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Step 6Pinout the Console Cable
Now we need to find out what wires in the console cable do what. Once again, we need information about the console cable from the appropriate .H file.
If you are using an extension cable, cut the extra connector off as far from the end that plugs into the console as possible. If you are using a sacrifice controller, cut the cable as close to the game pad as possible. In either case, we can as much cable length as we can get.
Remove some cable insulation from the now-exposed end. DO NOT REMOVE TOO MUCH. You want to remove about 1" of cable insulation; enough to make sure you can solder any of the wires to any of the DB-15 pins, and leave the wires short enough that the pull-stop on the D-Sub hood is grabbing onto the thick cable insulation.
We are looking for the individual wires that make up the cable, so we can identify what each does. In our SNES example, there are only five wires actually used by the controller, and only five wires in the cable.
Each wire should be a different color. We cannot trust the wire's color to tell us anything for certain about their function, even between otherwise identical padds. We must test them against the pinout in the .H file. For this, we need a multimeter/continuity tester.
For each wire in your cable, you need to know which pin on the console connector it goes to. The SNES was a little difficult because the contacts are far inside the connector. The picture below shows me using a bare piece of wire held by a probe hook. The contact inside the connector would touch the bare wire, which touched the hook. When the other probe touched the correct wire on the other end of the cable, I would know because the resistance would drop to almost nothing. This needs to be repeated for each pin.
The picture below shows the index card I used to write down the results. I copied the pinout and pin descriptions from the .H file. When I found a matching pin and wire combination, I would write down the wire's color next to the pin.
Now that we know what wire is what, we can begin connecting them to the UPCB plug.
________ |1234|567) --------- Pin Description 1 VCC 2 Clock 3 Latch 4 Data 5 N/C 6 N/C 7 GND
If you are using an extension cable, cut the extra connector off as far from the end that plugs into the console as possible. If you are using a sacrifice controller, cut the cable as close to the game pad as possible. In either case, we can as much cable length as we can get.
Remove some cable insulation from the now-exposed end. DO NOT REMOVE TOO MUCH. You want to remove about 1" of cable insulation; enough to make sure you can solder any of the wires to any of the DB-15 pins, and leave the wires short enough that the pull-stop on the D-Sub hood is grabbing onto the thick cable insulation.
We are looking for the individual wires that make up the cable, so we can identify what each does. In our SNES example, there are only five wires actually used by the controller, and only five wires in the cable.
Each wire should be a different color. We cannot trust the wire's color to tell us anything for certain about their function, even between otherwise identical padds. We must test them against the pinout in the .H file. For this, we need a multimeter/continuity tester.
For each wire in your cable, you need to know which pin on the console connector it goes to. The SNES was a little difficult because the contacts are far inside the connector. The picture below shows me using a bare piece of wire held by a probe hook. The contact inside the connector would touch the bare wire, which touched the hook. When the other probe touched the correct wire on the other end of the cable, I would know because the resistance would drop to almost nothing. This needs to be repeated for each pin.
The picture below shows the index card I used to write down the results. I copied the pinout and pin descriptions from the .H file. When I found a matching pin and wire combination, I would write down the wire's color next to the pin.
Now that we know what wire is what, we can begin connecting them to the UPCB plug.
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