How to build a "Flexi-Perch" Squirrel-proof birdfeeder for $10 or less

Step 13: Glue the baffles in place

Apply PVC glue to the outside of each baffle and force them into the pipe until the outside edge is flush with the pipe. Set the pipe aside to let the glue dry for an hour.

Comments

[Hanks]

This is a great idea for a feeder. Just an idea though, would it not be better to use the black UV resistant cable ties? The sun would not make these brittle. Or has someone already tried that? Also getting longer ones would allow you to feed it from 1 slot, through the feeder, and out the other slot - any excess could be trimmed off. You may not even need staples or screws to hold it in place. I plan on making one (or more), so I would appreciate feedback. Thanks. Hank.

[Hanks]

These are the cables ties I used - hope the pic uploads as planned. hank

[billr]

Hanks, the plain cable ties seem to last for several years, but I'm sure the UV-resistant ones would last longer. I like the idea of using longer ties, send us a photo and let us know how it works! - Bill

[Hanks]

Bill, Don't know if I can do as good a job of the photos as you did, but will try. An electrician friend is bringing me some of the 12 inch black cable ties today. Just a quick question - I purchased 1/2 inch fittings for the baffle, but the OD is about 3/4 inch. Why did you drill 1 inch holes in the tube? Or did you indeed use 3/4 inch fittings - they measure just over 1 inch OD? I now bought both sizes. Hope you don't mind my questions. Hank

[Hanks]

Bill, here is my first attempt at adding a pic. The fitting on the left is 1/2 inch, the one on the right is 3/4 inch. Note the OD of each. Would the smaller fittings (1/2 inch) still work with Black oil sunflower seeds?

[billr]

Hanks, I think you've found an error in this instructable. I just went and measured the fittings I use and they are indeed the 3/4 inch variety with a 1 inch external diameter. I think the 1/2 fittings might be a bit small. - Billr

[Hanks]

Bill, I used 2 of each size in the feeders I built - when I get them up, I will be able to judge which works better, and will post an update. Thanks again for your instructable - you did a great job.

[Hanks]

Bill, Hung up one feeder today. Chicadees were there within minutes. They do prefer the 3/4 inch fittings (openings) over the 1/2 inch ones. I may just try to drill out the 1/2 inch fittings and replace them with the larger ones. Hank

[billr]

That's a beautiful feeder, Hank! Can you tell me more about the the pvc hanger in the photo? Is it fixed in the ground or can you move it? It looks to me like it's got the right dimensions to keep the squirrels from easily getting at the feeder. I'd like to build one myself - can you provide some assembly instructions? - Bill

[Hanks]

Bill, Finally, here are some pictures and measurements of my hanger and the "foot" or base. Sorry for the delay, Bill. 1. I used 1/2 inch steel pipe for the hanger (about 3/4 inch OD), but will use 3/4 inch for the next one (it will be about 1 inch OD) - this one bends with a full feeder. 2. From the centreline of the horizontal pipe to the foot (base), it is 99 inches. 3. The horizontal piece with hook is 20 inches long (to centreline of vertical pipe). 4. The "foot" or base is made from 3/8 inch thick by 2 inch wide flatbar. The centre piece (or toe) is 12 inches long (8 inches to the vertical pipe in front, with 4 inches to the back). The two other "toes" are about 6 inches long at the centre (welded at an angle). 5. I welded a pointed 1/2 inch rod 7 inches long at the bottom (below the vertical pipe). I also welded some pointed 1/4 inch diameter rod, each 1 inch long toward the front of each "toe", and on the "heel" on the bottom, so it cannot swivel or turn once it is pushed into the ground - works well. So far these dimensions have worked well for me. Hope the pics upload as planned. Hank

[Hanks]

Bill, Hope this image upload worked. If it did, you will get the general idea of how tall it is. The feeder is 2 feet high plus 1 foot of rod above the feeder, where it has an eye to hook onto the hanger. I would guess that the bottom of the feeder is still 5 feet above the ground. You can see that even with using this 1/2 inch steel pipe as a feeder hanger, it will deflect slightly from the weight of the feeder full of black sunflower seeds. The original intention of building this hanger was to hang a hummingbird feeder where it would be quite sufficiently strong. This pic is the best I can do for now - you can't see the base at all, as it is still under the snow. Hank

[Hanks]

Thanks, Bill - but it was your great idea! I was out at the farm today (where the feeder is) and there were 4 different birds on it at the same time - a Chickadee, a Pine Siskin, a Redpoll, and a Pine Grosbeak! And no camera! The electrical ties I used held the Pine Grosbeak very well. 1. The hanger is not PVC - it is 1/2 inch steel pipe (painted). PVC would not be strong enough. I would use 3/4 inch pipe next time, and maybe a Tee instead of an elbow (for 2 feeders). I used cast elbows and fittings, then welded a hook to hang the feeder. 2. Yes, it is movable. The pipe is welded to a base in the shape of a bird's foot about 1 foot across (I need to measure it and take a pic when the snow is gone). I then have a steel rod (1/2 inch diameter) pointed on one end, and welded under the "foot", directly below the pipe. The rod might be 6 inches long. I can just lift it out of the ground and then step on the foot to push it in the ground at the new location. 3. I'm guessing it is about 8 feet high to the hook - no squirrels guaranteed! It sure is good to have it near some trees and shrubs though, so the birds feel safe and have a place for quick escape. I will be glad to send you a pic with measurements, come spring! Hank

[billr]

Hank, Thanks for the info! I definitely need to make one of these - maybe you could write an Instructable for it? - Bill

[Hanks]

I would maybe attempt that - I would have to follow your step-by-step method, which you did so well. However, I can't do it until spring is here in northern Alberta. I would have to pull it from the ground and take pics and measurements. The base is the most work - I used materials that I had on hand or obtained where the price was right. Making the base to resemble a bird's foot was very time consuming. Just an FYI, I plan on making my next base using some steel horse shoes - the kind for the game, because I have 3 that I got for a dollar at an auction. I would place them together with the open side facing out, and then weld. More later Hank

[Frmeyers]

Frmeyers says: Great ible and follow-up discussion. Thanks guys! I have been battling my bushy tailed tree rats for years. So far, they have been winning. YIKES! Another suggestion for the vertical portion of the hanging post: I think if you use 3/4 inch steel pipe, you can use rebar as the stabilizer. This would allow the hanger to be moved, if desired. Just a thought. I made a vertical trellis for one of my raised beds using this combination. It was very easy to pound the three foot length of rebar two feet into the earth then simply slide the pipe over the remaining 12 inches. Originally I tried using PVC and found it too flimsy too. Basically, it ended up as a U shaped frame ( two vertical "posts", stabilized with rebar and with a horizontal steel pipe cross piece at the top). Since I knew I would be disassembling the frame, I connected the vertical and horizontal pipes with 90 degree PVC elbows. (No welding required!) I used nylon netting attached to the frame with nylon ties. Now my vining plants (gourds, squash, watermelons, etc.) grow vertically, getting a lot more sunshine while saving ground space, too. Unfortunately, I did not take any photographs during assembly. I will when I make the next one!

[Frmeyers]

Frmeyers says: Great ible and follow-up discussion. Thanks guys! I have been battling my bushy tailed tree rats for years. So far, they have been winning. YIKES! Another suggestion for the vertical portion of the hanging post: I think if you use 3/4 inch steel pipe, you can use rebar as the stabilizer. This would allow the hanger to be moved, if desired. Just a thought. I made a vertical trellis for one of my raised beds using this combination. It was very easy to pound the three foot length of rebar two feet into the earth then simply slide the pipe over the remaining 12 inches of rebar. Originally I tried using PVC and found it too flimsy too. Basically, it ended up as a U shaped frame ( two vertical "posts", stabilized with rebar and with a horizontal steel pipe cross piece at the top. Since I knew I would be disassembling the frame, I connected the vertical and horizontal pipes with 90 degree PVC elbows. (No welding required!) I used nylon netting attached to the frame with nylon ties. Now my vining plants (gourds, squash, watermelons, etc.) grow vertically, getting a lot more sunshine while saving ground space, too. Unfortunately, I did not take photos during the assembly. SIGH... Frank