No gas, no oil and almost silent. 72 Volts, 70mph of pure fun. This is how I built an electric motorcycle.
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Signing UpStep 1: Why and how
This project took about 3 months of research and development (not counting waiting for parts to come in or help from a friend with the welding). All in all, it cost about $3000 to buy and build. This may take a long time to pay off in gas savings, but if you add the fun of building and all of the environmental benefits, it was well worth the effort. With a top speed of over 70 mph and 10 miles per charge, this vehicle is perfect for me. The following instructable will not give you exact step by step instructions, but if you have some mechanical skills and welding ability you should be okay. A little knowledge of motorcycle maintenance wouldn't hurt, too. However, I just read the user's manual and learned as I went.











































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How many HP is the motor?
Top speed?
http://25.media.tumblr.com/tumblr_m45g8hZaBS1qkbchho1_1280.jpg
Thanks!
..
This is a great write-up on how to register your bike.
Cheers!
- Charles
Thanks
gdoherty0@gmail.com
congrats man, u done a great job.
i'm totally impressed & wanna take u as my inspiration because from many years i'm planning to do such model but unfortunately i dint find a way to start it.
after knowing reading ur process, i'm happy to tell u that even i'm going to start like ur model & procedure but 1 change in it.
so, can u help me out in this?
reply to-nittingautam@gmail.com
Wait a minute... is this kim dotcom?
The Second Law of thermodynamics essentially says that energy exhibits entropy. It moves away form its source. In machine terms, you have to add energy to get more work, and the ratio of energy to work will never equal 100% due to energy expanding away from its source.
Solar pannels are a good source of energy used to get work but all other forms of "self recharging" through a mechanical means would require work and energy of a greater amount that it would produce.
Is there any possible of regenerating in E-bike.
but still, we both agree it's not going to create perpetual motion.
magnetos work so well with 'those old dirt bikes' because a gas engine creates tons of energy, much more than needed to get you down the road.
off course, you could always peddal :) lol
If you want to increase range a little more, additional methods include:
- use a brushless motor
- get the best batteries you can. Absorbed glass mat (AGM) aren't quite the pinnacle, but they can't leak and some have good capacities
- consider small, flexible solar panels that can conform to top-facing surfaces like top of fuel tank, ducktail etc. Trickle-charge a little while parked!
- consider these little buggers: http://www.dealextreme.com/p/wind-powered-led-light-for-vehicles-2-pack-5172
Might seem silly, but my idea was to place these tiny wind generators in fairing gaps (where airflow to voltage controller etc would not be affected).
So maybe 6 or 8 of these little guys, (of course you removed the leds) to divert the energy produced into an auxiliary channel of the charging circuit.
It could work!
...but click the link provided ^
These are tiny, lightweight plastic items that represent NO parasitic loss. They're designed for bicycle or car exterior and as they spin, generate something like 1V (if that) to illuminate one LED.
If the air is passing through a vent anyway, why not use it?
By themselves, the little wind powered LEDs *do* have a degree of inefficiency, as they don't use high quality bearings etc. Yes, there is some friction.
In the context of the overall project though, you're getting a bit of electricity for what? Negligible wind resistance.
Using your argument, you'd also oppose the use of a capacitor to store static electricity from the riders body. Well, the cap *weighs* something doesn't it? lol
Solar cells small enough to not effect the shape of the vehicle are not powerful enough to drive it.
Because of losses in each step of transformation, of wind energy to electric energy to chemical energy (battery) to electric energy to moving energy again, and losses in storage. It is clear that no equipment attached to moving vehicle, and driven by it´s movement, will ever cause it to go faster or further. If it could, we'd have solved humankind's energy problems.
Trickle-charge - anybody heard of that concept?
@zack247: Yes, ancillaries circuit or trickle back into the speed controller, maybe take 1-2% load off the main batteries. Or how about a super-capacitor? Why not charge that for an extra speed burst?
About 5 years ago, a South African solar company launched a new type of solar film. Supposedly, it could conform to almost any shape. Why not use something like that on a vehicle? Some electric/hybrid concept cars have solar panels on the roof.
Those little solar powered window-mount ventilator fans have been around 10+ years and they seem to work.
Personally, I'd be happy to park my vehicle outside during the day to help *offset* the discharge from my morning commute. Even if it means 1 hour less recharging at home, that's money saved, is it not?
Anyways, about the wind turbines, these types of "troll physics" drives my ocd crazy. Not to sound like an attack, but honestly the net result will be negative installing that product.
Even if your goal is to ease the use of your batteries, that will be impossible to achieve. The total drag and added weight (however minuscule) will never be more efficient then direct wiring to the battery (solar setup in a 0 drag manner and performing a weight reduction of the bike would though!). The batteries will have to work harder to get you to where you want to go (even a tiny bit harder still counts as work)
Conservation of energy will always cause on board wind systems to fail.
After all, the human form needs a fairing help reduce drag. The fairing weighs something. So do away with both.
Win-win.
As my first comment alluded, I grew out of motorcycles over 20 years ago. I have no desire to reprise that chapter of my life.
What I offered are suggestions. They need not be taken literally. They might get some people thinking "outside the box" and I reckon that can only be a good thing.
After all, it's through experimentation, and often quite by accident, that new things are discovered or invented.
The thing is, as I pointed out in the last paragraph, that because of losses in energy conversions wind turbines will cause more drag than the power they create to "assist in driving the motorcycle" so the net effect would be that they'd slow the motorcycle down.
Solar cells need to be about 10 cm on each side to make 1 watt each hour. (like these super solar cells at amazon http://www.amazon.com/Super-Solar-Cells-0-5V-2-pk/dp/B002MAYDZ4). Each battery can store almost 500 watt-hours (when new), and there are six of them making the total almost 3000 watt-hours. The motorcycle goes 10 miles per charge, 300 watt-hours per mile (which is low if you ask me, because 1 horsepower is calculated as over 700 watts and you certainly need more than 1 horsepower to reach 70 mph). If you have very sunny days and daylight for 16 hours each day it would take almost 190 days to fully charge the batteries using 4 of the cells from amazon. Or for 8 hour charge (a working day) you could drive the motorcycle for 130 feet, about the length of a 1 and a half basketball courts.
As to your comprehension of the English written word? Sorry.
Perhaps you should look up definitions of the words "offset" and "recovery" because in part, that's what my original post suggested.
please click link, you will love it. i did
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bkcn8ZkvKKc&feature=results_main&playnext=1&list=PL5F22FE96F32E4208
Using "regenerative braking" (as already used in current hibrid cars) could add a useful bit of charge to the batteries when you want to slow down (especially if it's from 70 mph!)
I'd like to build a battery motor-bike but, sadly, my SWMBO (She Who Must Be Obeyed) has a serious aversion to motorised 2-wheeled vehicles ( a friend's husband was wiped out on one, driving thru town on the way to work one morning) and she'll never let me go back to my "Bol D'Or Honda 500" days.
Otherwise, I'd give this 'ible a go!
The battery dimensions/positions together with the bike's own frame restrictions, toward the ultimate goal of maximum performance, must have been a maddening set of compromises to make.
Knowing what you do now, after the bike's been made, would you have chosen a bike model other than this one? In retrospect, do you think you nailed it, or would a slightly different cage design have allowed you to opt for the higher amp batteries you wanted?
have you ever thought about making side panels for "the engine compartment" to hide the batteries altogether? some carbon fiber would look slick there.
i'd like to build a lightweight & aero 1 seater sandrail style buggy, but can't find the COMPLETE information on how many watts per pound are needed for a given speed. everything i find ends in a different measure eg. kilojoules, watts 7 horsepower etc. it's really frustrating.
as i've seen several motorycle designs that can do 55mph & 50 miles with as little as 4x 12v batteries, i would think a low, narrow & light buggy that has a similar weight & drag should be able to do better than that with 8 x 12v batteries.
if anyone knows of a COMPLETE calculator or set of formulas for designing EVs, please do share as i can't find the info anywhere with plain english searches anyways.
Series Connection
6 x 12 = 72 V
72V x 100A = 7.2kW (or ~10 HP)
Designing a motor/controller combination to handle this voltage and current range is pretty easy and relatively inexpensive. There are MANY currently available.
Parallel Connection
1 x 12 = 12 V
12V X 600A = 7.2kW (or ~10 HP)
Although a DC-DC converter can be designed to convert 12V 600A to 72V 100A, it will add significant cost and weight, and will reduce efficiency of the overall system.
A motor could be designed to use 12V 600A, but it too would be less efficient because...
Resistive losses are a function of I*I*R, so as current increases resistive losses go up FAST. The lower you can keep the current, the better. That is one reason why AC power is transmitted over the grid at very high voltages and then stepped down locally.
So I will be opening my gas tank with non-sparking means, like a drill, hand tools, and a metal shears (like big pliers but with stubby scissors at the end). Then once I get the whole thing open, i can let it air out for a few days - or toss a match in to speed up the process.
How did you determine your gearing ratio for the motor?
one word for you..
WOW..
Nice freaking job! WOW!
How does it perform off the line? I wouldn't expect it to be like Killacycle, but not being run over when lane-splitting at the traffic lights would be nice hahaha.
How's this thing doing in the cold (like -20 degrees celsius)?
What batteries would you reccomend for a vehicle that should be able to drive in such temperatures?
Thanks in advance!
and your motorcyle was great
Sorry about the late reply, been away from the site for awhile.
"The wheel you spoke of is simply called a water wheel, though there might be another (more proper) term.
but yeah, the type of engine you spoke of originally has actually been produced, and soon is supposed to be commercially made, although it's actually a pneumatic engine that refills it's tanks when plugged in. :D sounds pretty sweet to me
You would need an external source of energy input into the system while driving.
It would be possible with large scale technology similar to the proximity charging devices we have recently developed for small electronics. But the cost to create such tech on a large enough scale to charge while on roadways is not feasible at this time.
Could you provide me a link to some documentation that says an alternator has better low RPM efficiency? My research in wind turbines suggested that at best, alternators and generators have the same efficiency at low speeds, and most seemed to agree that generators are better at low RPM.
A transistor controlled ground is one more part, and a much cheaper, easier, smaller and lighter one to install than an alternator. I suspect it would also be difficult to find an alternator that can output this kind of voltage. Many have a fixed regulator that won't allow excess voltage in the event that the computer controlled one malfunctions and full-fields, and even one without that protection probably isn't built to output this voltage and may fail prematurely. Even on a car where the alternator is typically driven at approximately 3-5 times faster than the crankshaft, the voltage will drop to below the desired charge voltage with only a few amps drawn at idle 500-1100 RPM (1500 to 5500 RPM at the alternator). So that alternator designed to output 12 or 24 volts would have to be geared up considerably, further adding weight and frictional losses from the gears. An additional load on the motor would require more power from the motor to spin it up to speed. Try spinning one by hand, the rotational mass alone would take considerable power to get moving, especially with the gearing required to spin it fast enough to make this high a voltage.
Also, regenerative charging using a brushless will most likely require a weird bridge rectifier (3 phase+) with a negative feedback loop.
For anyone really interested in converting a cycle, check out http://www.21wheels.com/elninja.html
The "EL Ninja" plans are actually pretty useful and there are some other handy resources on that site as well.
I have read about filling the tank with water before welding can't confirm if that is practical/safe.
i mean the real ones.....they dispose it when it have reached its flying hours....then may be we can use it...its really heavy...but it has lots of juice in it....i just forgot their voltage and amperage......its been a long time since i have cleaned one when i was a trainee.....
so...what do you think??
Thankz
I am just beginner in this research to build electric motorcycle and a self rechargeable if support met our our aims and ambition.My Malang Jatta a Gambian.I find it very difficult to my mine till now searching for fund and additional research i made through library and in internet.I need your advance and support.
From Malang Jatta (Dipl.Electrical Engineer)
I hope to hear from you.
"Can I pull a wheelie on this bike?"
Also the ible is pretty cool
http://www.batteryuniversity.com/parttwo-35.htm
W / V = A or 1000w / 36v = ~27Amps
your batteries can supply 1 amp @ 12v for 3.5 hours. Since they are in series, you don't get any more MAh out of them, just volts. So electrically speaking, your battery pack can supply:
1A @ 36v for 3.5 Hours (210 Min)
2A @ 36V for 1.75 Hours (105 Min)
4A @ 36V for .87 Hours (52 Min)
8A @ 36v for .43 Hours (25 Min)
16A @ 36V for .21 Hours (12 Min)
32A @ 36v for .10 Hours (6 Min)
All values are approximate. Also, amps go up and down depending on load (more weight == more load) so this will also be a factor.
Also, on a bike, you can pedal to get up to speed and use the motor to just keep you rolling--a lot less energy used.
You could rewire one into either star or delta config (or both using a switching circuit to get the best efficiency depending on your speed), bolt it to your hubs, and recharge you batteries during the commute.
Smart-drive rewire
Immediate problems I can think of are:
A) Power generated from braking needs to be moderated and limited to the charge rate of batteries;
B) Regenerative braking torque varies with speed, and will need to be matched/merged with traditional brakes as a failsafe and to provide an acceptable braking response at all speeds.
Thoughts?
For all interested in electric motorcycle conversions I offer a good links:
www.elmoto.net- a forum for fans and people working on electric motorcycle conversions
www.therenewableyou.com- a resource for different types of renewable projects, including electric motorcycle conversions. This site aims to provide all the information needed to do your own renewable projects. Stryker's bike has its own page on this site, as well as notes concerning the conversion of a 1982 KZ550 to a 48V Ebike. The notes on everything from battery type, motor, range estimates, ect are avaliable here
Loud pipes are a great lifesaving safety device. Also, I loved reving my engine and dround out the crappy noise that passes as music. I'd probably still laugh at the guy for making an imitation Harley noise. Most Harley owners would be offended. Play another engine....Perhaps the sound the rice-racer cars with the oversized exhaust (it kinda sounds like the muffler broke off....lol
I have met the yuppies who wear helments with earphones and microphones. They aren't bikers. They are riders with issues they are trying to show they can handle a bike like a man....such wankers
Has anyone ever seen those videos of India (etc) where the roads are dominated by scooters and motorcycles, it's amazing to see the intersections - I think it's more about looking out for one-another and with more and more driver distractions (on BOTH vehicles) it's really hard for all involved.
Perendev's are a valid design basis. It's a matter of finding an efficient balance of output vs. cost of replacing/recharging magnets. Btw, magnets can be recharged with magnets. There's nothing making it impossible to reallign the atoms over and over. Feasably, if one had a multi stage system where one wheel was working as the Perendev does while the others were aligned with the polarities reversed so as to reallign the atoms in their magnets, you could have a system that degraded much more slowly by switching which wheels are being in a cycle. This does enlarge the system, but it has dynamic potential. (Infinite, no, but a starting point towards a viable system, perhaps.)
Just because it doesn't create infinite energy doesn't mean it doesn't work. Neither does any other energy source.
The goal is not to create infinite energy, it is to create efficient energy.
I don't disagree with you that Perendev's as they are are not entirely viable, but then neither was the original light bulb. Gotta start somewhere. ;-D
See it at:
http://web.mac.com/benhdvideoguy/iWeb/cycle/Welcome.html
or
http://www.evalbum.com/1133
Also check out:
http://www.ecomodder.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10
and
http://www.diyelectriccar.com/forums/
I'm still working on my own e-bike conversion projects, which don't yet have enough detail to warrant an instructable, but you can see what I have posted so far at http://opporknockitytunes.blogspot.com . I am trying to build as exclusively from recycled items and parts as I can, though there are some things I'm finding I have to use new due to poor availability as sets of old items (like N50 motor magnets for converting cieling fan motors into hub motors, etc). The not-yet-posted most recent work includes a custom-designed analog-based motor controller.
Another controller being designed is the Open Source Motor Controller project, at http://www.robotpower.com/products/osmc_info.html which could be adapted to our EV purposes.
here is my equation:
Motorcycle + stupid rider = certain death
Motorcycle + Noise + Riding at night = possible death
Motorcycle + intelligent rider â death
Lithium Polymer= Maserati...
Lithium Ion = Porsche
SLA = Civic
on the other hand, a car battery is that beat-up screaming metal deathtrap of a chevy scottsdale in your great-uncle's back-yard that you've never actually seen running, but have heard it runs.
If you can afford them, LIon or LiPoly would be amazing (see electric motorcycle dragster) but cost is just too much right now unless you're going for ridiculous performance.
Assuming that balance on a pedal bicycle is broadly similar to that of a motorcycle at low speeds, the gyroscopic forces have been demonstrated by counter rotating wheels to be irrelevant to stability. Balance is achieved by body positioning, which is why we have to learn how to ride. If gyroscopic forces were significant at low speeds, there would be never be any need to learn how to balance except for starting. Skilled cyclists and motorcyclists on trials machines can 'track-stand' without any forward motion. Clearly, on a motorcycle, because of the riding position, shifting one's balance is not quite as easy as on a push bike. The lack of significant rotating mass in the engine is irrelevant to low speed stability. Clearly the more massive construction of a motorcycle and the much higher speeds that can be attained, mean that the gyroscopic forces from wheels, tyres etc. can be much greater than with a pedal bicycle and may become significant.
PS Since pistons reciprocate and do not rotate, they therefore cannot contribute any genuine gyroscopic forces.
Note FYI, AFAIK, the fastest unassisted solo pedal bicycle [fully faired] was rider Sam Whittingham, October 5, 2002: 81 mph, (130km/h)!, on level ground measured over one mile. Clearly, most pedal bicycles are very significantly slower than this.
As for trials, i agree track stands are easy on a push bike (especially up hill) and do-able on mototrials bikes, but you compare the weight of a mototrials bike to my 900 and i think you'll find you can do what you like with body position, if you don't put your feet down you're gonna be on your arse.
its not as clear as i would like, but i was glad to find articles from a simple google search confirms my points:
http://motorcycles.suite101.com/article.cfm/low_speed_riding
hope this clears things up a bit, i ought to do a low speed control instructable :)
http://www.hobbycity.com/hobbycity/store/uh_listCategoriesAndProducts.asp?catname=Li%2DPoly+%28All+brands%29&idCategory=86&ParentCat=85
Hobbycity Online R/C Hobby Store : Li-Poly (All brands)
Great project, I always wondered how to control the high power,we had cushman electric pallet jacks with massive lead acid batteries. We tooled around the warehouse at crazy speeds just missing each other.....oh sorry.
anyway, keep us up to date about performance like mileage and battery longevity...........................bravo!
dont forget to vote in the burning questions round 4. read my entry's and if you like it vote for it..