Principle components (Click links for product info):
$35 PS3 Eye Camera (Recommended but any decent webcam will work)
$20 IR bandpass filter
$200 5-meter dimmable IR LED Strip
$1000 Any recent/decent computer (PC/MAC)
$1000 Any projector >2000 lumens (NEC NP410W)
$40 Front surface mirror
$80 Abrasion resistant acrylic sheet (23" x 35" x 0.236")
$130 Rear projection acrylic sheet (23" x 35" x 0.118")
$145 EndLighten acrylic sheet (23" x 35" x 0.394")
Total: ~$2500
Software (Click links for downloads):
$free CCV (Used to turn images into blobs)
$free CL-Eye Platform Driver (For PS3 Eye camera)
$free Multi-Touch Vista (Optional Multi-Touch TUIO driver for Windows integration)
$? Windows 7 (Recommended)
Written by Justin Klaassen, Duke University B.S.E. 2012
Sponsored by the Duke Library
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I suggest just set up the camera, point it to a wall with an area marked that is the size of the screen desired marked on the wall. Once you can see all edges of the desired screen clearly, you are the 'right' distance away.
Now measure the distance from the camera to the screen. This is the total distance the camera needs to be.
Use the same way to set up the distance for the projector. It needs to project a clear image over all the usable parts of the display screen. Again measure the total distance from the lens to the screen.
Now you have the right distance for both the projector and camera away from the screen (or top).
I have an idea...
On the website posted for the endlighten acrylic
I found three options:
ACRYLITE® Exotic Edge
Green 6F22 GT
ACRYLITE® EndLighten T
Colorless 0F11 L
ACRYLITE® EndLighten
Colorless 0M02 XL (cast acrylic)
Which one is better or which one is the one that works? The higher the transmission they have the better?
What is the front surface mirror for?
What is the order in which you place the layers?
Did you put the LEDs on all four sides of the EndLighten Acrylic?
From what I understand the Endlighten Acrylic is placed at the bottom. Then the rear projection acrylic, and then the abrasion resistant acrylic. (Also the abrasion resistant acrylic is to protect the other layers from use right? This would be the layer I would touch?). After this I dont know where the surface mirror goes or what is for.
Thank you very much for all your help and this is by far one of the best instructables or instructions for that matter in building a multitouch table.
It's "High-End" and I can play every single game without lags in Full HD Resolution.
Oh and I uild one time a PC for a friend, it was around 550€ and can to play every game in full hd without any lags.
Just sayin'...
I made the table, it's all working, im having problems only with win 7 multitouch driver. I installed it, it's ok, but when i unable my mouse the red point are not moving on the screen, it's stuck. I reinstalled the driver several times but im not getting any result.
could someone help me?
Excellent info thus far, by the way.
So why don't just use for exemple a Microsoft Lifecam which you can get for 15€?
A "HD" wecam it is then (for best accuracy) :)
It's ot too big but big enough to store the pc in it so it has only the power cable going out :)
This would be a really great way for stores to get the attention of the people passing by.
My question is, won't this shift cause the camera to be out of focus?
I am building a multi-touch table and it seems like you have somehow figured out one of the problems we are having. How is it that you are only using one front surface mirror? shouldn't the image be flipped, like if you look at text in a mirror? Do you have software to flip it when it's sent to the projector so when it hits the surface, it is "normal"? Sorry for all the questions but this would save my club a whole lot of time and frustration trying to angle two mirrors at just the right angle, as well as math trying to figure out how high etc. the mirrors need to be so we have the right projection length.