After seeing hundreds of great instructables on the site around USB keys, USB hubs, old school game controller reworkings, etc - I also decided to join in and have a go at converting my all time favourite controller from the NES into a useful device that I could use at both home and work for many different purposes and tasks, and all without drawing too many 'odd bod' stares...
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Signing UpStep 1: Items needed for this instructable...
No need for masses of pictures with regards this step - this is just a simple list of the items needed to complete the instructable (which aren't numerous):
1). Suitable controller - by this, I mean a controller that will have the correct internal dimensions to support the following parts based on what you are able to purchase and want to fit within it. For my instructable, I chose the NES controller which, when opened and gutted to some degree provided enough (sensible square/box like) dimensions to ensure my USB hub could be located within its footprint.
2). The USB hub - many of these are available currently on eBay and from various electrical stores. For my build I used a Technika USB 2.0 hub as it is a very small, slimline 4 port unit with external power supply provided which fitted well within the halves of the controller I offered it up to.
3). USB keys - depending on the controller chosen and the hub implemented, you can now utilised as many, few or as diverse keys as you wish to provide the kind of utility you wish from your device. Originally I planned on incorporating my Bluetooth dongle within the unit, but after finding I needed it elsewhere more regularly - I chose to install two standard USB keys instead for application installation and data storage purposes only. The first was a standard 4Gb Sandisk key which I would use for my applications storage, whilst the other, an 8Gb Sandisk Cruzer Micro key would provide the necessary space for data, etc.
4). USB Power Lead - came as standard with the original hub purchase.
The image attached shows the hub, minus both side of its cover to reduce its overall thickness so as to fit readily within the controller, and the two keys occupying one side of the hub, as I decided to only use two ports - mainly because of my wish to retain certain aspects of the case, such that it remain authentic looking and not too 'hacked', therefore all sides apart from the power socket remain untouched.
5). Plasticised card - mainly to fill out the space within the controller and used directly to cushion the hub in place to remove jolting and rattling from the unit. One sheet of A4 is more than sufficient and as it can be rolled and safely folded, can be used in a multitude of ways.
6). Craft knife and junior saw - both useful for trimming down internal parts from the controller to save space and also to enlarge the original cord hole for expansion so that the USB power cord can be used. The saw is particularly useful in separating the movement dial and the craft knife is essential for removing three of the screw columns (locking pins) within the controller.
7). Screwdriver - you will also need a small Philips screwdriver to take apart and reassemble the unit once done.
8). OPTIONAL - Superglue (depending on how well the build goes, and how you do with retaining the screws and columns to locate them within, this may or may not become a necessity - if you go slow and careful - this might not be required ;-)
1). Suitable controller - by this, I mean a controller that will have the correct internal dimensions to support the following parts based on what you are able to purchase and want to fit within it. For my instructable, I chose the NES controller which, when opened and gutted to some degree provided enough (sensible square/box like) dimensions to ensure my USB hub could be located within its footprint.
2). The USB hub - many of these are available currently on eBay and from various electrical stores. For my build I used a Technika USB 2.0 hub as it is a very small, slimline 4 port unit with external power supply provided which fitted well within the halves of the controller I offered it up to.
3). USB keys - depending on the controller chosen and the hub implemented, you can now utilised as many, few or as diverse keys as you wish to provide the kind of utility you wish from your device. Originally I planned on incorporating my Bluetooth dongle within the unit, but after finding I needed it elsewhere more regularly - I chose to install two standard USB keys instead for application installation and data storage purposes only. The first was a standard 4Gb Sandisk key which I would use for my applications storage, whilst the other, an 8Gb Sandisk Cruzer Micro key would provide the necessary space for data, etc.
4). USB Power Lead - came as standard with the original hub purchase.
The image attached shows the hub, minus both side of its cover to reduce its overall thickness so as to fit readily within the controller, and the two keys occupying one side of the hub, as I decided to only use two ports - mainly because of my wish to retain certain aspects of the case, such that it remain authentic looking and not too 'hacked', therefore all sides apart from the power socket remain untouched.
5). Plasticised card - mainly to fill out the space within the controller and used directly to cushion the hub in place to remove jolting and rattling from the unit. One sheet of A4 is more than sufficient and as it can be rolled and safely folded, can be used in a multitude of ways.
6). Craft knife and junior saw - both useful for trimming down internal parts from the controller to save space and also to enlarge the original cord hole for expansion so that the USB power cord can be used. The saw is particularly useful in separating the movement dial and the craft knife is essential for removing three of the screw columns (locking pins) within the controller.
7). Screwdriver - you will also need a small Philips screwdriver to take apart and reassemble the unit once done.
8). OPTIONAL - Superglue (depending on how well the build goes, and how you do with retaining the screws and columns to locate them within, this may or may not become a necessity - if you go slow and careful - this might not be required ;-)
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I used the same USB hub as you (£6.99 from Ebay), a Corsair Voyager USB key (16GB) and some other old USB key I had lying around (2GB). Honestly, the Corsair key is a bit too big for the NES controller case. It's rubberised, so squashable, but probably about 1-2mm too wide. However, it does fit with a push.
I completely removed the casing of the hub. Because the key is so tight it removes the need for almost any pading. I added just a little beneath the hub to stop it from moving. By removing all of the USB hub case I managed to retain 5 of the 6 case screws.
I don't think I did as good a job as you, but it works, that's the main thing!
http://yfrog.com/h5z87cj
I think I'll make a 4-port NES controller USB hub next.
Thanks again,
Steve
Rory
Rory
Recently however I did replace the second data key with the dongle to see how well it would work and whether the additional 'casing' from the controller would restrict the dongle's range at all; and the good news is that I saw little if any interference/restriction of range - so that may well stay in there for some time now!!
Al