher priced, 25Mbps 'faster' tier selections all this time?! In summery, if the house has old wiring, what good is it for a consumer to pay for the highest speed FiOS offers when the CAT-3 wiring does not allow it to do it's thing?
When we are finished converting - CAT-6 should up our bang for less buck if we switch to lower tier pricing? We have good speed and wireless and wired interaction with our computers and devices with the CAT-3.
Should we change our package for the lower speed price selection from our ISP with the CAT-6, and not blink in the 'speed' if we pick the Thanks ahead of time for helping weed out fact vs. fiction vs. wallet!
Also to note, the longest run can not be more than 100 meters without signal loss.
I have one question though, Is there any other cable(s) that I should consider running now that I will be cutting into the walls? I have thought of Speaker Wire but not really sure it would be beneficial?
I have a plan to add CCTV at some stage but with (my limited) knowledge, I beleive I can use the CAT 6 for that purpose so.. no need that I am aware of for specific CCTV cable?
The house is 3 story so I want to do this once in] my lifetime!
IPcams can have better resolution and integrated into a VOIP pabx to allow camera attached to door stations etc
Simplest approach is simply find a good central post build accessible spot and run mainlines to there, and then hub/splitter the network and coax lines to everywhere you want em. This gives you an all purpose point away from the main panel to deal with your low voltage stuff and also allows you to expand later if needed, i.e. I am not finishing my basement immediately, but when I do I will be adding 3 more coax/net cable panels to accommodate my lab, another bedroom and the poker/tv area.
So really unless you are planning to add a projector at some point (then you need to run composite,component and hdmi cables through the celing and receiver wall to keep it clean) then you really only need to do net/coax/speaker.
I have some computer that used to be gigabit, then I switched them to another router that was 100 mbps. The difference was easy to spot, for sure. The same ISP in both cases.
Gigabit equipment will help you if you're transferring a large amount of files or pulling stuff simultaneously of NAS drives.
Please make the article you write as informative as it is instructive. I find incomplete information frustrating.
don't mess with it and it won't break. It appears to have been a PICNIC (look it up)
situation.
Seriously though, its a linux box, they are designed to just carry on running without interference. Once setup, should be fine. Ours appears to be amazing now it's stable
Avoid the buffalo terrastation though, awful interface.
1) I rented an old house and just replacing a short run of old wire (tired ends) made a big difference on a dial up connection.
2) CAT 5 allowed a customer to easily run multiple phones and fax machines for his office off a single cable.
3) Wireless is great for many applications, but it a real loser during power outages, which some areas experience several times a year.
Since I knew nothing about such installations, I started researching before doing a major installation on a remodel. It soon became apparent the research was well worthwhile. Installing the CAT 5 line required more care than I might, otherwise have given. For example (extreme parroting follows):
1) When securing the wire, use staples that protect the wire against nicking and crimping (e.g., plastic coatings to cushion between the staple and wire) or otherwise take care not to overly compress the wire (again, to avoid nicking or otherwise damaging the conductors).
2) Make sweeping turns, do not make sharp turns, which may damage the wire and reduce it’s capacity.
3) Leave service loops
4) When pulling the wire, remember that the wire being pulled can cause heat build up in spots, such as at areas where holes were drilled in rafters and such, on a previously pulled wire. As such, don’t try to pull too many wires through a single hole.
5) Use good wire stripers. Nicking the wire reduces its gauge size at the nick, reducing its load capacity at that point, as well as weakening it and making it more susceptible to breakage.
6) Always loop clockwise on screws so that tightening the screw pulls the wire in, rather than pushing it out, such as a counter clockwise loop would do when tightening.
7) Consider picking up some “deox” type product from an electrical or electronic sales outlet. This can cut down on oxidation, which would compromise the connection quality, and to limit electrolysis, which would destroy the junction when dissimilar metals are joined.
8) Avoid (as elsewhere noted) running other systems immediately parallel to the wire runs to avoid cross talk by induction.
When you have to drill through structural material, such as floor supports and such, don’t place your holes near the edges of the lumber. Doing so weakens the board far more than when the hole is made more to the center.
I'm not sure I follow what you mean here. All the network wiring in the house has to be connected to a switch or router. Both of those devices require power. If you loose power, you loose connectivity. Having wireless available during a power loss situation by using a backup generator/UPS would be a great way to help people access the internet (you helping your neighbors). It's up to you if this is a good idea.
Though any wireless system is toast in a power outage (we experience ten to fourteen a year in the Northwet, where trees don't have to root deep and wind takes them out, along with power lines), telephone companies provide power to phone lines independent of electric utilities. As a result, phone lines are often operational when there is no AC current to the house.
Of course, UPS are limited and must be recharged, if taxed for any significant time or by a significant load. Regardless, they would do nothing for a phone line, since, as noted, the phone companies supply that power (aside from home equipment dependent on AC, such as message recorders, cordless phones and so forth).
Generators solve problems of supplying power, but a whole house generator can cost as much as three or four thousand a month to operate. Even small generators can be expensive, such as if you had to run it full time to provide power for phones and such. A very small portion of the population can afford such systems